Flyinfool

On the other hand I am still working on the design of a new product and they are still spending money on this development. That does not normally happen if they have plans to close the doors. Usually when there is a plan to close the door the engineers with their bigger salaries are the first ones out, since if they are closing there is no need to engineer new or improved stuff. I'll give it a few more weeks to see how things settle out. I am still hoping that this is just a sales slump and things will recover. Did I mention that I hate job hunting more than most of you hate SNOW?????? I also really do not want to move, If you ever saw my basement you would understand....... There is a whole machine shop down there, It would take months just to move the machines.

South is not an option, medically I do not tolerate heat well, no one has ever heard me complain about the snow or cold. I can deal with the -20F a lot better than 90+F I am just a year away from getting a third week of vacation, I really hate to start over again. I will ride this boat for a while yet. I do have an ace in the hole with a start up company that wants to hire me once they get up and running. I have done side jobs for them creating all of their patent drawings, and prototype drawings, they were very pleased with my work. They told me that if I should loose this job before they are up and running that they will put me on the payroll and find something for me to do just to not risk loosing me. But that remains to be seen should push come to shove. I figure that a start up company is no more risk than where I am right now.

No I am not talking about the recent wave of shootings in the area. While I am at the moment still currently employed as an engineer, the engineering department has shrunk from 4 people down to just me, myself and I. It sure is quiet at this end of the building all day. Last Friday there was another big layoff and the other engineer is the one that was let go. At least it shows a vote of confidence in my abilities (I hope) since I am now the mechanical engineer, the electrical engineer and the manufacturing engineer and any other type of engineer that they can think of. Hmmm but I guess that also makes me the engineering secretary, and the engineering file clerk. I have been here for 15 years now, but I think the writing is on the wall, no one will be here for very much longer. The company has shrunk from 150 employies 4 years ago to just 50 now and most of them are in management. It has been almost all production people that have been let go so far. I really hate job hunting. especially now as an old grey hair. But I fear that I must now start looiking around.

So Dan you are saying that the Hardley will always be in FRONT of Brown Sugar or even Ugly???? I just do not understand this getting old, First he gets a 2nd gen, and then thinks he can no longer stay ahead of a Hardley. I sure hope I never get that old......

Seeeee Ya should have come to the WI MD at Orlins. He might just loan you a goat........ You are lucky that you do not have a real lawn, I still have to cut mine when my 80lb dog disappears. Heck my driveway has more grass than your lawn. How can I get mine to look like that???? I like it. You are already starting (or is it still) to pick on me about some "fictitious" weather machine huh................ Records are made to be broken........

While it is common for that O-ring to leak, It is also not quite uncommon for the plastic part over the t-stat to warp. There was a post where someone made a metal clamp to keep the plastic part from warping. I just milled my plastic part flat and did not over tighten the bolts. You could flatten yours with sand paper on a flat surface if it is warped.

Another thought. The local baseball fields around here have coyote decoys set up in a way that they can move in the wind. It does a great job of keeping the geese off of the ball fields. I wonder if it would work on deer????? Found it http://www.comforthouse.com/coyotedecoy.html I still vote for turning her into steaks....

On the second gen everyone pretty much puts the horn in the same place. On the first gen I don't know if I have seen any two bikes with the horns in the same places. This makes it hard to do a plug and play wire harness. As far as mounting brackets, they will vary greatly depending on where you decide to put the new horn(s). But then the wiring is so easy that even I could do it. There are 2 wires that go to the stock horn. Just extend these 2 wires to reach your chosen location for the relay, these 2 wires connect to pins 85 and 86. Run a wire from the battery Pos to a fuse, from the fuse to pin 30 on the relay, and from pin 87 to the + terminal of your new horn. Ground the other terminal of the horn and you are done.

If I am making a post that is that big and or detailed. I will craft it in word where I have full auto save and editing features, and then cut and paste it into the forum reply box. I have only seen one other forum that has an auto save feature. It got to be annoying and I have been trying to figure out how to turn it off. I also tent to look where I am putting my fingers so as to not hit things I don't want to. Now if I can just get the letters on the keyboard lined up in alphabetical order so that I do not have to look so long to find them........

At 70 yards a high power pellet gun will still get the point across with no permanent damage. Around here everyone has a 10 foot high fence around their veggie gardens. The electric fence on my uncles farm that is there to keep the cows in does not work well on the deer. They do not see the wire and when they walk into it and get zapped, their first reaction is to jump forward and they knock the wire down or break it. Worst case a 22LR with a silencer.

I am betting that the barons tach adapter is nothing more than 2 diodes and maybe a capacitor since it claims to also smooth needle bounce. I would try it first with the 2 diodes. Cyl 1 ----|>|---| |--------Tach input Cyl 2 ----|>|---| OK its a lousy representation of a simple schematic......

I just got one from you. I recognize the format that is popular for spamers to use. Make sure that you have a strong password. A strong password will have upper and lower case letters, numbers and symbols, and be at least 12 characters long. The hackers do not want to work that hard to crack it. There are plenty of emails to crack that have easy passwords.

You don't necessarily need to change your email addy, just your password to get into your email account. The hackers like yahoo and hotmail because there is no limit as to how many wrong passwords can be entered. So the find what they believe is a valid email addy and then have a computer keep sending random passwords until it hits the right one and logs in. They then spam like crazy till you catch them and change the password. In my contacts I have all of my email addresses so the spamers will endup sending me spam from myself to all of my computers at home and at work. I also have a fictitious contact of aaaaaaa@aaaaaaaa.com. this one will always bounce and since it is at the top of he list it Will be in the first batch sent. AS soon as I see that bounced email I know it is time to change the password again.

I got 2 tests, I didn't study for either one of them. Oh well..... Maybe next time.

There is probably no fan that will fit that can get close to matching the ram air through the radiator at 55 MPH. Having the fan on at highway speed can actually restrict airflow through the radiator. On an airplane a spinning propeller is more drag than a stopped propeller.

Good luck, We will be waiting for your report.

Dingy Do you know if that output can be set so that once it goes high it stays high until you turn off the ignition. Or would I have to do the same latching relay trick I did here with the jumper and a diode. After my ordeal last year with the engine cutting out I would not want the road to go dark. Red Rider I still have that headlight out indicator sitting in the wings looking for a guinea pig.....

This is sure starting to sound like an "as long as you in there" thread. Since the heads are coming off, Valve job? Mill for a little more compression? Boil out?.......... The list can go on.......

That is only $3.69 that he paid for gas. I only wish. Gas must be mush better quality here since it is $3.80. Out in Cali it is well over $4. But I think ol Puc was trying to point out how little gas hed had left when he found this station 4.43 gallons into his 5 gallon tank.

Just another update. 4 years and my HID is still going strong. I now have it switched on by using the brake lights as the trigger. Even with the seperate switch and blinking red light, I found I was still forgetting to turn on the headlight in the daytime. I know that I will not ride very far at all without using one of the brakes. Nothing to remember. Headlight comes on when you hit either brake for the first time. Headlight turns off with the key. If you hit the start button after the headlight is on, the headlight will turn off until you hit either brake again. This would come into play if you should kill the engine for some reason and have to restart. The hookup is so simple that it was hard to see at first. Prep a relay by connecting a wire from pin 85 to pin 30. I used a piece of solid wire and soldered it as close to the case as I could so that I can still push on the connectors. Connect pin 86 to ground. Find the yellow wire that runs from the front brake switch. Tap into this wire and connect it to the anode of a diode (1n400x or similar). Connect the cathode end of the diode (the end with the stripe on it) to pin 85. Find the blue/white wire that goes to the high low beam switch. Cut this wire. Connect the side that goes to the hi/lo switch to pin 30 and connect the bike side to pin 87. How it works. When you turn the key on the blue/white wire goes hot, that is the normal feed for the headlight. But since it is connected to the NO relay, nothing happens. When you hit the brake it closes the relay and the power is sent on to the headlight. The little jumper wire on the relay holds the relay closed until something causes a power interruption on the blue/white wire. The only 2 things that should cause a power interruption on the blue/white wire is turning off the ignition switch or pressing the start button. The Diode is there to keep the blue white wire from back feeding the brake light. I also looked into why the white light was coming on instead of the blue High beam indicator. It seems there is an error in the wiring diagram in the service manual, they had these two bulbs reversed. I have gone back and edited my original how to with the correct wire colors. Or you can just pull them out and switch their positions in the dash panel like you guys did.

The first thing that come to mind is that for the part that goes into the receiver the square aluminum will not fit. If the receiver is made out of steel tubing, it will have rounded corners, the aluminum tubing will have sharp square corners. By the time you round off the corners of the aluminum to fit into the receiver the wall thickness will be to thin for safety. On the one that I am making I will be using all aluminum except that the part that goes into the receiver will be steel tube bolted to the rest of the frame. Yes you can weld different alloys of aluminum together, just make sure that all of the alloys you are using are weldable, some do not weld well. Ideally you will want to get the aluminum anodized after all welding and drilling is done, using different alloys can give weird results when anodizing. Anodizing adds a lot of corrosion protection, can be done in clear or almost any colors, wears well, or is a great base to paint over. I am using all 6061-T6 and 6063-T6 aluminum to build my frame. These two are very similar in strength and weldability and anodize well. The strength is more in the design than the material used.

I know that the front brake master on an 88 is 14mm bore. The earlier years (I am not sure what years) is 1/2 inch. I do not know what size the clutch master is. On the brake master the bore size is cast into the side of the housing as either 1/2 or 14mm. Check your clutch master to see if it is marked.

My '88 Venture is old enough to be insured as a classic BUT, the classic bike insurance with American Family is more than what full coverage regular MC insurance would be. Part of it may depend on what state you are in. In WI a vehicle with collector plates can still be a daily driver. In other states there are restrictions on how much a collector can be driven.

Puc, star date when you made your post was Star Date 92102.49. The time now is stardate 92102.80

You really should not have to add any diodes to an isolator or a converter to make it work. If you need additional diodes to prevent back feeding, something is not right somewhere. My converter has now been on the bike for 4 years and still works correctly. Solid state electronics should not die of old age. especially not in just a few years. I would be POed if it did not last at least 20 years. Question to M61A1MECH; On the splice that you make for the second gen, do the pigtails coming out match the bikes wire colors or the industry standards for tailer wiring? This could be part of the problem as to whether yellow is left turn signal or brake light etc. Wire colors; bike - converter - function black - white - ground yellow - red - brake green - green - right turn signal brown - yellow - left turn signal Blue - brown - tail light