Flyinfool

As far as I know there is just one more expensive cutting tool that I need to acquire to be able to make the parts. I was thinking about trying my hand at making my own cutter, I have never tried that yet. It might just be a fun side project. I even have it partly drawn up in cad. To buy a 45° dovetail cutter that is big enough is very expensive @ $200+ It would cost me around $40 to make one with a carbide insert. I have not yet even tried to make the parts out of metal yet, I have only made the plastic parts just to verify my setups and process. This also means that I have no idea if this will actually work. But I no longer have a bike to test on nor anyone local that would be interested in experimenting.

In some places thay already can stop and frisk just because they want to.

A lot of the break action air rifles need a special scope because the recoil is actually backwards. It is not the recoil of the pellet leaving but of the piston traveling forward and hitting the end of its travel. This backwards recoil will tear apart even the good rifle scopes.

I'm in chat allllll alone.........

Somewhere around the equator should be safe, They are out of my range.

What a way to render a truck nearly useless. But it does look cool

Well just for proper closure on this topic. I am now permanently bikeless due to medical stuff. That has pretty much ended this project. If someone wants to pick up where I left off, I would still like to join in to help it along. It was/is a fun project for something that is different.

Carbs have always been a compromise at best. They just never seem to be able to have the perfect mixture across their full range. That is alyas why some people tune for top end and some tune for torque and some for HP and some for cruise. That is also why you can not find much of any new vehicle that still has a carb. I was getting close to finishing the design of converting my Venture to EFI so I could have that near perfect air fuel ratio across the board. In order to not mess with the air handling that the engineers so carefully designed into out bike too much. I was going to convert the CV carb into throttle bodies. This way I keep all of the good air handling designed by those that know a whole lot more than I do and just change the way the fuel is metered and added to the air stream. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?128079-EFI-for-the-Ventures I am now permanently bike less due to medical issues so I will never get to finish this project unless someone wants to get in it with me. I was kind of stalled at needing an expensive milling cutter to make one of the cuts on the part the would hold the actual injector. I was getting closer to just making my own cutter. For me the machining is half of the fun. I may have been all wet with my theories But if I am having fun that is half the battle. At least none of the changes that I was making to the carbs were permanent so I could always go back to carbs quickly and easily, don't even have to take them off the bike. To me carbs have always been a lot of blue smoke and mirrors, I have always been more comfortable playing with electrons, they just make more sense to me.

That depends on where you buy it. Some stores have very liberal return policies. Something worth asking about.

In the current floor I can see the outlines of the trench they dug to put the pipe in originally. My house was built before indoor plumbing was available, so it was added at a later date. I can see where the floor was done one 5 gallon bucket of cement at a time, there is a seam every couple of feet, the edges of the original trench was broken out by hammer so they are jagged, IF I use a saw I will cut outside of the existing trench so that I have room to get a shovel down alongside of the pipe and end up with clean edges. Clean edges also makes it easier to calculate just how much concrete I will need to patch the floor. I am pretty sure that if I try to lift out square sections of floor that they will just crumble with all the seams in them. If I do make saw cuts I will just break up the interior parts. The last area that I did was pretty easy to break, it is really weak cement. Heck even my washing machine feet are working their way into the floor. I had to put steel plates under each foot to spread the load. You should see the plates that are needed under the big heavy machines. If I rent the saw with a vac that is supposed to be dust free and specifically made to collect concrete dust, it is $60 for 4 hours. Goes up to $85 for a full day if I go over the 4 hours. Either way it does not come with a blade. I have to buy the blade for $22 and I get to keep it at the end of the job. I am thinking that 34 feet of cut should take less than 4 hours, that 4 hour clock is only running during store hours. So if I get it in the evening I can have it all night and bring it back in the next morning for the 4 hour rate.

In the current floor I can see the outlines of the trench they dug to put the pipe in originally. My house was built before indoor plumbing was available, so it was added at a later date. I can see where the floor was done one 5 gallon bucket of cement at a time, there is a seam every couple of feet, the edges of the original trench was broken out by hammer so they are jagged, IF I use a saw I will cut outside of the existing trench so that I have room to get a shovel down alongside of the pipe. I am pretty sure that if I try to lift out square section of floor that they will just crumble with all the seams in them. If I do make saw cuts I will just break up the interior parts. The last area that I did was pretty easy to break, it is really weak cement. Heck even my washing machine feet are working their way into the floor. I had to put bigger steel plates under each foot to spread the load. You should see the plates that are needed under the big machines. If I rent the saw with a vac that is supposed to be dust free and specifically made to collect concrete dust, it is $60 for 4 hours. Goes up to $85 for a full day if I go over the 4 hours. Either way it does not come with a blade. I have to buy the blade for $22 and I get to keep it at the end of the job. I am thinking that 34 feet of cut should take less than 4 hours, that 4 hour clock is only running during store hours. So if I get it in the evening I can have it all night and bring it back in the next morning for the 4 hour rate.

I need a hole about 2 feet by 12-15 feet. I am pricing rentals of a saw and vac system. I tried a concrete blade in my circle saw and it was just WAY to much dust, and that was just after the first foot of cut. That much dust is not an option. My basement is full of dust sensitive equipment. It is very hard to shield everything from that very abrasive dust.

I looked at my propane heater and it is a Remington brand 30,000 - 55,000 btu. What is nice with propane or natural gas or electric, it don't stink. Kero or diesel both stink. Of course there are always options and what is/was best for one person may not be at all appropriate for another persons situation. Safety is always appropriate no matter which road you choose.

Every pup I ever got was gun shy at first, It does not take long at all to make them LOVE the sound of a gun going off. They figure out real quick that bang means a mouthful of fur or feathers and to then there aint nuttin better.

I have a small propane torpedo heater That I have used for heating a 2 car garage enough to thaw out several deer that were frozen solid. It only took it a half hour to chase me out of the garage from the heat. I will have to look at it to see what its btu rating is. I also have a 30,000 2 burner radiant heater that mounts to the top of the propane tank. That one work great for use outdoors as it is not trying to heat the air, it is the IR that is heating me. I used to have a 250,000 btu kerosene torpedo heater that I rigged up with a thermostat so it could maintain a temp over long periods of time. When I ran that in a 2 car garage with outside temps near zero F. It would cycle on for 5 minutes and then off for a half hour to keep the temp a steady 65°F. I kept the over head door cracked 3.5 inches (a 2x4 on edge) for ventilation and that was plenty. It was only cold to lay on the floor under a car. because the cold air coming in under the door would hug the floor. When I eventually added a small cheap ceiling fan that helped a LOT. I found out that it was 30°F at the floor and nearly 100°F at the peak of the roof. The fan kept it all close to the same temp. It is also very well worth the money to get a GOOD CO detector that has a readout to tell you what the actual level is, as well as an O2 detector to keep track of the oxygen level. A heater with a flame that does not have an outside exhaust have use up all the oxygen in a garage and has a similar effect to CO poisoning, You don't know you have an issue until it is 2 late. Some heater have a built in shutoff that will put out the fire if the O2 levels get low. NOT all have this and I do not know if I trust it.

I will see if I can find a pawn shop around here. I did check on ebay and Craigs list for used ones in the area. For the 2 times I will use it a used one may be just fine. Based on the last time I had to put a hole in the floor the floor is only about 2 inches thick and a very poor grade of concrete. I was easily able to break it up with a 2 lb ball peen hammer. The floor is just strong enough that my air chisel was not enough. I am going to try to sneak past the washer and dryer and not have to move them. I will put temp feet about 1 foot back from the front and let the feet of the stand hang over air while I work.

Not quite sure which of these it is comparable to. https://www.harborfreight.com/105-amp-1-916-in-sds-max-type-pro-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-kit-63441.html https://www.harborfreight.com/125-Amp-SDS-Max-Type-Pro-Demolition-Hammer-Kit-63437.html Can you get a pic of the data plate on the tool. That should have all the real info.

I never run out of PEST!!!.....

As mentioned the tach is driven from the primary side of the #2 coil, the tach dropping to zero proves you have an electrical issue.

Who me? Put on a wing???? I said it was capable of lifting the front wheel, I never said it was a good idea. i only learned that it could by accident, when a Hardly tried (unsuccessfully) to pass me........But him seeing my front come up sure did get my point across.

The Venture will easily lift the front wheel off the ground in 1st and 2nd gear. I have never seen a stock Venture lift the front in 3rd, 4th or 5th. But it will get light on the front. Even with the weight that she is haulin. And I aint real small either. But then I have never tried real hard to do it either. Approaching red line in 3rd, 4th or 5th exceeds the speed of my guardian angle.

i have a pretty good idea of how heavy they can get. I carried 40 feet of brick chimney out of the house in 5 gal buckets.A little over 500 bricks and I could fit 10 in a 5 gal bucket that weighed about 75 lbs EACH. and the last plumbing fiasco last year around this time was around 25 buckets and I did it all by myself, That one I was under the gun as the plumbing was not functional at the time. At least this time IF I can do it right I can spread out the digging over a week or two, AND I have help lined up, yes it will take a lot of pizza and Hawaiian Punch followed up by a steak dinner. I can also spread the hole filling and cement work out over a month. IF all goes as planned the actual plumbing part should only take a half day from breaking the old pipe to being able to flush again. Yup, there are a LOT of IF's in there.

The kit from Skydoc has an adapter bracket to mount the manifold on the triple tree.

@cowpuc Once we were able to get the drain camera down there with the sonde we were able to pin point the location of the break. It is exactly under my basement wall, which is about 6-7 feet from where the gas co was digging. My plumber pointed out that the gas co has a whole legal team that does nothing but fight claims of them breaking underground stuff. He personally had one case where the gas co fought it even though the gas line went right thru the center of the pipe, easily visible in the sewer cam pics and pics taken during the repair. The gas co lost that one but the home owner still had to take it to court and fight for it. Mine is far enough away that it would be really hard to prove that this was due to the gas co activities, especially with another break dead center of my basement. At least this I am planning to get a small rotary hammer to help break up the floor, and then I have some other plans for that tool so it will not end up a one time use tool. Exactly which one did you get that worked well for you? @mabeline The math says that this will be about 1 yard of material to haul out of the basement and then 1 yard of new material to haul into the basement. 1 yard of material is equal to ~22 bushels or 40 5 gallon buckets. Of course it is not just the hauling it out of the basement it is also the hauling it off for disposal. I did call a local rental place and to rent a conveyor is $130 per day. In talking to the rental place, the conveyor is more made for outdoor use, as it will be very difficult to get it into a basement. Hhhhmmmmmm..... I do have a big shop vac, I wonder if it would lift the dirt out of the basement and then just have 2 people lift it up to dump in the back of my P/U truck, wash rinse and repeat about 20 times.

I think it might be down rite dangerous if we lived across the street from each other....... Maybe even illegal...... I have been told that I do NOT need any encouragement. Just think how accurate I could be with the nozzles at that range, pile it all right in front of your door.....