Flyinfool

Nice Job!!

At the last 2 Internationals, How many rooms/beds were needed and how many camp sites? Just to get an idea of the size of the facility that is needed.

Go for it. We have all been dieing to have someone put this on their Venture.

It is hard to say without seeing it, but odds are I would weld it back together and add a gusset for extra strength, and maybe add a gusset in the same place on the other side. Of course welding will mess up the chrome. You can either take it somewhere to get it chromed or splash some chrome paint on it, or take this opportunity to paint the whole thing a different color and get rid of some chrome.

Or you could hang loose for a couple of months to see if there is any truth to the rumors that there is a all new 2015 Venture coming based off the new VMAX engine. So then you would be happy to pay $50k for my '88. After all it is faster and it already even has collector plates on it, and it is such a rare version that it took me years to convince most of the experts on this site that it even does exist.

Yes Yes Yes No I'll have to dig to find the details.

I have always dragged a peg and never the center sand on my 88. But then I have never been 2 up. Try putting a tie strap on your center stand to be sure that you do not have a weak spring that is letting the stand sag with the G force generated in a hard turn.

On my 1st gen I have a BiXenon HID head light at 35 watts. This puts out way more light than than the stock halogen and saves a little power too. For driving lights I have the KC HiLiTES 35 series spread beam lights. These lights are focused between a driving light and a fog light. They do help light up straight down the road but they also do an excellent job of lighting up the ditches for spotting deer and other critters that are headed for the road. If you look at the lens they are angled outward. They are not the prettiest but they do work, are of good quality and have a 23 year warranty from a reputable company. They come with 55w halogens. If you are worried about the power you could down grade to 35W halogen. I am planning to convert mine to 35w HID. At first I could not use them in town, just out on the road where I will not spend much time at idle. Now that I have converted all of the brake, turn, and running lights to LED, and with the 35W HID headlight. I can now run these two 55W lights all the time and still be charging at idle.

I don't know if there is a significant difference in the RR between a 1st and 2nd gen. But on a 1st gen the voltage does not drop once the battery is charged. It's 14.0 all the time that the RPMs are up. This is the first that I have heard of a 2nd gen having a "smart" regulator to vary the voltage output based on the battery state of charge. But then I have never worked on the charging system of a 2nd gen either. If this is the case, I might want to put a 2nd gen RR on my 1st gen.

I don't remember if it is 30A or 40A...... Will have to look when I can take the false tank cover off.

Also replace with a name brand fuse. There are documented cases where some cheap Chinese fuses when run right at or slightly over their rating would melt but not blow.

I watched the pilot. It was mostly introducing the characters. I am more interested in tecno than the story line unless the story line gets to some action. The first episode just barely kept my hand off the remote.

I got a MAXI fuse and holder from NAPA for my main fuse.

I would doubt it. I don't think there is enough horsepower to red line 5th. 4th may actually top out higher than 5th. I also do not know of anyone that has what it takes too find out. My limit is 100MPH that is quick enough that I will be waiting at the next DQ for the Harleys and 2nd gens to catch up. On a trip a couple of years ago there was a group of 6 Harleys in the left lane of the interstate I had the cruise set a little faster than they were going so I moved over to the center lane to pass them. They aparently too offence to being passed and I could hear their pipes get louder. they pulled up by and were giving me looks that I did not like so I sped up, their pipes got louder again. Not want to play games I made sure to keep them well behind me. one of them must have had his engine well built because he was able ti punch it and catch up to me again. at that point I decided I had enough of them so at 85 MPH I dropped to 3rd, making sure he knew I down shifted twice, looked at him, smiled, and then hit it and put that last rider with the big engine, in the all gone machine. I think what added to the insult was that I was pulling a ~350 lb trailer, and they still could not catch a 26 year old bike.

An ohm meter will not show a weak crimp/connection, it will only show a completely open connection. To find a weak connection you have to have that circuit powered with its max amp load (everything on that circuit turned on) and then use a volt meter set on its lowest scale to measure the voltage across the connection, it should always be zero volts. Anything above zero is resistance that is turning some of the power into heat at the connection.

Progress is good. But 50°F is ideal to be outside working on anything. I rode the 25 miles in to work this morning at 52°F in just a short sleeve dress shirt. It was wonderful.

Glad you found it. Did you recrimp the rest of the fuse block? Those cheap crimpers from the hardware store are responsible for a lot of bad crimps. Good crimpers are expensive.

Nice,,,,,, :rotf:Aint gonna happen....... The tail lights should be on the signal fuse and the headlight should be on the head fuse. Did the PO do some creative wiring and put all the running lights on the headlight circuit. Is it possible that somehow the headlight had both the hi and lo beams on at the same time? Bad RLU? Bad headlight bulb? Depending on how it is melted, did the heat come up from the contacts or was it the element that got hot and melted the fuse plastic. If the heat came up from the contacts you likely have a bad connection. It could be a weak grip of the female contact to the fuse blade, or a weak connection of the wire connector to the fuse block or a weak connection at the crimp of the wire to the connector. In any of these cases there will usually be one side of the fuse alot more melted than the other, unless you have bad connections on both sides of the fuse. It has been documented that in some cheap fuses, the element will get hot enough and will melt the plastic instead of blow when run at just a little overload. What color are the wires going into the warm relay?

I did work on one bike for someone that had electrical issues. The problem was traced back to when the fuse panel was replaced one of the wires was pushed to far into the connector and crimped onto the insulation and only luck was making the intermittent electrical connection. The test on the two small wires at the solenoid, one of those wire is the same red/white circuit that is at the fuse panel. This would test to see if power was getting through all of the switches in the whole circuit. If it is not then we know we have to find the fault in the red/white circuit. If there is 12v at both terminals and the jumper cranks the engine, then we know that the fault is in the blue/white circuit and we can proceed to find where that is. But this test does give us a direction to head, and cuts the possibilities in half. I was starting at the end of the circuit to determine if it is a ground issue or a power issue. Sometimes while moving things around during the testing process it can suddenly start working. Then you now have an intermittent issue to trace down. There is no way to find the fault once it all starts working, and there is no way to know how long it will keep working or when/if it will leave you stranded. There is nothing worse that tracking down an intermittent issue. Sometimes (well at least once in a great while) there is actually a method to my madness.

Since that looks like a potted assembly and that the conductors are damaged right where they go into the potting, your only hope is to very carefully remove some of the plastic around the wires to expose the wire, you can then solder new wires onto the remains of the old wire. If you can get this much to work, then fill in the holes you dug around the wires with some epoxy to cover the joint and then after the epoxy is cured build up some RTV around the wires to act as a strain relief. If this does not work then your only choice is to buy a new pump.

I think you just saved a lot of testing... On the solenoid there are the 2 big terminals, one goes to the battery and the other goes to the starter. Since you said that when you jump those 2 the starter cranks, does it start or just crank? There should also be 2 smaller wires going to the solenoid a red/white and a blue/white. With the key turned on check to see if there is 12V on both of those small wires. (Meter negative to battery negative) If there is 12V on both of those wires then connect a jumper from the blue/white to battery negative. This should make the engine crank so be ready for that. Did it crank? Did it start?

When you say you are jumping the solenoid, what exactly are you jumping from and to? Do you still have the original glass fuses?

If they really are coming out with a 2015 it MUST mean that they have finally found a new source for cassette decks. We know that nothing else matters to them.

Taking random pot shots at the issue is the hard way to find the problem. You need to go through this in a logical order to get to everything and not miss something. We will start at the beginning. 1. Disconnect your secondary battery, it might be confusing the issue and the bike does not need 2 batteries. 2. Put the battery on a charger to fully charge it. 3. Take the battery in somewhere to have it load tested. I have seen name brand new bad batteries. If bad get a new one, the old one should be under warranty. 4. Clean the battery terminals. Don't just look at them and see if they look clean. Actually clean them till they are bright and shiny. Same with the terminals on the battery cables. Put the battery back in the bike. 5. Connect your digital volt meter to the battery terminals. what do you get? 6. Turn the bike on, it should be very close to the same as test 5. 7. Hit the start button what voltage do you get? Should be around 10V. What did the bike do? It should have started. What if any noises did you hear? Did the voltage come back to where it was when you let go of the start button? Let us know what you get and we can work from there. There are a lot of things that can cause a no start. We will hit the easy ones first. Trouble shooting on a forum is not a fast or easy way to go, so have patients and we will get through this. I have never been a fan of the throw money and parts at a problem till you get lucky and hit it. It takes longer to do all of the testing to be sure that you are replacing a bad part, but I am cheap. It is comon for these confusing situations to have multiple issues, it is the interaction of the multiple issues that makes it confusing. That is why you need to isolate each component when you are testing it so that some other issue can not change a test result. The only way to get through this is to start at the battery and follow the power through all of the different components in order. It does not matter if something is new, it will still get tested to be sure the new part is good.

:sign yeah that: Ecxept I use a bath towel or a hand towel so that I can soak the whole windshield at once. In a pinch on the road you can cover the WS with paper towels and wet them with just the fluid that is available for the sandpaper squeegee, to soak while you pump gas, and then use your microfiber cloth for the final clean and dry when you are ready to pull out. Another trick is to only wash the WS vertically. It is the horizontal micro scratches that are the most noticeable, especially at night.