Flyinfool

Looking for a good front master cylinder. I put on a delink kit and was unable to get a good lever action. I can easily pull the lever till it contacts the grip and only have a fairly good front brake action The front brake was better when I was only using one side. I have used every bleading trick ever written in this website and even some that were never written, but it still is not right. I took my master apart to do a rebuild and the bore is very pitted. So rather than spend $25 on a 14mm hone to try to clean it up (some of the pits are pretty deep) which still may not work. I am looking for a good front master to buy. I know there are a few people parting out bikes. I am also watching a couple on flea bay. But I hate to buy one from a stranger on ebay, pay the shipping, and find out the bore is just as bad as what I have. I STILL HAVE LAST YEARS GAS IN THE BIKE!!!

When it hiccups, what does the tach do? Does the tack instantly drop to zero, or does it continue showing engine rpm as your speed bleeds off and the bike momentum is keeping the engine turning over?

Here is the whole ste by step process for testing a no charge condition. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297

:sign yeah that: Those would be my first two guesses. Does it crank over? Where are you at?

With LEDs you often get what you pay for. I have read may posts where people bought ebay LEDs and swore off LED as no good. I bought all of mine from www.SuperBrightLEDs.com, yes it was a lot more expensive, But I could not be happier with the end results. A place like SuperBrightLEDs has real engineers on staff to be able to answer questions to help you get what you want. The only thing that I don't like about the LEDs is the neutral indicator. Because incandecents have to heat the filament to around 5,000 degrees F to make light there is a slight delay between when power is applied and when the bulb lights. same with turning off you can see the bulb dim to off. LEDs are instant on and instant off. So on the neutral indicator with the LED you will see it flash for a split second every time you shift from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st gears. because this happens so fast the incandecent bulb does not have time to get up to temperature s you to not see the flash. I am working on an idea to fix this....... WARNING semi technical crap below..... The isssue with LEDs that are dimable or not is the fact that LEDs actually run on 2 to 4 VDC depending on the color. different colors are different voltages. When they make the 12V LEDs they build in the circuit to drop the voltage to what the LED needs. It is that circuit that determines if they are easily dimable or not. Some use a simple resistor to drop the voltage, these are dimable. Some use a voltage regulator, these will not dim easily because the regulator will maintain the LED voltage regardless of the input voltage, provided the input voltage is still above the regulated voltage, that is why these do not dim well. There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. The regulator type will still dim if your dimmer circuit can drop the voltage down to or less than the LEDs required voltage. You could add a resistor to your dimmer circuit to give the dimmer more range to be able to dim the LEDs.

Does that mean that these were from ebay?

Cool, Glad you are on the way. Did you find the gremlin yet?

Good thing you looked, if any one of those 8 diodes fail, the TCI is junk. As I mentioned, I completely sealed my TCI including the "vent" holes so that water should never get inside again. That was 3 years ago.

So any luck getting back on the road?

Did you match LED color to lens color? IE amber LED for turn signals, Green for Neutral, Blue for High beam. White for everything else. Some LEDs are not dimable due to their internal construction, some are.

You can get LEDs in different brightnesses. I got the brightest available for the dash illumination and they will dim some. I kept the very bright ones for all of the indicators so that they are more visible in bright daylight. The only exception is the high beam indicator that I went with a less bright LED so that it was not uncomfortable at night. the rest of them are really not on very often at night for the brightness to be an issue.

The first one would go to a condenser o filter alternator noise in the sound system. the second one is power, memory backup and ground connection to power the factory radio. Neither of these are used on a standard but would be used on a royal. That is my best guess anyhow.

Well I ended up using the engine hoist to lean it gently. And I broke nothing!

I realize that I am old, and the wolves are after me. But I still ain't old enough for a 2nd gen. I am planning to send my seat in to the butt butler this fall. Everyone's butt has been very happy with his work.

If desperation kicks in I do have a new HO stator and HO RR that I bought for my '88 but have not got around to installing yet. I do not know if they will fit an 84 or not. But I am 300+ miles away in Milwaukee. About a mile north of you is a Firestone auto service, Don't know if they would even look at a bike. If yo go north to Morton Ave which is about 2 miles. There is a NAPA about a half mile east on Morton or a choice of Advance Auto, Carquest and O'Reillys in a clump about a mile west on Morton, and a Rexx Battery specialist another 2 blocks north on Main St. A couple of things you can check without tools. Find the 3 white wires that come up from the Stator check the connector for corrosion or signs of heat indicating a bad connection. Follow those wires to the RR. Check the connector on the other side of the RR for corrosion of signs of heat. If you are lucky one of these connectors will have a bad contact that you can just clean up and be back on your way.

Cool:thumbsup:

No beer, Unless I have preplanned there is never beer in my house. That is why it has to be your beer and your bike. I'll supply the video camera and you tube connection.

Of more importance since you have it out and opened up is the condition of the 8 diodes on the other side of the board. If these fail the board is no longer repairable since they will take out a proprietary Yamaha chip. These diodes do fail with age. When I did mine I cut the cover near the connectors since the board is easily damaged trying to unsolder and remove the connectors. When I put mine back together I sealed it up with black RTV. including the drain holes that are where the water gets in in the first place. I load the connectors up with dielectric grease to make sure no water can get in there. I put my TCI in the left faring where it stays drier.

Try this one http://www.wimp.com/everythingsolar/

The bird is kind of small, but with enough gravy and smashed taters......... And she can obviously be trained for all kinds of tricks...... even by a bird brain....

If you wish to ride YOUR bike down my basement steps I will be glad to hold the video camera and your beer for you. I've never been a good member of the fun police.

Check the vent on the gas tank, they have been known to get plugged up and the vacuum that is created will cause fuel starvation. When you open the tank do you hear ais woosh? That would be the singn that the vent is plugged. It is possible that the fuel pup is bad or weak. When you first turn on the key you should hear it clicking for a couple seconds. if the tank is full it can still run without the pump working, but at around a half tank the head pressure gets to low to keep supplying fuel. Check the fuel filter.

The bird seems to have her well trained.......

I guess it will be plan 2 then. Just to be safe. There is no issue with the shop crane being able to lift the bike, its rated 4000 lbs. The only issue is dragging the shop crane up and down the basement steps. I'm old, and the wolves are after me..... I am thinking one strap around the triple tree and the other around the grab rails NO I am not riding the bike down the basement steps to get it closer to the crane.....