Flyinfool

:rotfl:

MMMmmmmmmm........ Blizzards, I like blizzards. Haven't had one since March, may have to conjure one up.......

I'm with you on working under the bike. Cars are not an issue because I know that no matter how aggressive I get with a wrench under there, I can not flip the car over. I would bet that I can pull hard enough to tip a bike over.

Normal LEDs in modest amounts is the key. That is why I said "Some people would be surprised at just how much power even LEDs can draw." It is not that we disagree, I do agree with you if we include your disclaimer. But then I have never been accused of doing anything in a "normal" way. My trailer is all LED, In modest amounts, but not normal. I have all high brightness LEDs. My trailer has only one fixture more than the minimum required by law. and that one more is a center brake light with 3 running LEDs and 8 more that come on bright with the brakes. My trailer pulls 3.5 amps with all LEDs lit. That is 49 watts, almost the same as the headlight. This would be withe the brakes on. That is a lot for our wimpy electrical systems. Some of the newer High output LEDs actually pull more power than the incandescents they are replacing. Each person must evaluate the combination of parts that they have chosen for their trailer. The better quality stuff will tell you its power requirements and light output.

It depends on where the nail is and how straight it went in. If the nail went in at a big angle and/or is not near the center of the tire, then I would replace the tire. If the nail went straight in near the center then I would get a T patch.

And then make Tweeks and Tip watch you stuff groceries down yer neck. I see her behind you with her mouth open wishing she had a burger too. I hope she smacked you. Shame on you............

I never had to try it but I read some where that if you just have the screw from behind the glass (all you see from the bottom is the threaded end of the screw) you can use a Dremel to grind a slot in the end of the screw to be able to use a flat screwdriver to tighten up the screw.

Installing an isolator is not just for if the trailer wiring shorts out. After all that is a very low probability failure mode. The biggest benefit of the isolator is take the load of the trailer lighting off of the bikes electrical system. The wire sizes and the switch contacts are just enough for the bikes stock lighting they are stressed to carry a lot of extra load. Some people would be surprised at just how much power even LEDs can draw. So even if you are doing a 5 wire trailer it is still a good idea to use an isolator.

The clutch switch just plugs into the housing. Maybe it just pulled the switch out of the hole and just needs to get pushed back in? It may be possible that the clutch lever is bent causing the binding?

Don't encourage him......

This is the second time you mentioned a clutch cable. The venture does not have a clutch cable, it is a hydraulic clutch. Do you mean the clutch line was broken? or one of the electrical cables that go up near the clutch lever? Or was this not your Venture?

Ouch! That hurts just thinking about it. So if it wasn't just grass there, what was hiding there?

It least feeling stupid is the easiest injury to heal. Glad you did not have any physical injuries. The donate button is in the top right corner.

I think he just saved me a whole lot of work..........

Sounds like fun. Plan on needing 2 new tires. Check the date codes. Can use that to help bargain. $5k is in the middle of the range from Kelly Blue book. Beyond that I have no real idea if that is a good price.

Put the bike on the center stand and use a jack under the front of the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. 1. Remove front brake calipers. (I am not sure what needs to be done with the Anti Dive brake lines on the 83.) 2. Loosen pinch bolt on front axle. 3. Pull front axle out until you can get the old drive out. (I do not recall if the axle must come all of the way out so you can drop the front wheel out.) 4. install new drive making sure you line up the tabs. 5. Put front wheel back in place and install axle. 6. Torque front axle to spec and tighten pinch bolt to spec. 7. Now is a good time to take a look at your front brake pads. If the pads are still good but the inner and outer do not have the same amount of wear, switch the inner and outer pads to get more even wear. 8. Put brake calipers back on. 9. Go see how fast you are going.

The weather is looking like this is going to happen as scheduled. It is going to be an ugly weekend around here with this traffic mess. Might just have to get a big bucket of ice cream and a comfy chair and watch the pinheads try to navigate this one.

Sorry to hear about you and the bike. Or at least stay away from mini vans.... As far as construction zones, there is absolutely no way to avoid then around here unless you just resign yourself to stay home forever. I never ride next to anything, if I am going to pass or get passed, I make sure it happens very quickly.

Here is a great place to start. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297

Glad to have you back. I get some of the best answers when I am talking to myself.....

:sign yeah that: And check all fuses, don't forget the main fuse. Beyond checking for loose terminals and fuses there is not much you can check on the side of the road till you get some test equipment in hand.

I'll have to think about it, That M14 x 1.50P tap is kind of expensive for just messin around to see if I can do it when I or someone else don't really have a current need for it.

I did not post a version with different drop heights. The bearings will move vertically with the drop so that the center of the ball will always be on the vertical centerline of the bike, and the center of the ball will always be on the centerline of the bearings. I think you are not seeing it right. When the coupler tilts enough to hit the shank of the ball it will then cause the ball to rotate in the bearings to accommodate the tilt, exactly the same way that the tongue mounted swivels work. I can make the vertical piece any length to get whatever drop or rise one needs.

I am still working on getting out of having to go to Madison for the weekend. If I can weasle my way out of it then I will come on down. But it is a pretty long ride for my poor marshmallow butt. Lots of gas stops. You mentioned that they open at 10 am. But what time are you planing to be there and how late are you staying?

The trailer its self should not be an issue for the bike to pull. The issue will come when you fill it with stuff. My trailer loaded is about 375-400 and 40 tongue. It is no problem but I am looking into adding brakes to it because I do not like the extended stopping distance required. Since I live just north of Chicago I have to deal with those knuckleheads more than I would like to and want to retain the ability for a fast emergency stop. I think that there are a lot of trailers in that weight range being pulled by our V4s. But that is the fully loaded weight. With the side area of that trailer, you will have to be very careful in cross winds. Whether it will work behind your bike will boil down to how much stuff you pack inside it for a trip. Because it is tall and wide you may need to add something to your mirrors to be able to see behind you. That is required by law in most states. With that height and width expect very much reduced gas mileage and be ready to be cruising one gear lower than you are used to. Especially with a head wind.