Flyinfool

I got a MAXI fuse and holder from NAPA for my main fuse.

I would doubt it. I don't think there is enough horsepower to red line 5th. 4th may actually top out higher than 5th. I also do not know of anyone that has what it takes too find out. My limit is 100MPH that is quick enough that I will be waiting at the next DQ for the Harleys and 2nd gens to catch up. On a trip a couple of years ago there was a group of 6 Harleys in the left lane of the interstate I had the cruise set a little faster than they were going so I moved over to the center lane to pass them. They aparently too offence to being passed and I could hear their pipes get louder. they pulled up by and were giving me looks that I did not like so I sped up, their pipes got louder again. Not want to play games I made sure to keep them well behind me. one of them must have had his engine well built because he was able ti punch it and catch up to me again. at that point I decided I had enough of them so at 85 MPH I dropped to 3rd, making sure he knew I down shifted twice, looked at him, smiled, and then hit it and put that last rider with the big engine, in the all gone machine. I think what added to the insult was that I was pulling a ~350 lb trailer, and they still could not catch a 26 year old bike.

An ohm meter will not show a weak crimp/connection, it will only show a completely open connection. To find a weak connection you have to have that circuit powered with its max amp load (everything on that circuit turned on) and then use a volt meter set on its lowest scale to measure the voltage across the connection, it should always be zero volts. Anything above zero is resistance that is turning some of the power into heat at the connection.

Progress is good. But 50°F is ideal to be outside working on anything. I rode the 25 miles in to work this morning at 52°F in just a short sleeve dress shirt. It was wonderful.

Glad you found it. Did you recrimp the rest of the fuse block? Those cheap crimpers from the hardware store are responsible for a lot of bad crimps. Good crimpers are expensive.

Nice,,,,,, :rotf:Aint gonna happen....... The tail lights should be on the signal fuse and the headlight should be on the head fuse. Did the PO do some creative wiring and put all the running lights on the headlight circuit. Is it possible that somehow the headlight had both the hi and lo beams on at the same time? Bad RLU? Bad headlight bulb? Depending on how it is melted, did the heat come up from the contacts or was it the element that got hot and melted the fuse plastic. If the heat came up from the contacts you likely have a bad connection. It could be a weak grip of the female contact to the fuse blade, or a weak connection of the wire connector to the fuse block or a weak connection at the crimp of the wire to the connector. In any of these cases there will usually be one side of the fuse alot more melted than the other, unless you have bad connections on both sides of the fuse. It has been documented that in some cheap fuses, the element will get hot enough and will melt the plastic instead of blow when run at just a little overload. What color are the wires going into the warm relay?

I did work on one bike for someone that had electrical issues. The problem was traced back to when the fuse panel was replaced one of the wires was pushed to far into the connector and crimped onto the insulation and only luck was making the intermittent electrical connection. The test on the two small wires at the solenoid, one of those wire is the same red/white circuit that is at the fuse panel. This would test to see if power was getting through all of the switches in the whole circuit. If it is not then we know we have to find the fault in the red/white circuit. If there is 12v at both terminals and the jumper cranks the engine, then we know that the fault is in the blue/white circuit and we can proceed to find where that is. But this test does give us a direction to head, and cuts the possibilities in half. I was starting at the end of the circuit to determine if it is a ground issue or a power issue. Sometimes while moving things around during the testing process it can suddenly start working. Then you now have an intermittent issue to trace down. There is no way to find the fault once it all starts working, and there is no way to know how long it will keep working or when/if it will leave you stranded. There is nothing worse that tracking down an intermittent issue. Sometimes (well at least once in a great while) there is actually a method to my madness.

Since that looks like a potted assembly and that the conductors are damaged right where they go into the potting, your only hope is to very carefully remove some of the plastic around the wires to expose the wire, you can then solder new wires onto the remains of the old wire. If you can get this much to work, then fill in the holes you dug around the wires with some epoxy to cover the joint and then after the epoxy is cured build up some RTV around the wires to act as a strain relief. If this does not work then your only choice is to buy a new pump.

I think you just saved a lot of testing... On the solenoid there are the 2 big terminals, one goes to the battery and the other goes to the starter. Since you said that when you jump those 2 the starter cranks, does it start or just crank? There should also be 2 smaller wires going to the solenoid a red/white and a blue/white. With the key turned on check to see if there is 12V on both of those small wires. (Meter negative to battery negative) If there is 12V on both of those wires then connect a jumper from the blue/white to battery negative. This should make the engine crank so be ready for that. Did it crank? Did it start?

When you say you are jumping the solenoid, what exactly are you jumping from and to? Do you still have the original glass fuses?

If they really are coming out with a 2015 it MUST mean that they have finally found a new source for cassette decks. We know that nothing else matters to them.

Taking random pot shots at the issue is the hard way to find the problem. You need to go through this in a logical order to get to everything and not miss something. We will start at the beginning. 1. Disconnect your secondary battery, it might be confusing the issue and the bike does not need 2 batteries. 2. Put the battery on a charger to fully charge it. 3. Take the battery in somewhere to have it load tested. I have seen name brand new bad batteries. If bad get a new one, the old one should be under warranty. 4. Clean the battery terminals. Don't just look at them and see if they look clean. Actually clean them till they are bright and shiny. Same with the terminals on the battery cables. Put the battery back in the bike. 5. Connect your digital volt meter to the battery terminals. what do you get? 6. Turn the bike on, it should be very close to the same as test 5. 7. Hit the start button what voltage do you get? Should be around 10V. What did the bike do? It should have started. What if any noises did you hear? Did the voltage come back to where it was when you let go of the start button? Let us know what you get and we can work from there. There are a lot of things that can cause a no start. We will hit the easy ones first. Trouble shooting on a forum is not a fast or easy way to go, so have patients and we will get through this. I have never been a fan of the throw money and parts at a problem till you get lucky and hit it. It takes longer to do all of the testing to be sure that you are replacing a bad part, but I am cheap. It is comon for these confusing situations to have multiple issues, it is the interaction of the multiple issues that makes it confusing. That is why you need to isolate each component when you are testing it so that some other issue can not change a test result. The only way to get through this is to start at the battery and follow the power through all of the different components in order. It does not matter if something is new, it will still get tested to be sure the new part is good.

:sign yeah that: Ecxept I use a bath towel or a hand towel so that I can soak the whole windshield at once. In a pinch on the road you can cover the WS with paper towels and wet them with just the fluid that is available for the sandpaper squeegee, to soak while you pump gas, and then use your microfiber cloth for the final clean and dry when you are ready to pull out. Another trick is to only wash the WS vertically. It is the horizontal micro scratches that are the most noticeable, especially at night.

Only if you need them. A new disc will not grip any better than a used disc that is still in spec. OEM friction discs are 3mm (0.1181 inche) thick, worn out is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch) thick. My discs measured 0.1170 inch thick at 45,000 miles. I reused them.

Well at least this time you are feeding the better half....... Stop getting lost and get on down there before it is time to come home.

The HID make down the road visibility better not because the are usually 6000K, but because the make a lot more light. The light source in an HID is basically the same thing as the arc from a welder. It is just very bright for the watts that it uses. If possible I will always have HID on my bike till I see something better. LED is getting close but is not quite there yet. A dedicated LED in a housing designed for that LED will do a great job lighting up the road so the technology of getting a LED to produce enough light is there. Now we just need the light makers to make housings to make use of the LED light source. There is no replacement LED bulb (That I have seen) that will focus properly when swapped into a housing not designed for it. Even a HID swap is not perfect in a housing made for incandescent but is pretty darn close, and is acceptable (to me) as long as you take the time to aim it properly. I have tried the High wattage incandescent bulbs, they are bright, no problems there, but they draw a LOT of power and get really hot. The heat can melt the connector, many have had to switch to a ceramic connector to handle the heat. The power draw may be an issue if you have other power hungry things like heated gear or other additional lighting. So there is good and bad in all of the technologies that are available. You have to decide which advantages will outweigh which disadvantages for you. That is why you have seen several different opinions on which is the best way to get more light on the road. Each of these people chose which features were most important to them in their situation.

You always have the option to laugh at him and then make a counter offer equally insulting to the dealer and then offer to meet in the middle.

The 6000k only defines the color of the light. The higher the number the bluer the light. That 6000K has nothing at all to due with brightness which is what you need to see at night. A lot of advertising likes to make it look like the color number is the brightness just because it is a big number. Anything over 6000K is getting so blue that it will be hard to see at all, but it looks cool to some.... 4300K is a bit yellowish 5000K is very close to white light. 6000K is starting to show some blue but not bad yet. 7000K is getting pretty blue for cosmetic purposes and starting to get harder to see. My headlight is a 6000K only because at the time I bought it they did not make a 5000K.

There are some 2nd gens there so there should be plenty of whine........

A trickle charger is not good to leave connected to any lead acid battery long term. A battery maintainer is different than a trickle charger. A maintainer can be left on all the time. A maintainer has circuitry to measure the battery voltage and only give it more charge if it actually needs it. Some maintainers also have circuitry to desulfate the plates. The same one will work equally well on any size of lead acid battery. A trickle charger just keeps pumping in power whether the battery needs it or not. This is also not best for long term storage battery health.

Go git um.........

0.5% THD is also pretty bad. Most people with normal hearing would not be happy with it. The stereo on my bike is a Kenwood, 30W per channel 0.15% THD and I am not happy with that. It will be getting upgraded one of these days. I just can't decide on what I want to get.

Speaking of magnets for screws and nails. I put a very powerful N52 magnet on the bottom of my bike to help with traffic lights. I often find screws, nails, and other steel trash stuck to it. I figure every one of those was looking for my back tire.

Nothing feels better than a job well done. But I would still look into adding the relay, even if you have to sneak the wire along some where until you get around to pulling the tank.

More interesting tidbits. They have already fitted it to a Yamaha V4....... :bikersmilie: