Flyinfool

I am at the moment leaning toward doing it myself. If I can suddenly come up with the funds, I'll let someone else do it. I do have some suc......... Volunteers to help me with the digging.

Hey Puc, grab that receiver and take a quick swim across the pond, (it's not that cold, trust me ) I just happen to know someone with a milling machine hiding in the basement, get those holes good to 4 decimal places.

Unless you really burned the clutch while it was slipping it will be just fine after another oil change. You do not necessarily need another new filter but I would take the current new filter out to drain that oil and maybe even wash and dry the filter and reuse it. I would also remove the bottom screw of the middle gear cover and put the bike on the side stand to drain the contaminated oil out of the transmission. Even though you changed the oil there is still nearly a quart of the lucas contaminated oil still in there, the next oil change will have it cleared out.

Before you take it all apart, check to be sure the caliper ends of the VMax hoses are correct for you Venture calipers. I thought they pointed in different directions so need different hose ends?

When applying the glass cloth you do not need to sand it down first, just clean it with some alcohol to remove any grease or oil. The solvents in the ABS cement will dissolve the surface of the part anyhow so the sanding will not matter. IF you are using an epoxy glue then you do need to sand to give some tooth for the glue to try to hold on to. As far as flexibility, because the glass cloth is fully embedded in ABS it will remain just as flexible as the rest of the ABS. It is when glass is embedded in something hard like epoxy or polyester resin which cures hard that the result will be brittle. When I did my front bumper using the glass cloth and ABS cement it was loaded with cracks, it was like putting a jigsaw puzzle back together the entire inside of that fender was coated with glass cloth and ABS cement. after the repair the fender was still just as flexible and you could not see any of the cracks in the paint unless you looked really close. It never did crack again either.

I used @skydoc_17s delinking kit. It has all of the Stainless lines you need along with instructions.

Speaking of race guns. I used to do a lot of bowling pin shoots with a shotgun (and many other guns). With my 11-87 I got to the point that I was waiting for the next round to finish chambering so I could shoot again. this was limiting me to 5 pins in 2.6 seconds. I did some playing with changing out springs and going to titanium parts and have gotten it down to 2.3 seconds. I still need to find ways to get the gun faster, I am still waiting for the gun. But it sure is fun messing with stuff. I do still use this same gun for birds, small game and deer hunting. Even though I did all the work to get it faster it will still function perfectly with the lightest trap loads up to the heaviest 3" magnum loads.

You have an electrical problem that is affecting the #2 cylinder. The tach is driven from the primary side of the #2 coil. The tach going to zero is the clue as to where to start. It means that there is no signal to the #2 wiring.

The 1st gen does not have an oil pressure switch. It does have an oil level switch which should be off if there is oil in the bike. So that one is not an issue either. This light can occasionally lite up under hard acceleration as all of the oil sloshes to the rear of the engine and the float that is near the front will show a low oil level. the oil pickup is toward the rear so this does NOT indicate a problem. There is no charge indicator light either, there is a battery electrolyte level light. Many 1st gens have that bypassed because many new batteries do not have the extra hole to put the sensor in. Now all your problems are gone.........

Are you trying to say my head might be full of **it?

Since it is a structural repair that you are doing. My recommendation changes. For structural repairs, I use fiberglass cloth cut to cover about an inch all the way around the damage. I then coat the area with ABS pipe cement (available at any hardware store or other place that sells plumbing supplies) and and flex the joint to work some of the cement into the crack, while it is still wet I press in the glass cloth and then coat the glass cloth with more cement to be sure that it is fully saturated. This makes a repair that is much stronger than the original plastic. The pipe cement is dissolving the surface of your ABS part so the glass cloth will now be a permanent part of the plastic. It broke there once so it was obviously not strong enough, now it is stronger. Even if you already did the liquid ABS repair you can still use this method to reinforce the area. Earlier it was mentioned to use super glue. There are a few plastic safe versions of super glue, they are expensive and hard to find. Most "Superglue" will dramatically weaken the plastic. Super glue is known as a cyanoacrylate adhesive. Cyanoacrylate it the ingredient in Loctite that destroys ABS. It causes the ABS to crystallize.

I wonder how many people are bidding thinking that they are bidding on a gun when they are actually only bidding on the empty box and the owners manual. Owners manuals are available free from any manufacturer. There is a law that says so.

Instead of trying to make the ABS into a powder, just dissolve it in Acetone and now you have liquid ABS that can be flowed into a crack to weld it back together. You can add more ABS to get the consistency you want. when you use it in the repair the acetone in the mix will melt into the surfaces of the crack and the dissolved ABS will fill small gaps. when it dries it is back to one homogeneous part. If you tell us what specifically you are working on we may have more and better ideas.

Makes perfect sense. It is very well documented that any changes to the "system" will require other changes to compensate, because you just messed things up. As mentioned Cosmetic preferences can trump almost anything. There are a lot of people that will gladly give up performance for what looks good to them. Really the looks are ONLY important to the owner. It does not matter what anyone else thinks of it. And then there are those like me that wanted to ditch the CV carbs altogether and go with EFI on my Venture. The opening up the airflow would make all the sense in the world. But alas I have sold the Venture so that project has come to a screeching halt. But then as I was making it it would also look cool to ME.

I was going to guess a steam loco control panel before I scrolled down.

Well that was last weeks guesstimate of the weather. It has since been updated. We are now in the middle of a blizzard with 13 inches of fresh snow down, and up to 6 more by the time it ends tonight. Then by Wednesday they are now expecting to break multiple records, they are expecting the lowest high temp of the day of -12°F will fall as will the lowest temp ever of -26°F to also fall. and just for fun the wind chill is now expected to hit -55°F. Of course as soon as I am done enjoying all of this I will send it on to the east for others to also enjoy. For the snow to actually be called a blizzard it must be more than 35MPH wind with visibility of less than 1/4 mile. BUT I will take this over 90+°F any day. Our cold kills a lot less people than does the heat down south.

Cool, Glad I could help, Didn't realize that I headed you on a 7 year quest........

I always share. When I have had enough of the weather here, I send it off to the East.

We will know by mid of next week. We are looking to break the record for the all time lowest temp ever. The record is currently at -26°F. And just for fun the wind chill is expected to hit -50. AND just for a bit more fun toss in 10 inches of fresh snow.

I also bought 3 SKS rifles. I found out there are 2 versions, one has a pinned in place barrel and the other has a threaded in barrel. I heard the the pinned barrel is very hard to impossible to get to shoot good. 2 of my 3 were threaded barrels. All the rest of the parts were interchangeable. Between the 3 and a bit of customizing, I was able to get one to shoot sub MOA, but only with reloads. Recently a buddy of mine found four 50 cal ammo cans, in a hidden compartment in his basement, full of an unknown brand of 7.62x39, He gave them to me for proper disposal.

@cowpuc I got your spot in the corner of the penalty box all warmed up....... I guess I been playing out in the shed to much...... Wait till you what is coming next week..... Duey seems to be turning into a Master

WOW better late than never..... I tried to get you an excuse to do more test rides.

Back once upon a time I had a solar hot water heater system. The solar system had an 80 gallon tank that during the summer would heat that 80 gallons up to 180°F. The hot water coming out of the solar tank went to the cold water input of my gas hot water heater. During the summer with 180° water coming in the gas heater never lit up. This did not cause any issues whatsoever with the gas water heater. During the winter the solar system was only able to take the incoming water from high 30°s to low 40°s up to mid 50°s, not a lot but it was still that much less gas needed to bring the water up to 120°. The gas hat water heater did have a mixing valve on it so that it would mix cold and hot to get an output to the house of 120°. You would not want to send 180° water to your faucets. So with that said I do not see why your plan would not be safe. As to if your plan is practical will all depend on the cost of heating the water with gas vs electric. This cost differences will determine if you want the combined system or just a properly sized on demand heater or a properly sized tank system.

I am not worried about injuring myself, I am more that strong enough to handle the job. The only part that has me worried is the stamina part. With my current heart condition I do not have near the stamina that I had even 1 year ago. The digging and hauling the dirt and concrete out of the house and to the dump is the only hard part. IF I can do it right so that I can spread the digging and hauling out over a couple hours at a time, over several days, it will be fine. My key right now is to keep my heart rate under 100. If I can do that I can work safely all day. This just means taking a lot of rest brakes. My watch monitors my heart rate and warns me when I am getting close. I have learned that when the watch says take a break, DON'T ARGUE. This would assume that I can do all of the digging without breaking the clay pipe until I am ready to. This way the plumbing remains usable. Once the clay breaks then it will all need to be finished to a point that it is at least usable that day. If I should break the pipe while digging, I do not have to haul the dirt out right away, I can just leave a big pile in the basement for later, and just repair the pipe. Right now I am still not sure how I will proceed. OK so I am doing a lot of thinking out loud again here.

Well I thought so to until it came time to write the check. I am to cheap to pay that much for something i might be able to do myself.