Flyinfool

The fuel pump will not run if the float bowels are already full. Open the drain on one of the carbs to empty the float bowel to see if the pump will then run. Its been done before, so I have to ask, are you sure the kill switch is in the run position?

Ya know Puc, that MKII that you have sitting in the garage has bigger bags, you might squeeze that bead braker in there.......Or strap it on to the crash bar next to the gallon milk jug.

I also gave up on Woot with the new owners, many items can be found for less, and the description is just not fun like it used to be. I am getting close to wanting to replace my ancient old Garmin nuvi 200. I am not looking for the cheapest that money can buy, I did that back when I got the one I have now. I want something that will work on both the bike and the car. I remember reading something that listed other "non motorcycle" Garmins as being waterproof even though the Garmin literature did not mention water proof. They were half the price of the "water proof" ones.

See Brian, You should know better than to mention oil....... How can you call something "such BS" and in rest of the statement agree with it? No one has disagreed with the concept that synthetic oils will make a tiny leak become obvious. I for one am not willing to do a complete engine rebuild to fix my weak 30 year old seals and gaskets just so I can run a synthetic oil and not have my parking spot look like a Harley parks there. No one said that the synthetic is damaging the seals or creating the leaks, but it is a fact that synthetic is more prone to leaking out through weak seals and gaskets than dino. Even you said so. The post you called BS said so. I think everyone else has agreed upon that. The OP mentioned that they were planning to put synthetic in an old bike, some of us were just pointing out that those old seals and gaskets may not seal as good as new seals and gaskets. Your bike may have great seals or been treated right all of its life. Great for you. Not everyone is so lucky to be able to buy a 28 year old bike that has perfect treatment for its entire life. I like synthetics, I run them in all of my other vehicles, just can't in my Venture, it won't stay in the engine, dino does stay in the engine.

You got enough popcorn for everyone??

You do not have 30 year old gaskets and seals.

I am 250 and ride 1 up. Tire pressure depends on the tires. In most cases 40 front and rear will be safe. Check the sidewall for max pressure. you want to be close to max pressure. Shock pressure My 88 lists max front at 21 PSI, I run 7 PSI Rear is 85 MAX I run 45 :sign yeah that: I tried Amsoil MC oil last year and the bike started to leak out of everywhere including the 3 year old valve cover gaskets. This year I went back to Valvoline MC oil and most of the leaks are now drying up. I am also getting better gas mileage with the Valvoline over the Amsoil.

Did you see the title of this thread and read the original post from Greg? Title - Worried now that I unlinked brakes This sure sounds like delinked brakes to me...... So now whose buttocks speaks??.....

Actually it does make it easier for the air bubble to move, and gravity says the bubble will move up. When you put pressure on the system that has a bubble, the bubble will get smaller because air is compressible. The smaller bubble will fit thru the lines better to be able to float to the top. With the master being the high point in the system that is where the air bubble will end up. The next day when you release the pressure, the air bubble will be at the top right next to the now open ports where gravity will again make it move up and out of the system. Then on the next stroke of the piston the bubble will be gone. This same trick will not work on the rear because the master is not the high point. It also will not work on most cars because the system is not vertical. The front brake of a bike might just be the only place that the geometry is right for this to work. That air bubble thing was started by people that really do understand how the brake system works along with some of the physics involved. That and it sure seems to work for a lot of people.

This is not a fuel issue. No spark is the issue. You now have a direction to move in. See above spark issues.

A wet ride up and if you are tubing a wet ride down.

Wimp, Try a 36" Sony (manual says it is 270lbs) tube TV up the stairs with 2 turns. 150 lbs sounds easy......

Or for that matter a used one and just have it painted. The body shop was going to repaint the whole thing anyhow but with a used one there is no hammering out the dent and filling and sanding required. Just another option to look into. I would check out the side stand and its mounts and pivot bolt real close. You are lucky it was a crappy surface that did not offer the stand much traction, or it might have broke and dropped the bike.

I still have not owned my first flat screen TV or monitor. Your telling me there are better TVs at Goodwill than what I have in my living room?

Wait a minute...... Most of the members on this site are a bunch of clowns. I even think there is photographic evidence from the last MD to prove it.

So did you take her for a ride yet??

I agree that the Corvette is a whole lot lighter, but the statement was that the Challenger Hellcat is the fastest American muscle car. Regardless of the reasons why, it is not faster than a Corvette, and if if it should get faster I'll bet that it will not take long to bump up the Vette. My sister just took her 2014 vet on a road trip, averaged 34 MPG over about 1200 miles. Not bad for 400+ HP available. Heck at 4300 lbs that is getting close to the weight of a full size pickup at 4700 lbs.

LOL If all else fails get a bigger hammer..........:doh:

I believe the 85 has the electric anti dive. If it is the electric anti dive there will be no difference. If you have the hydraulic anti dive then you will have 50% less anti dive and there will be an imbalance between left and right. Since on a 2nd gen having different air pressure in the shocks makes a difference in handling, the difference in anti dive might also make a difference. BUT what you did not ask about is braking power. Most of your braking power is from the front wheel, and you just cut that in half. Skydoc_17 sells a delink kit that will operate both front brakes from the hand brake to get full brake power back. The rear brake has a proportioning valve to meter the difference between front and rear. If you are delinking you also want to remove this valve so it does not reduce pressure to the rear brake as you press harder on the brake peddle.

So which trick worked to make the brakes good?

Wouldn't it be safer to do this on the center stand so that if it gets bumped into gear the bike will not move?

Um......... I know what you meant but,,,,, should this not be LOW ohms (near zero)? And a high or open reading would mean that the ground wire to that bulb is broken or has a bad connection.

Does applying the brake have any effect on the turn signals?

After looking at some of the other vids, it does appear to have seat belts.

If it is way rich then adding choke will make it run worse. If it is lean adding choke will make it run better. Either way it would not hurt to add some SeaFoam to the gas. SeaFoam helps many dirty carb issues.