Flyinfool

Careful, next she will be on your bike and you will get the 650......

I always fart in the chow line. More for me to eat and I get to the front of the line quicker.......

More like once you get the stator mounting bolts out it is an easy fix.....

Glad you got them back on their way. What is withe the rash of charging issues this year. It seems like there is a couple every week.

I tried my EZ pass on the inside of the trunk lid, it hit about 1 out of 3 times. I now just put it into a Ziploc baggy and toss it up on the dash. It always hits from there. Unless the bike is upside down it ain't going anywhere. I just have to remember to hide it when I make my many "gas" stops.

It is sounding more and more like my trip to MD last year. Started with barley noticeable hiccups and by the time I was half way home it was flat out shutting down for minutes at a time. By the time I got home I had jumper wires and hot wires all over the place trying to keep the bike alive till I got home. The volt meter dropping from 13.5 to 12 during these hiccups may also mean that you have an intermittent connection somewhere in the charging circuit. Are you getting these voltages from the in dash voltmeter or do you have a separate meter installed. 13.5 is still a little on the low side. 14.0 is better.

Well bones and skin heal pretty good. Bike parts do not heal, it only makes sense to pick the bike up first........

I hate brakes right now........ Glad you figured it out. Even gladder that you shared with us......

My bike is an 88 and does have the 14mm master. With all of the pitting inside it might be closer to 15mm in places now.

NNOOOOOOooooooo.......... NO practice allowed!! :scared: :scared: :scared:

Cool, Keep me informed and let me know how much to send you.

Another tool that can be used to help find an intermittent is to pick up a couple of 12 LEDs from Radio Shack . You can use these to connect to various parts of the circuits to see which LED blinks at the moment of the hiccup. Mount these where they are easy to see in your peripheral vision while riding, just tape them in place since they are only for diagnostic purposes. Start with one on the red/white wire where it goes into the TCI. Pos wire of LED to the Red/white wire and neg lead to ground. This one should be ON all of the time when the bike is running. if it blinks OFF during a hiccup then you now the problem is on this circuit Put a second on the black/white wire that goes to the TCI. Positive wire of LED to +12V, neg wire of LED to the Black/white wire. This one will be OFF while riding. It will come on when safety circuits are activated like the side stand being down. If this LED blinks ON during a hiccup then you know that the issue is in this circuit.

Happy to help! Be careful what you ask for on this site. You might just get an answer..... possibly even a good one.....

Since the tach is dropping but the bike speed is not dropping that means that you are no longer sending a signal to the #2 cylinder and most likely also not the rest of them. The tach gets its signal from the wire that goes to the #2 coil. since the tach is dropping but not the motor speed, that means that the #2 coil is not getting a signal. That means it is not a coil, plug wires or plugs type of issue. In addition to what Dingy said, also clean the contacts in the kill switch. A weak or intermittent switch contact can also cause this. Unfortunately there are a lot of things that can cause your hiccups, and since it is intermittent and for very short times at that, testing is not likely to find it. It is going to be a try something and take a test ride type of solution.

At the top of your screen there is a "Venture History" link. Lots of info there. http://www.venturerider.org/modules.php?name=history

It seems everyones bike will lay down for a nap at some point in time. When that time comes, I will be able to figure out what to do fast enough to take care of me. My question is what should I coach my passenger to do when that time comes. I am not talking about a moving crash, just about the one where you stop and your foot hits a hole or a slick spot or loose gravel or wet grass type of thing. I already tell her to NEVER stick her foot out to try to stop the bike from falling, If it has already gone far enough that her foot reaches the ground and I have not yet caught it then she will only break her leg trying to stop 1000+ lbs. Is it safer for the passenger to just remain still and seated and let the crash bars do their thing? Or is it better to have the passenger try to bail off and get out of the way? (She is not real agile)

Nice bike. She definitely looks pleased. Will she wear high heels so that her feet will reach the ground while riding?

Looking for a good front master cylinder. I put on a delink kit and was unable to get a good lever action. I can easily pull the lever till it contacts the grip and only have a fairly good front brake action The front brake was better when I was only using one side. I have used every bleading trick ever written in this website and even some that were never written, but it still is not right. I took my master apart to do a rebuild and the bore is very pitted. So rather than spend $25 on a 14mm hone to try to clean it up (some of the pits are pretty deep) which still may not work. I am looking for a good front master to buy. I know there are a few people parting out bikes. I am also watching a couple on flea bay. But I hate to buy one from a stranger on ebay, pay the shipping, and find out the bore is just as bad as what I have. I STILL HAVE LAST YEARS GAS IN THE BIKE!!!

When it hiccups, what does the tach do? Does the tack instantly drop to zero, or does it continue showing engine rpm as your speed bleeds off and the bike momentum is keeping the engine turning over?

Here is the whole ste by step process for testing a no charge condition. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297

:sign yeah that: Those would be my first two guesses. Does it crank over? Where are you at?

With LEDs you often get what you pay for. I have read may posts where people bought ebay LEDs and swore off LED as no good. I bought all of mine from www.SuperBrightLEDs.com, yes it was a lot more expensive, But I could not be happier with the end results. A place like SuperBrightLEDs has real engineers on staff to be able to answer questions to help you get what you want. The only thing that I don't like about the LEDs is the neutral indicator. Because incandecents have to heat the filament to around 5,000 degrees F to make light there is a slight delay between when power is applied and when the bulb lights. same with turning off you can see the bulb dim to off. LEDs are instant on and instant off. So on the neutral indicator with the LED you will see it flash for a split second every time you shift from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st gears. because this happens so fast the incandecent bulb does not have time to get up to temperature s you to not see the flash. I am working on an idea to fix this....... WARNING semi technical crap below..... The isssue with LEDs that are dimable or not is the fact that LEDs actually run on 2 to 4 VDC depending on the color. different colors are different voltages. When they make the 12V LEDs they build in the circuit to drop the voltage to what the LED needs. It is that circuit that determines if they are easily dimable or not. Some use a simple resistor to drop the voltage, these are dimable. Some use a voltage regulator, these will not dim easily because the regulator will maintain the LED voltage regardless of the input voltage, provided the input voltage is still above the regulated voltage, that is why these do not dim well. There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. The regulator type will still dim if your dimmer circuit can drop the voltage down to or less than the LEDs required voltage. You could add a resistor to your dimmer circuit to give the dimmer more range to be able to dim the LEDs.

Does that mean that these were from ebay?

Cool, Glad you are on the way. Did you find the gremlin yet?

Good thing you looked, if any one of those 8 diodes fail, the TCI is junk. As I mentioned, I completely sealed my TCI including the "vent" holes so that water should never get inside again. That was 3 years ago.