Flyinfool

And while you have the starter out and opened up you can to the Dingy ground plate mod. The ground mod will help the hot start issue, as will switching to welding cable for the leads. The ultimate fix is still the 4 brush starter.

:sign yeah that: We seem to be chasing a moving target, as in an intermittent connection some where. Try hooking the volt meter up across the battery, set the engine to 3000, then start shaking and wiggling the wire harnesses along with some pulling on the wires at the connectors, to see if you can make the voltage change, or the engine miss. Whether it goes up or down don't matter at this point, it should not change no matter how much you massage the wires.

It is possible that the contacts are nice and clean but the crimp to the wire is corroded inside of the crimp. The easiest way to fix that would be to cut the connector out and solder red to red, black to black, brown to brown if you have a brown (some years do not have the brown wire, I don't remember which). Don't forget to slide on the heat shrink before soldering. Last year when I was chasing electrical gemlins, One of the things I found was a weak factory crimp. So it can happen.

I'm still scratching my head on that one. OK so at speed you have 14.8V at the RR, and 13.4 on the batt side. When you say the batt side do you mean at the battery, or at the battery side of the RR connector. IF this is at the battery side of the RR connector, you have found your bad connection. I have to think on this one.........

I was watching your vid again. I noticed that the battery indicator is lit on the computer monitor. I also noticed that sometimes it appears that the rpm jumps higher. an electrical dro ou should make the tach drop.

If you have a bad charging system and are with someone that has a bike with the same or very similar battery you can go forever swapping batteries between the 2 bikes. One bike runs them down and the other charges them.

I had 2 finished ones left that have been spoken for. I have several that are partly machined that I can finish up next week.

Thats better than the 12.4 battery voltage you had earlier. Check red to black on both sides of the plug, it should be the same both sides of plug. Check red to black both sides of plug at 3000 rpm. Check voltage of red at regulator to positive battery post. If you get a 0V reading try the 2V scale. Check voltage of black at regulator to negative battery post. If you get a 0V reading try the 2V scale. Did you ever check the main fuse? it has a fuseable link that is attached with 2 screws. Those connections have been known to get corroded or the screws loose.

Careful, next she will be on your bike and you will get the 650......

I always fart in the chow line. More for me to eat and I get to the front of the line quicker.......

More like once you get the stator mounting bolts out it is an easy fix.....

Glad you got them back on their way. What is withe the rash of charging issues this year. It seems like there is a couple every week.

I tried my EZ pass on the inside of the trunk lid, it hit about 1 out of 3 times. I now just put it into a Ziploc baggy and toss it up on the dash. It always hits from there. Unless the bike is upside down it ain't going anywhere. I just have to remember to hide it when I make my many "gas" stops.

It is sounding more and more like my trip to MD last year. Started with barley noticeable hiccups and by the time I was half way home it was flat out shutting down for minutes at a time. By the time I got home I had jumper wires and hot wires all over the place trying to keep the bike alive till I got home. The volt meter dropping from 13.5 to 12 during these hiccups may also mean that you have an intermittent connection somewhere in the charging circuit. Are you getting these voltages from the in dash voltmeter or do you have a separate meter installed. 13.5 is still a little on the low side. 14.0 is better.

Well bones and skin heal pretty good. Bike parts do not heal, it only makes sense to pick the bike up first........

I hate brakes right now........ Glad you figured it out. Even gladder that you shared with us......

My bike is an 88 and does have the 14mm master. With all of the pitting inside it might be closer to 15mm in places now.

NNOOOOOOooooooo.......... NO practice allowed!! :scared: :scared: :scared:

Cool, Keep me informed and let me know how much to send you.

Another tool that can be used to help find an intermittent is to pick up a couple of 12 LEDs from Radio Shack . You can use these to connect to various parts of the circuits to see which LED blinks at the moment of the hiccup. Mount these where they are easy to see in your peripheral vision while riding, just tape them in place since they are only for diagnostic purposes. Start with one on the red/white wire where it goes into the TCI. Pos wire of LED to the Red/white wire and neg lead to ground. This one should be ON all of the time when the bike is running. if it blinks OFF during a hiccup then you now the problem is on this circuit Put a second on the black/white wire that goes to the TCI. Positive wire of LED to +12V, neg wire of LED to the Black/white wire. This one will be OFF while riding. It will come on when safety circuits are activated like the side stand being down. If this LED blinks ON during a hiccup then you know that the issue is in this circuit.

Happy to help! Be careful what you ask for on this site. You might just get an answer..... possibly even a good one.....

Since the tach is dropping but the bike speed is not dropping that means that you are no longer sending a signal to the #2 cylinder and most likely also not the rest of them. The tach gets its signal from the wire that goes to the #2 coil. since the tach is dropping but not the motor speed, that means that the #2 coil is not getting a signal. That means it is not a coil, plug wires or plugs type of issue. In addition to what Dingy said, also clean the contacts in the kill switch. A weak or intermittent switch contact can also cause this. Unfortunately there are a lot of things that can cause your hiccups, and since it is intermittent and for very short times at that, testing is not likely to find it. It is going to be a try something and take a test ride type of solution.

At the top of your screen there is a "Venture History" link. Lots of info there. http://www.venturerider.org/modules.php?name=history

It seems everyones bike will lay down for a nap at some point in time. When that time comes, I will be able to figure out what to do fast enough to take care of me. My question is what should I coach my passenger to do when that time comes. I am not talking about a moving crash, just about the one where you stop and your foot hits a hole or a slick spot or loose gravel or wet grass type of thing. I already tell her to NEVER stick her foot out to try to stop the bike from falling, If it has already gone far enough that her foot reaches the ground and I have not yet caught it then she will only break her leg trying to stop 1000+ lbs. Is it safer for the passenger to just remain still and seated and let the crash bars do their thing? Or is it better to have the passenger try to bail off and get out of the way? (She is not real agile)

Nice bike. She definitely looks pleased. Will she wear high heels so that her feet will reach the ground while riding?