Flyinfool

I got 2 tests, I didn't study for either one of them. Oh well..... Maybe next time.

There is probably no fan that will fit that can get close to matching the ram air through the radiator at 55 MPH. Having the fan on at highway speed can actually restrict airflow through the radiator. On an airplane a spinning propeller is more drag than a stopped propeller.

Good luck, We will be waiting for your report.

Dingy Do you know if that output can be set so that once it goes high it stays high until you turn off the ignition. Or would I have to do the same latching relay trick I did here with the jumper and a diode. After my ordeal last year with the engine cutting out I would not want the road to go dark. Red Rider I still have that headlight out indicator sitting in the wings looking for a guinea pig.....

This is sure starting to sound like an "as long as you in there" thread. Since the heads are coming off, Valve job? Mill for a little more compression? Boil out?.......... The list can go on.......

That is only $3.69 that he paid for gas. I only wish. Gas must be mush better quality here since it is $3.80. Out in Cali it is well over $4. But I think ol Puc was trying to point out how little gas hed had left when he found this station 4.43 gallons into his 5 gallon tank.

Just another update. 4 years and my HID is still going strong. I now have it switched on by using the brake lights as the trigger. Even with the seperate switch and blinking red light, I found I was still forgetting to turn on the headlight in the daytime. I know that I will not ride very far at all without using one of the brakes. Nothing to remember. Headlight comes on when you hit either brake for the first time. Headlight turns off with the key. If you hit the start button after the headlight is on, the headlight will turn off until you hit either brake again. This would come into play if you should kill the engine for some reason and have to restart. The hookup is so simple that it was hard to see at first. Prep a relay by connecting a wire from pin 85 to pin 30. I used a piece of solid wire and soldered it as close to the case as I could so that I can still push on the connectors. Connect pin 86 to ground. Find the yellow wire that runs from the front brake switch. Tap into this wire and connect it to the anode of a diode (1n400x or similar). Connect the cathode end of the diode (the end with the stripe on it) to pin 85. Find the blue/white wire that goes to the high low beam switch. Cut this wire. Connect the side that goes to the hi/lo switch to pin 30 and connect the bike side to pin 87. How it works. When you turn the key on the blue/white wire goes hot, that is the normal feed for the headlight. But since it is connected to the NO relay, nothing happens. When you hit the brake it closes the relay and the power is sent on to the headlight. The little jumper wire on the relay holds the relay closed until something causes a power interruption on the blue/white wire. The only 2 things that should cause a power interruption on the blue/white wire is turning off the ignition switch or pressing the start button. The Diode is there to keep the blue white wire from back feeding the brake light. I also looked into why the white light was coming on instead of the blue High beam indicator. It seems there is an error in the wiring diagram in the service manual, they had these two bulbs reversed. I have gone back and edited my original how to with the correct wire colors. Or you can just pull them out and switch their positions in the dash panel like you guys did.

The first thing that come to mind is that for the part that goes into the receiver the square aluminum will not fit. If the receiver is made out of steel tubing, it will have rounded corners, the aluminum tubing will have sharp square corners. By the time you round off the corners of the aluminum to fit into the receiver the wall thickness will be to thin for safety. On the one that I am making I will be using all aluminum except that the part that goes into the receiver will be steel tube bolted to the rest of the frame. Yes you can weld different alloys of aluminum together, just make sure that all of the alloys you are using are weldable, some do not weld well. Ideally you will want to get the aluminum anodized after all welding and drilling is done, using different alloys can give weird results when anodizing. Anodizing adds a lot of corrosion protection, can be done in clear or almost any colors, wears well, or is a great base to paint over. I am using all 6061-T6 and 6063-T6 aluminum to build my frame. These two are very similar in strength and weldability and anodize well. The strength is more in the design than the material used.

I know that the front brake master on an 88 is 14mm bore. The earlier years (I am not sure what years) is 1/2 inch. I do not know what size the clutch master is. On the brake master the bore size is cast into the side of the housing as either 1/2 or 14mm. Check your clutch master to see if it is marked.

My '88 Venture is old enough to be insured as a classic BUT, the classic bike insurance with American Family is more than what full coverage regular MC insurance would be. Part of it may depend on what state you are in. In WI a vehicle with collector plates can still be a daily driver. In other states there are restrictions on how much a collector can be driven.

Puc, star date when you made your post was Star Date 92102.49. The time now is stardate 92102.80

I don't think Honda offers refunds. Your best bet would be to trade that Gold Wing for a 1st gen.....

Sounds like fun. I just got back from Orlins MD so I is to pooped to run down there for so so ice cream. You do know if you want the best ice cream you need to make a pit stop here in the real dairy state on your way home. Just gimme a yodel on your way thru. I'll show you some real ice cream and a great burger to boot

If the switch was dirty at some point the dirt can cause resistance which will make the switch get hot. A bulb can also burn our where the broken filament lands across the internal wires of the bulb causing a partial short and higher current draw for a short time. If nothing else shows any heat damage in the brake light circuit it most likely was dirty contacts in the switch.

Weather was hot and sunny with a 53% chance of rain. But we got the whole 53% Saturday night ......

Thank you Orlin and Sharon for hosting this event. A great time was had by all. You were over the top with great food and great rides and great friendship. We just need a new person in charge of weather ....... It was an interesting night to be in a tent.

I now have rubber grommets from the local hardware store, about $0.50 each. Take the old one in to match it up. A bit of Vaseline on the pegs makes the hole wear longer.

Fortunately this is a myth. But if a 2000 lb car and your 1000 lb bike meet each other going 55 the effective impact speed for the bike will be about 73 MPH. and the effective impact speed for the car would be about 37 MPH I doubt if there will be any difference in the outcome for the bike whether it feels 73 or 110 MPH impact. Now if that other vehicle coming at you is a semi at 80,000 lbs then you will feel 109.999 MPH of impact.

I think its called an oxymoron. OK so English ain't my field of expertise either.

Well they are claiming it has a lifetime warranty. But when they were HID Country they sold lifetime warranties and extended warranties and then when the claims start coming in, they close shop and reopen under a new name voiding all of those PAID FOR warranties.

Congrats on the new bike. Yes it is a big heavy bike. But it is also a rocket once you get it running. These 2 threads will tell you all of the things to look at. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65738 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1066 We have rules on this site, If there aint pics id didn't happen. We all like to look at pics.

Very Nice!!

But I was not there........

Is that the battery volts or the running volts? If that is the battery volts not running then it is good. I was beginning to wonder if the real problem may have been your meter that you were taking the measurements with. It seemed every time you ran a test you got different results. But at least you now know all of your connectors are good to go.

OUCH! I didn't mean to hit anything........