Flyinfool

I was on last night. All alone.......

Cool, glad you got it fixed and we were of some help. Hmmmm...... You say the fuse was slid over? That implies that you still have the stock glass fuses. Those stock glass fuses have been the root cause of MANY electrical gremlins for many people. There are a lot of people that have spent many days troubleshooting a bad glass fuse holder. I would recommend upgrading to a modern ATC fuse block. Even if you are not the most handy with electrical, SkyDoc_17 in the classifieds sells a kit with everything you need and good instructions. The fuse upgrade will save you a lot of grief down the road. The 4 relays are only a good idea if they are wired as an isolator and the trailer is a 5 wire setup. The standard auto type relay like those will wear out, especially for the turn signals. How hard would it be to replace one of those relays on the side of the road?

You were not eating colored snow were you??????

:sign yeah that: SearchTempest is also my choice when searching more than my immediate area. Search tempest lets you specify a search distance, min / max price and other features. It can also search other for sale sites at the same time.

I am not sure what all a plasma TV can feed back into the line. Hence my post way up in this thread. Forget what?????

I live a block away from the Patrick Cudahy Plant where they are making bacon 24/7. The prevailing wind is from the direction of the plant so my house always smells like fresh bacon. I have lived here for 30+ years and still have not tired of bacon.

Another reason Yamaha is better. You need to use the key to lock the trunk. It is nearly impossible to lock the key in the trunk. If you are creative you can accomplish it.

In the context of this thread we are talking about a satellite receiver causing the circuit to trip. That is very different than an induction motor. I do not think it is possible for the dish receiver to pull enough amps to make a bad connection get hot, unless the receiver is defective. As others have mentioned it could be the spark at plugin causing the arc breaker to trip, or it could be a miss-wire causing the breaker to see a current loss and trip. I will be very curious to learn what the final determination is. I hate to hijack threads, But I also hate to see wrong information put out there. Most of the things on a house circuit are not motors. When you quote me please use the whole explanation. The very next sentence explains why this does not work in this specific case. We disagree on the reasons but do agree on the end result. I agree with what you say except for the part of increasing resistance increases amps. Ohms law is widely accepted and says otherwise. That is why it is ohms law and not ohms theory. The bad connection and its heat does NOT increase amps. SOME (not all) devices that can be connected to a circuit CAN (not will) draw more amps as voltage drops due to increased resistance. Most household breakers are heat tripped. Unless the bad connection is close enough to the breaker to conduct heat into the breaker and cause the breaker to get hot, the bad connection will not trip the breaker. I don't know how many ways to say it. Increased resistance will not increase amps. If it did it would violate the laws of physics as mankind currently understands them.

Ohms law says I = E / R, or Amps = Volts / Resistance. This is accepted by everyone that knows about electricity. Amps never go up just because of an increase in resistance. So if a bad connection increases resistance, which we all agree it will. The Amps will go down. Its simple math. It gets confusing when you add inductance, like a motor. In a motor there are magnetic fields moving all around and creates what is called impedance. Impedance is similar to resistance but only effects AC circuits. It impedes or slows down the electricity. this keeps the motors power consumption down to a safe level. If you lock the shaft of a motor so that it can not turn when the power comes on it will draw a huge amount of amps because you have eliminated the impedance created by the moving magnetic fields. The bottom line is that a bad connection by itself will not increase amps. Some other things on the circuit might increase their amp draw to try to compensate for the reduced voltage of a bad connection which would have the affect of raising amp draw. You can never make the blanket statement that a bad connection will increase amps. It is whats on the circuit that will determine the amp draw.

Glad to hear it alive. Now get out and abuse it.....

A loose connection will increase resistance and reduce voltage. That much we can all agree on. (WARNING: Semi technical crap to follow) As to whether amps go up or down from this condition depends on what the load is. At face value, ohms laws says that as resistance goes up voltage will go down and thus amps will go down. A resistive load like a light will cause lower amp draw in accordance with ohms law. BUT, then you throw in inductance like the windings of a motor and the rules seem to change. An inductive load like a motor will cause an increase in amps. In a motor when voltage is reduced the amps try to go down and this causes the motor to slow down, just like ohms law says it should. But then due to the lower amps the inductance also goes down, in a coil of wire this has the effect of reducing the resistance and makes the amps go up. This is why the more load that you put on a motor the slower it goes and the higher the amps. The reduced voltage is reducing the available horse power effectively increasing the load on the motor and it draws more amps. Some electronics can present both an inductive load and a resistive load in varying amounts of each. It depends on what it is and how it is designed. The heat of a bad connection will only trip the breaker if that bad connection is at the breaker and causes the breaker its self to heat up. :sign yeah that:

I wonder if adding an isolation transformer would filter the plasma enough to prevent tripping the arc fault?

They better hurry back and switch off that volcano...... Or at least duck......

Yup, we will need pics of the 4 of you on your Venture after the HD breaks down. Remember to stop and wait for the HD to catch up at every ice cream stand....

Last night Yammer and BJ popped in a minute after you bailed out. How did you know he was coming????

Welcome aboard. You will probably like that 2nd gen bike for a long time. Those of us with the older 1st gen Ventures will always wait for you to catch up at the next ice cream stand..... Now that you have joined the nut house, you do realize that you can never leave. 1400 miles in 2 weeks is pretty good. AND we do have rules on this site, If there is no pictures, it didn't happen.

Well today is the day. You counting minutes yet? No more free time for you after today.

There was something like this floating around a few years back. The problem that they were not able to overcome at that time was turning while at speed. The gyros were fighting the lean causing great instability. Notice they only show the bike stay standing when t-boned in an animation, the impact will still do great damage to you even IF the bike stays up. You also do not have the bail out option while sitting in an egg. I'll stick to remembering to putt my feet down when I stop.

You can still get the stock replacement or put in an aftermarket higher output version. From what I have been reading, I do not think the HO versions live as long but can put out more power.

You could always get a tach something like this one. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Inductive-Tach-Meter-Stroke-Engine/dp/B00DDK0XN8]Amazon.com : Inductive Tach/hour Meter for 4 Stroke Gas Engine New : Saddles : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41W6n7EwTNL.@@AMEPARAM@@41W6n7EwTNL[/ame] Due to the venture having a wasted spark system you will need to divide the reading by 2 to get the actual, but it will do what you need and it is cheap.

Start with the easy stuff. Check all the fuses. Check the 6 pin connector under the seat on the left side for power on all the wires that should have it. that connector will tell you if the problem is in the front or the back of the bike.

A small exhaust leak? I am no carb guru by any stretch but I thought I remember reading that there is a decel enrichment feature in our carbs. So if at idle setting during decel the mixture is richened there may be some unburnt fuel in the exhaust, a leak lets in some air and it is hot enough to burn that excess fuel for the pops and bangs. This is just a pure WAG on my part. :confused24: :confused24:

Same theory, if by letting it thicken up did enough of the solvents evaporate out to not dissolve enough of the parent material to get a good bond? With the exception of contact cement, I have never used an adhesive that works well to join the parts after partial drying. Don't mean that there ain't none, just I have not used one.

You get those docs on the shtick to make you all better. Sept 20 at the Hardly Museum is coming quick. Ya don't want 2 of your babies POed at ya do ya?

2 things. 1. You said that you let it firm up before attaching to the ABS part. Once any epoxy has started to harden it can not be applied to another surface and expect a good bond. If it has started to cure, some of the chemical bonds have already happened and are no longer available for bonding to the other surface. 2. Epoxies bond by conforming to the surface irregularities. To get a decent bond you can not have a smooth surface. The more you rough it up with sand paper the more and bigger the edges that the epoxy has to hold on to. What I have done for missing tabs or other parts of ABS is to get a sheet of ABS of about the correct thickness. I get mine at a local Hobby shop or from the scrap bin at work (we make a lot of parts out of sheet ABS). I cut out the replacement part out of the sheet of ABS to as good of a fit as I can get. I will also clean up the edges of the broken part to give nice straight lines to make fabricating the new part easier. You can also form the sheet with some heat if what you need is not a flat part. I then bond it in place using Plumbing cement made for ABS pipe. This type of cement chemically melts the plastics and welds the two parts together. If it is a structural area like a tab, I then coat the area with the cement and add a piece of fiberglass cloth (also from a local hobby shop) pressed into the fresh wet cement until the cloth is clear, while it is still wet, but partly cured, I will apply a little more cement and rub it thru the cloth. Once cured over night, the new tab will now be stronger than the original tab. Fill, sand, prime, and paint to suit. I have a broken bag lid with a big chunk missing, I really should do a step by step write up on this method some day. It is very strong and easy to do.