Flyinfool

Isn't that the motto of the Chicago Cubs and Minnesota Vikings????

With your eyes closed......

To be fair it is theoretically possible to devise such an electronic contraption. It would have to connect up to all 4 sync ports and by monitoring the vacuum/pressure pulses you could determine the total duration that the valve is open. As the valve train wears on these engines the clearance gets smaller which would cause the duration to get longer. The same would hold true on the exhaust side. They would need to connect up to each of the 4 exhaust pipes (is there even a port existing to do this?) to monitor the pressure pulses to determine the exact moment that the valves open or close. Since we have 4 valves per cylinder, there are 2 intake valves opening and closing at the same time, one of these could be out but be masked by the other one that is not out, because something opened and closed at the right time. Again same holds true for the exhaust. The difficulty would be to be able to detect that very first moment when the valve just barely starts to open by monitoring a pressure change that is some distance from the valve. When that valve is just opening by less than a thousandth of an inch, is there even a measurable change in pressure several inches from that valve where the monitor would be hooked up? I can see with modern electronics and computers that the system could detect valves that are way out of whack, but I strongly doubt that it is possible to detect valves that are only slightly out of spec either high or low.

On their website it states that the fuel savings are only due to putting in a higher temp switch for the radiator fan so that the fan is drawing power less often. Our cooling fans never run at speed so there would be zero savings on MPG. Diesel trucks on the other hand spend a lot of time idling and running the fan.

The cam chains are between the cylinders so it would not be heard on one side over the other. You have something else rattling. If you had it lugged down far enough it might have been the gears bouncing around making noise. Just another WAG.

My vote is you need to find a new dealer.

Like that even could ever happen.......

So around $426 to put it in my truck!!!! It better be better than good stuff. The stuff in there now is already good.

And a fine grocery list it was. We will be well fed.

Just how expensive is it? They are real careful to not mention price on their website even with the bright red "Order Here" tab, which only tells me that there is not a dealer within 300 miles of me. And how much is the conversion fluid that you have to run thru first?

So Condor is Mr Twinkie......

There is good news and bad news here. The good news is that you have all but eliminated carb issues as the culprit. The bad news is that it is an intermittent electrical issue. The worst thing to find. There are a lot of electrical things that can cause your symptoms. The big clue here is that the tach drops to zero when the engine stumbles. This means that there is no longer a signal being sent to the #2 coil. If it was just the #2 cylinder dropping out you would hardly notice it at all in the running. This means that you have multiple cylinders dropping at the same time. As Frank mentioned the cruise is a indicator of power to the ignition. If the "ON" light flickers dims or goes out while the engine is stumbling then you know that that circuit is the problem. I would start by checking all of the power and grounds to the ignition system and clean the kill switch. They are the easiest things to do.

I love finding those in the woods when the deer flies are buzzing around my head. I just hold my head close to the web and give ol spidy a treat.

Never say never.......

The best parties are always in the ladies room....... Next time pop in and see whats popin.

You are trouble, nuttin but trouble I tell ya....... Hmmmm....... Maybe that thing would let me make the special adapter for Cowpucs snow machine to be able to send some snow down into a Green Valley somewhere.........:stirthepot:

And while doing some maintenance work on one of my machines just this weekend we were talking about SNOW. We have been known to have SNOW starting in September around here. As for color or colour rides........white is a color / colour.....

Just don't try to fit a venture in there He had to have helpers to hold the sides apart so he could fit thru

Dang it, Stop posting toys like that where I can see it.........:mo money:

Great news that they found something fixable. Now follow Dr's directions so you and Olivia can swim over here in a couple of weeks.

Yes the rectifier and regulator are built into the same housing and are replaced as a unit.

I may be able to pop in a few times tonight. I have lots of baking to do. I have to make Rumballs and Apple Pie for 350 people and finish both tonight .... Leaving early tomorrow morning to head north with the incendiaries packed in the truck.

There are many steps involved. 1. Find time and ambition to clean workbench to find the safe location bulbs were put. 2. Find screwdriver in back of truck. (did you ever look in the back of my truck?):whistling: 3. Take apart cruise display. OK this part is quick and easy. 4. Repair cracks in housing as long as it is apart. 5. Install LEDs and hook up to check polarity. 6. Reverse bulbs that are backwards. 7. Put it all back together and put away tools. OK this part is pretty easy too. 8. Go for a test ride (This also can take a long time since I tend to get lost when going for a test ride.....) 9. Go for another test ride (see #7) at night to see if they are to bright. 10. Write up a test report for you to study....... See, not so easy as it sounds.....

When changing to LED you almost always want to match the LED color to the lens color. This might just be the one case where you really do want less light so the white might be better:confused24:. The LED replacements that I bought are color matched but are not very bright either so we will see once I get around to installing them. I was kind of hoping for bright enough to be easy to see in full sunlight, and was thinking of making a dimmer to tone them down at night. When I changed all of the rest of the dash lights to LED, I just plugged in the bulb. If it lit I had the polarity correct, if it did not I just puled the bulb and turned it around. I had a 50/50 chance of having each one right on the first try, and was 100% right on the second try. Much faster and easier than getting out the volt meter to find polarity. If these LEDs last the rated 50,000 hours, I'll be pushin daisies before I have to replace them.

It does but you will end up permanently damaged if you ever do read and understand a womans mind.....