Flyinfool

Only if you need them. A new disc will not grip any better than a used disc that is still in spec. OEM friction discs are 3mm (0.1181 inche) thick, worn out is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch) thick. My discs measured 0.1170 inch thick at 45,000 miles. I reused them.

Well at least this time you are feeding the better half....... Stop getting lost and get on down there before it is time to come home.

The HID make down the road visibility better not because the are usually 6000K, but because the make a lot more light. The light source in an HID is basically the same thing as the arc from a welder. It is just very bright for the watts that it uses. If possible I will always have HID on my bike till I see something better. LED is getting close but is not quite there yet. A dedicated LED in a housing designed for that LED will do a great job lighting up the road so the technology of getting a LED to produce enough light is there. Now we just need the light makers to make housings to make use of the LED light source. There is no replacement LED bulb (That I have seen) that will focus properly when swapped into a housing not designed for it. Even a HID swap is not perfect in a housing made for incandescent but is pretty darn close, and is acceptable (to me) as long as you take the time to aim it properly. I have tried the High wattage incandescent bulbs, they are bright, no problems there, but they draw a LOT of power and get really hot. The heat can melt the connector, many have had to switch to a ceramic connector to handle the heat. The power draw may be an issue if you have other power hungry things like heated gear or other additional lighting. So there is good and bad in all of the technologies that are available. You have to decide which advantages will outweigh which disadvantages for you. That is why you have seen several different opinions on which is the best way to get more light on the road. Each of these people chose which features were most important to them in their situation.

You always have the option to laugh at him and then make a counter offer equally insulting to the dealer and then offer to meet in the middle.

The 6000k only defines the color of the light. The higher the number the bluer the light. That 6000K has nothing at all to due with brightness which is what you need to see at night. A lot of advertising likes to make it look like the color number is the brightness just because it is a big number. Anything over 6000K is getting so blue that it will be hard to see at all, but it looks cool to some.... 4300K is a bit yellowish 5000K is very close to white light. 6000K is starting to show some blue but not bad yet. 7000K is getting pretty blue for cosmetic purposes and starting to get harder to see. My headlight is a 6000K only because at the time I bought it they did not make a 5000K.

There are some 2nd gens there so there should be plenty of whine........

A trickle charger is not good to leave connected to any lead acid battery long term. A battery maintainer is different than a trickle charger. A maintainer can be left on all the time. A maintainer has circuitry to measure the battery voltage and only give it more charge if it actually needs it. Some maintainers also have circuitry to desulfate the plates. The same one will work equally well on any size of lead acid battery. A trickle charger just keeps pumping in power whether the battery needs it or not. This is also not best for long term storage battery health.

Go git um.........

0.5% THD is also pretty bad. Most people with normal hearing would not be happy with it. The stereo on my bike is a Kenwood, 30W per channel 0.15% THD and I am not happy with that. It will be getting upgraded one of these days. I just can't decide on what I want to get.

Speaking of magnets for screws and nails. I put a very powerful N52 magnet on the bottom of my bike to help with traffic lights. I often find screws, nails, and other steel trash stuck to it. I figure every one of those was looking for my back tire.

Nothing feels better than a job well done. But I would still look into adding the relay, even if you have to sneak the wire along some where until you get around to pulling the tank.

More interesting tidbits. They have already fitted it to a Yamaha V4....... :bikersmilie:

The fuel pump will not run if the float bowels are already full. Open the drain on one of the carbs to empty the float bowel to see if the pump will then run. Its been done before, so I have to ask, are you sure the kill switch is in the run position?

Ya know Puc, that MKII that you have sitting in the garage has bigger bags, you might squeeze that bead braker in there.......Or strap it on to the crash bar next to the gallon milk jug.

I also gave up on Woot with the new owners, many items can be found for less, and the description is just not fun like it used to be. I am getting close to wanting to replace my ancient old Garmin nuvi 200. I am not looking for the cheapest that money can buy, I did that back when I got the one I have now. I want something that will work on both the bike and the car. I remember reading something that listed other "non motorcycle" Garmins as being waterproof even though the Garmin literature did not mention water proof. They were half the price of the "water proof" ones.

See Brian, You should know better than to mention oil....... How can you call something "such BS" and in rest of the statement agree with it? No one has disagreed with the concept that synthetic oils will make a tiny leak become obvious. I for one am not willing to do a complete engine rebuild to fix my weak 30 year old seals and gaskets just so I can run a synthetic oil and not have my parking spot look like a Harley parks there. No one said that the synthetic is damaging the seals or creating the leaks, but it is a fact that synthetic is more prone to leaking out through weak seals and gaskets than dino. Even you said so. The post you called BS said so. I think everyone else has agreed upon that. The OP mentioned that they were planning to put synthetic in an old bike, some of us were just pointing out that those old seals and gaskets may not seal as good as new seals and gaskets. Your bike may have great seals or been treated right all of its life. Great for you. Not everyone is so lucky to be able to buy a 28 year old bike that has perfect treatment for its entire life. I like synthetics, I run them in all of my other vehicles, just can't in my Venture, it won't stay in the engine, dino does stay in the engine.

You got enough popcorn for everyone??

You do not have 30 year old gaskets and seals.

I am 250 and ride 1 up. Tire pressure depends on the tires. In most cases 40 front and rear will be safe. Check the sidewall for max pressure. you want to be close to max pressure. Shock pressure My 88 lists max front at 21 PSI, I run 7 PSI Rear is 85 MAX I run 45 :sign yeah that: I tried Amsoil MC oil last year and the bike started to leak out of everywhere including the 3 year old valve cover gaskets. This year I went back to Valvoline MC oil and most of the leaks are now drying up. I am also getting better gas mileage with the Valvoline over the Amsoil.

Did you see the title of this thread and read the original post from Greg? Title - Worried now that I unlinked brakes This sure sounds like delinked brakes to me...... So now whose buttocks speaks??.....

Actually it does make it easier for the air bubble to move, and gravity says the bubble will move up. When you put pressure on the system that has a bubble, the bubble will get smaller because air is compressible. The smaller bubble will fit thru the lines better to be able to float to the top. With the master being the high point in the system that is where the air bubble will end up. The next day when you release the pressure, the air bubble will be at the top right next to the now open ports where gravity will again make it move up and out of the system. Then on the next stroke of the piston the bubble will be gone. This same trick will not work on the rear because the master is not the high point. It also will not work on most cars because the system is not vertical. The front brake of a bike might just be the only place that the geometry is right for this to work. That air bubble thing was started by people that really do understand how the brake system works along with some of the physics involved. That and it sure seems to work for a lot of people.

This is not a fuel issue. No spark is the issue. You now have a direction to move in. See above spark issues.

A wet ride up and if you are tubing a wet ride down.

Wimp, Try a 36" Sony (manual says it is 270lbs) tube TV up the stairs with 2 turns. 150 lbs sounds easy......

Or for that matter a used one and just have it painted. The body shop was going to repaint the whole thing anyhow but with a used one there is no hammering out the dent and filling and sanding required. Just another option to look into. I would check out the side stand and its mounts and pivot bolt real close. You are lucky it was a crappy surface that did not offer the stand much traction, or it might have broke and dropped the bike.