Flyinfool

There was something like this floating around a few years back. The problem that they were not able to overcome at that time was turning while at speed. The gyros were fighting the lean causing great instability. Notice they only show the bike stay standing when t-boned in an animation, the impact will still do great damage to you even IF the bike stays up. You also do not have the bail out option while sitting in an egg. I'll stick to remembering to putt my feet down when I stop.

You can still get the stock replacement or put in an aftermarket higher output version. From what I have been reading, I do not think the HO versions live as long but can put out more power.

You could always get a tach something like this one. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Inductive-Tach-Meter-Stroke-Engine/dp/B00DDK0XN8]Amazon.com : Inductive Tach/hour Meter for 4 Stroke Gas Engine New : Saddles : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41W6n7EwTNL.@@AMEPARAM@@41W6n7EwTNL[/ame] Due to the venture having a wasted spark system you will need to divide the reading by 2 to get the actual, but it will do what you need and it is cheap.

Start with the easy stuff. Check all the fuses. Check the 6 pin connector under the seat on the left side for power on all the wires that should have it. that connector will tell you if the problem is in the front or the back of the bike.

A small exhaust leak? I am no carb guru by any stretch but I thought I remember reading that there is a decel enrichment feature in our carbs. So if at idle setting during decel the mixture is richened there may be some unburnt fuel in the exhaust, a leak lets in some air and it is hot enough to burn that excess fuel for the pops and bangs. This is just a pure WAG on my part. :confused24: :confused24:

Same theory, if by letting it thicken up did enough of the solvents evaporate out to not dissolve enough of the parent material to get a good bond? With the exception of contact cement, I have never used an adhesive that works well to join the parts after partial drying. Don't mean that there ain't none, just I have not used one.

You get those docs on the shtick to make you all better. Sept 20 at the Hardly Museum is coming quick. Ya don't want 2 of your babies POed at ya do ya?

2 things. 1. You said that you let it firm up before attaching to the ABS part. Once any epoxy has started to harden it can not be applied to another surface and expect a good bond. If it has started to cure, some of the chemical bonds have already happened and are no longer available for bonding to the other surface. 2. Epoxies bond by conforming to the surface irregularities. To get a decent bond you can not have a smooth surface. The more you rough it up with sand paper the more and bigger the edges that the epoxy has to hold on to. What I have done for missing tabs or other parts of ABS is to get a sheet of ABS of about the correct thickness. I get mine at a local Hobby shop or from the scrap bin at work (we make a lot of parts out of sheet ABS). I cut out the replacement part out of the sheet of ABS to as good of a fit as I can get. I will also clean up the edges of the broken part to give nice straight lines to make fabricating the new part easier. You can also form the sheet with some heat if what you need is not a flat part. I then bond it in place using Plumbing cement made for ABS pipe. This type of cement chemically melts the plastics and welds the two parts together. If it is a structural area like a tab, I then coat the area with the cement and add a piece of fiberglass cloth (also from a local hobby shop) pressed into the fresh wet cement until the cloth is clear, while it is still wet, but partly cured, I will apply a little more cement and rub it thru the cloth. Once cured over night, the new tab will now be stronger than the original tab. Fill, sand, prime, and paint to suit. I have a broken bag lid with a big chunk missing, I really should do a step by step write up on this method some day. It is very strong and easy to do.

There just has to be a BFH in that tool shed somewhere.......

Looks good. I might have scarred off some with my writeup.

So don't keep us in suspense...... Did you study enough for your test to pass?

Most of what you need can be gotten all from one place. See Skydoc_17 in the classifieds. With the progressive front springs you no longer need the anti dives. Most people don't even need any air pressure in the front shocks either. There is a kit to replace all of the brake lines with braided stainless, and delink the front and rear brakes. He also has the brake pads and cylinder rebuild kits. None of this requires any cutting or welding.

Great news Skid.

I guess I never looked at or installed the plate bracket, In WI trailers under 3,000 GVW are not titled or plated. (unless you wish to send the state a bunch of money to do so, then they will do a title and plates )

That non stock filter is something to keep in the back of your mind. These bikes are very sensitive to changes in the air delivery system. Many, but not all, have had to mess with the carb jets after changing to a non stock air filter. Yous may or may not have been messed with. If your carbs were adjusted to the new filter then you do not want to switch back to stock. if you carbs were never adjusted, to the new filter, it may run better with the stock filter. just drilling a 1/2 inch hole in the side of the air box for more air was enough to make some bikes run poorly.

+1 on using the HF LED light kit. I have it on mine and it is very bright. I would not go the rout of putting LED bulbs into the stock light housings. You will spend more for good LED bulbs ($25 each) that will still be a compromise over a dedicated LED light. Whether you go 4 wire or 5 wire, it is all personal preference, I would still use an isolator either way so that all of the trailer power is not coming through the bikes ignition switch, It is well documented that the ignition switch is the weak link in the electrical system on these bikes. There are some small isolator/converters out there. When you wire the trailer, run a separate white ground wire to all lights, do not rely on a ground to a steel frame that is going to rust at the connection no matter what you do. 90% of trailer lighting issues are bad ground related. But you still should have that white wire connected to the frame somewhere just so the frame is grounded to the bike. Do a good job checking the wheel alignment, there have been some trailers with so much toe in/out that the tires were bald in under 2K miles. A slight toe in is better than a tow out. Zero toe is best. I also added a high mounted center brake / turn / running light from Super Bright LEDs. It is their 11 LED model It has the 2 outer and center LEDs lit as running lights then the whole thing lights up for Brake lights or half for turn. I am not using the turn option. The stock Light location is so low that someone following close may not see them. I feel that you really need some light right up in the face of who ever is following you. There are many configurations of this light possible depending on what you decide as to 4 or 5 wire set up.

Sorry to hear that this happened. But then it may be a blessing in disguise. If that spot on your lung turns out to be something serious then you may have caught it very early while it is easily treatable. Sure I'll go flyin or ridin with you, But in either case, I'm drivin.......

I would go and talk to the inspector before doing a lot of work "fixing" little things. My guess is that they are trying to avoid people getting collector plates on obvious junk or heavily modified custom jobs just for the lower plate cost. I doubt that the inspector is that intimately knowledgeable about every possible accessory on every possible vehicle. There is always the chance that the inspector will let everything fly as is. Then you can fix what you want to fix as you have time to mess with it. Also check into driving requirements with collector plates. Some states have severe limits on how much you can drive a collector. In Wisconsin the only driving requirement is that you can not drive a collector plated vehicle during the month of January. And that is not a big deal in Wisconsin winters. In other states you can only drive a collector to and from a rally or show.

If the date code is less than 5 years old I would use them. It s recommended to not run tires more than 6 years old. 90 -100° is not an issue. They get a lot hotter than that in normal use. Temps in the teens is also not an issue. Up here mine have seen temps while parked in the shed range from -20°F up to 140°F, with so signs of cracking or other issues. The only issue you may have is if they have been laying on their side all that time they may have flattened out some and you may have to work a little harder to get the bead to seat. As soon as they get up to pressure they will take on their designed shape and be just fine.

Puc, Puc, Puc, what are we going to do with you. If you don't get better soon I will have to send you some special snow to kill off the bugs that might be hanging around you. Hows that for a threat......... But really, get better soon. They say laughter is the best medicine, come visit us in chat, we'll fix ya up real good.

MAMA I did not get home from my planned outing till after 10:00pm, just had time to shower and hit the sack. I'll be in tonight, I know you wanted details....... or pics????

Very glad you were able to keep it upright. And stories like this help us that do not hove your experience level. My first reaction to a situation like yours would have been to lightly use the REAR brake. From your account and what others have added I see that I would have been toast. It is reading stories like this that I really wish I had the opportunity to have gone thru the dirt bike phase while I was still young, immortal, and able to heal fast. tx2sturgis, the linked brakes would not have mattered, You would still get just front brake with the application of front brake. Or am I still missing something.

Very nice find, and its even the bestest, fastest color too. Why do you need a new reflector to get it registered? I know every state is different, but in WI collector plate rules state that the vehicle must be predominately stock. Here they do not quibble over additional lighting since that is adding safety. As for the holes in the trunk, can you find out what was mounted there? Maybe it was a good idea.

Any one can follow the heard. I fully understand wanting to be different. I have never seen another venture quite like mine. Can you post some night pics of the beam pattern on a wall. They call then spot driving fog lamps. Spot driving is a narrow beam for lighting up distance down the road, and Fog lights have a very wide beam with a sharp top cutoff to light up the sides of the road to see deer coming but keep the beam low to avoid glare in the fog. I am after some very bright fog lights. These sure do look like they have the bright part down.

And here where things are nice and stable we get all excited over a 2 or 3 mag wiggle.