Flyinfool

I have seen some one jump into a loner car at the Stealership. The car was a stick and he had no clue. It was hilarious to watch.

:sign yeah that:What they all said. It takes an expensive meter to accurately measure the stator resistance. The best you can do is to verify that they all read the same and that there is no short to ground. The .4 ohms that you see when you put the leads together is a combination of the lead resistance and any calibration error inside of the meter, you need to subtract that .4 ohms from anything that you measure. If you look at your test probe wires, they have very thick insulation but the wire is very small AWG inside of there, the wire that the stator is wound with is a much heavier wire than your test leads. That is why its reading is lower than you expected, the heavier the wire the lower its resistance per foot. If you have 13.9 volts at 3000 rpm with everything on the bike turned on, then all is most likely just fine.

Hey MAMA The WI MD is this weekend in Viroqua WI. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=391&day=2014-6-28&c=1 There are a lot of great riding roads in the area and Orlin knows all the best ones. I will be leaving to head there Friday after work. I just last night finished making a big batch of Rum Balls. I have it on good authority that there will also be Apple Pie there.

FYI and FWIW The BBB gives Light Pros an "F" rating. http://www.bbb.org/west-florida/business-reviews/lighting-equipment-suppliers/light-pros-in-sarasota-fl-90142613

An I got a Grand Daughter just 3 months younger than you.

I used to get the sunglasses with the reader at the bottom. That was before I found out I am nearly blind in one eye and cant hear out of the other one.... I never knew that I could not see until the eye doc told me so. Now I just wear my trifocals all the time so I can see everything.

I would think you are still going nowhere. The axle is still going thru the final drive and the brake and swing arm on the other side and holding it all together.

I have seen when some one cut the cigarette lighter plug off the power cord and then used those wires to direct wire, THAT kind of a direct wire would be bad, VERY bad. There is no differnce in the power between using the proper Garmin direct power cord or the Garmin cigarette lighter adapter, they are both connected to the same 14V power source, they both have a regulator built in to drop the voltage down to the 5 VDC that the GPS wants to see.

I just ordered a cord made by Garmin for hard wiring into a 12-24V system. Yes it does contain a circuit to drop the voltage down to the 5V that a GPS wants to see. Not using a proper cord and sending 12 V into a GPS will let ALL of the magic blue smoke out, and we all know that electric stuff runs on that magic blue smoke, so don't let it leak out.

That looks like it would be right up ol Cowpucs alley for a day trip on Tweeks. But the waterfall might be interesting on a bike.

I went for a nice comfortable ride this weekend. It was 58°F in the morning when I left the house and the high for the day was 68°F. That makes for some really nice riding weather. Now it is our turn to pick on you southerners :rasberry: :stirthepot:

I read somewhere that the first gens under very hard acceleration can get the oil to slosh to the back of the engine causing the sender to momentarily show a low oil level. I never heard of a 2nd gen doing that but it might be possible. Just a WAG on my part.

With the 3 white connector unplugged from the RR, label the 3 wires 1, 2, 3. Set the meter for an AC volt scale of 200 or higher. Connect the meter from 1 to 2, then 2 to 3, then 1 to 3. You should see around 15-20 volts AC at idle and can see over 100 volts AC at speed. The actual voltage is not that critical, what is important is that all three readings are close to the same. I do not do the AC test by going to the black wire because a bad rectifier diode in the RR can influence the test result. In your case this is not likely since you did put in a new RR. But there is no guaranty that the new RR is 100% good either. Testing with the RR Disconnected from the stator guaranties that you are only testing the stator with no other influence. Testing thru the RR will tell you that you have A problem but not what the problem is.

The 55W bulbs will load the charging system more. I can only run my 55W driving lights on the highway when the engine is always at higher speed, In the city or stop and go traffic I am draining the battery. Your RSTD likely draws less power than my Venture so you may be OK. But I would still check it for piece of mind. As mentioned I would remove them from the headlight circuit and put them on their own circuit with a fuse, switch and relay.

The original connector has 2 red and 2 blacks because the proper size wire did not fit in the plug contacts. The 2 red connect together and the 2 blacks connect together between the RR and the battery. If you are going to run the RR wires direct to the battery, just make sure that you are not eliminating or bypassing the main fuse.

Never mind WHAT?

When you do put n Skydocs delink kit, you will be replacing every single brake line with new braided stainless lines. So any gunked up old lines will not matter.

The AC voltage test should be done withe the 3 white wires unplugged from the RR. Be careful here because the voltage should be high enough to really get your attention. When you did the ground test, were the 3 white wires unplugged from the RR. They should be or you can get a false reading to ground thru the RR. If you are seeing 001 from any of the white wires to ground with the connector unplugged, than you have a bad stator. the meter should show the same thing as when the leads are not connected to anything at all. Changing out the stator is not a difficult job to do. The only "hard" part is getting the 3 screws loose that hold the stator in place. Those 3 screws have blue loctite on them, You will need an impact driver with a #2 JIS bit to get them out with no damage.

Man I feel your frustration. Been there done that last summer. The starter is on the front of the engine about 8 inches up from the bottom. I can not help with where the chassis ground ( or many other electrical parts) is on your bike, I have a 1st gen. The first gen and 2nd gens have the same charging system so all of the tests apply to both models. That connector you mentioned with 3 white wires, is that the one that goes to the RR? If it is, did you run all of the stator AC voltage tests from that connector?

It did say that the bike was following a truck, the truck managed to swerve around the stopped car. It is possible that the truck used up some of the riders potential reaction time. But the bottom line is the bike was traveling at well over the speed limit. and even with braking was still well over the limit at the time of impact. Should the duck lover go to prison for this, I don't know. But I do NOT think she should get off Scott free either. I do think a good portion of the blame falls on the bike driver. There are way to many important details missing from the story for me to have a strong opinion one way or the other. It is tragic for all involved for sure.

We also had another very experienced member, Miles, hit by lightening on the bike a couple of years ago. He was injured pretty bad but did survive it some how. A car/truck is about the safest place to be during lightening, a bike is about the worst place to be.

It depends on if you have good rain gear, and/or mind riding in the rain.

They are not that hard to find. Just use a brass magnet.

Now I am really wishing I could have stowed away with you. YOU FOUND SNOW IN JUNE!!!!

There were 6 Tornadoes that touched down in WI. I was not near any of them. I don't know if any of our members were. You can keep that hot stuff down by you. No one ever heard me complain about the winter, I would rather have than .