Flyinfool

I have a set of the #74 bulbs from Super Bright LED for my cruise lights, but have not got around to installing them yet, so I do not know if they will fit (They look to be physically bigger than the incandescent bulbs) or how well they will work. I suppose I need to get my butt in gear and get that done one of these days...... My "Set" is intermittent, it could be a wiring issue, a loose bulb or a bulb ready to burn out.

I was loosing coolant for a while with no visible source. It turned out to be a leak in the freeze plug behind the side covers and the heat of the engine was evaporating the coolant before it could get to a point of being visible. But that oil water mix in the air cleaner does not sound good. How high on the sight glass do you fill the oil? If it is filled over half it will pump the extra oil into the air cleaner. Did you recently ride in heavy rain? that could account for the water in the air cleaner. Did you try Seafoam? I would try a good dose of Seafoam in the gas and some more in the engine oil (per instruction on the can) to attack the sticky ring from both sides. Maybe you can get lucky and have it loosen up. Have someone follow you to see if you have steam or oil smoke coming out the exhaust on hard acceleration, cruise or hard engine braking. Hopefully someone that knows the difference between steam and smoke out the exhaust.

Sounds like you are ready to hit the road. Now you just need to find enough stuff to fill it up.

I was only a trial member for a couple of days and that was many years ago. Can a trial member use the PM or email systems to contact members?

Have to careful with that statement. I have never seen a LED that will take 12v without a resistor. The lamps you are thinking of are rated at 12v because they have a built in resistor. What you need is a type 74 bulb. It is nothing specific to Yamaha. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Sylvania-Map-Light-Mini-Bulb/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=16841

Not hearing them is a benefit. BUT if the phone is in the tour pac and you go down, you may not be able to get to it. I prefer to have the phone with me, There is a better chance I will be able to use it if it is on me. I usually have it in a zippered pocket. Even if it does ring, I can not hear it.

Judging from the website, they can make wider and/or longer. Give them a call. Since you have time, you may be able to find a slightly used flat bed trailer. I am not sure how wide a 2nd gen is, but my 1st gen is 39 inches at the widest point.

I used to live across the street from some outlaw members, I attended many of their parties. Never saw them give issue to anyone in the neighborhood.

At least the stone is now passed. Hoping you feel better real quick.

My Craftsman standard 6 point 18mm deep 3/8 drive socket works well also. Your 5/8 plug socket is equivalent to just under 16mm, so it can not possibly work on an 18mm plug.

As Snaggle said. It is not a hard job to do, but it does take a lot of effort to get the flywheel to POP off. When you are pulling to get it off, have something soft for it to land on. I tied a rope (string will break) from the puller to the frame to keep it from flying across the shed when it finally did let go. If you search, there are a bunch of interesting stories of getting that flywheel off. As mentioned, no heat or hammering, either can kill the magnets.

I also have the starter clutch upgrade from Dano. I have read way to many stories of people spending the $180 to replace with all of required OEM parts only to be doing it again in 2 years. I am not sure what the current prices are for the OEM or for Danos mod, but It is sure worth the extra money to never have to worry about it again. Snaggles was the first one that Dano did, mine was the second. My bike is mostly used running around town so it gets a lot of starts.

Just doing some quick looking at R&P Carriages. A 7 x 18 trailer with two 3500 lb axles in basic form is about $1800 new. And it is designed for the weight and built by someone that builds trailers for a living, with warranty, title and all of the other good stuff. Lots of options that you can add to it $$. Just a thought At 7 foot wide I think you could get 2 big touring bikes side by side, and then the 18 foot length would be plenty. Just a thought.

:sign yeah that: You are betting the value of 4 bikes and the structural design abilities and craftsmanship of the guy that built it. Whith all of the work and money he put into this trailer very recently he may have realized the first time he used it that the geometry is all wrong with the wheels way to far back. That may be part of why it is cheap. As a test, mark off an area in your driveway that is 6 feet x 22 feet and see if you can simulate getting 4 bikes on without ever anyones foot touching down outside the lines and only entering the box from the small end. I think you are going to have a hard time fitting 4 big bikes in that space. Once you do get the bikes into that space, then consider where the tie down straps will have to go and is there still room to do that. You will also need new longer smoother ramps to drive the bikes up and not hi-center at the edge of the trailer.

I have a co worker that lost his phone while riding. After 2 days of looking he found it. Other than a good case of road rash it still works fine.

Stator, rotor, transmission. If your old motor did not have a bad whine, then you will want the whole clutch basket. I'm sure there is more.

It was meeting night last night, by the time I got home everyone must have fallen asleep already zzzzzzzzzzzz..........

I found you.

The SNOW does not have to stay here, I am very willing to share some with all of my friends. . . . . You should see what I do to my enemies.... :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2:

:sign yeah that: The tach is driven off of the primary side of the #2 coil. The fact that the tach is dropping to zero when the cylinder drops out means that the problem is on the primary side of the #2 coil. A carb or plug cap problem would not drop out the tach. It is easy to slap a volt meter on to be sure that the charging system is putting out the full voltage. Low voltage on these bikes causes all sorts of weird things. Clean all of the connectors in the primary side. Clean all of the grounds.

So where are you hiding???? I even went into the ladies room to look for you.

I am not sure on the 2nd gen but on a first gen when the last bar goes out, there is real close to 1 gallon left in the tank. This is by design. That last gallon is the reserve.

:sign yeah that: I have see single tank MPG range from 50 to 16 MPG depending on conditions. 50 was 1 up with a good tail wind. 16 was pulling a trailer with the cruise at 80 into a 40MPH quartering headwind.

Fuel pump would not stop it from cranking or stop the lights from going on.

That is definitely on the low end of mileage. There are a few that claim to get 45-50 MPG out of a venture but they are few and far between. From all of the mpg posts that I have read right around 40 is what to realistically expect. Sync may help a little, but not that much. Are there any accessories on the bike that are hanging out in the wind, like air deflectors or a bigger windshield? On the day that you were out riding, what was the wind like? Head winds and cross winds can eat up extra gas.