Flyinfool

Stupid puter.......

Since you have pulled the B/W wire from the TCI it can not be the side stand switch or side stand relay since they work by grounding the B/W wire from the TCI. On the bigger of the 2 connectors on the TCI check for 12V from the Red/White to the black wire. This will verify both the power and ground sides of the ignition. It normally would sound like 2 distinct issues with the brake and ignition going out at the same time, they are very unrelated. But since the PO was playing with the wiring, anything might be possible. As for the brake switch, that sounds like a mess. from what you are describing it sounds like the PO bypassed the Computer monitor and wired the brake switches direct to the brake bulbs. The computer monitors are very well known for bad solder joints that if/when they fail the brake light will no longer work. This can also happen to the headlights and tail lights as they all go thru the computer monitor. You can leave in the 3 wire rear brake switch just use the 2 wires that have the correct switching to work and insulate the third wire. Here is the wiring digram for your bike with all of the connectors shown. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/84-85%20Yamaha%20Venture%20L%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

Right out of high school I could not pass the physical to get into the Air Force. I doubt if I would fare any better now...... I had to settle for working for a military contractor making the stuff that got used on war machines.

It has had the drips on the floor under the front of the engine for a few weeks now. At first look I figured OK I know what that is, it is the O-ring on the fill valve. So I crawl around on the floor looking but no sign of dripping or wetness. Hmmmmm...... OK plan 2. I start checking all of the other O-rings for the thermostat, the plastic angle tube to the water pump and everything else with an O-ring. Nuttin everything is dry. I even went so far as to put some dye in the radiator to help identify the leak. Hmmmm...... there is a water spot again but it is not florescent green?????? OK time for some serious head scratchin. :think: :think: :think: Then yesterday morning the big clue was finally relieved to me. On the way riding in to work the temp was right at the dew point. When I rode into a pocket of warmer air, the cool wind shield instantly fogged up. BUT in the fog I could see definite signs of water dripping. So this mourning looking closer, sure enough, another water spot under the bike that was not fluorescent green. But this time I looked up and low and behold there is a drop of water clinging to the ceiling right over where the water spots on the wind screen were. So my water leak turned out to be a roof leak in the shed where I keep the bike, that was dripping down onto the bike working its way thru the bike to finally drip onto the ground under the bike. Another great mystery in life solved.....

Around here there is such a demand for welders that it does not take much more than being able to spell welder to get a welding job. I think the spelling part might even be an open book test...... There are also constant commercials on TV and radio looking for semi drivers with no drug history and a fairly clean driving record.

Glad you and the bike are both OK. Is it possible to use a couple of safety straps or rachet straps to tie the bike to the lift to prevent it from sliding while working. I use hydraulics all the time to lift things, I NEVER trust hydraulics to hold anything up while working on it. You must have a solid mechanical means to hold the item up. Be it a jack stand under the car or a safety bar in the MC lift or legs on the lift adapter. But never trust hydraulics alone.

We had a good crowd in last night, but there was no one there to serve food and drinks.

I got sick and tired of my cig plug working its way out. We have some really bad roads around here. I bought the Garmin hard wire kit and never had a power issue since. The Garmin wire dos have the voltage reducer built in just like the cig plug does. DO NOT JUST CUT OFF THE CIG PLUG AND HARD WIRE IT, YOU WILL BE SHOPPING FOR A NEW GPS.

Our local PD has said they are getting one as soon as possible. Because it is perfectly legal for a passenger to be texting in the car, they will only be pulling over single occupant cars, then there is no question who was texting. The place making the gizmo says they are working on a way to tell who in the car was texting. The phone does not send out a signal when a text comes in, only when you send a text out. So a text coming into your phone while it is in your pocket "should" not be noticed by the detector.

HEY!!!! :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: I guess I kind-of asked for that...... :moon: :moon:

It is great to hear that he is still improving. Some things just take time, sometimes a lot of time. After my dads accident it took him 2.5 years before he could drive a car again. but with time he got there. I hope that Justin continues to show improvement with time.

Joe you must have done something wrong, there were a bunch of us on there.

HUH?? If I am taking apic of someone elses bike while they are taking my pic then how at the same time do I take a pic of me my bike and the person taking my pic??????? Now my head hurts.

Those are imposters, those are not my balls. No one has them like mine..... These are the real deal.

Interesting. Have you had it out on a dark country road? How well does it light up the road a half mile ahead of you?

I'm always stinking,,,,,,,I mean thinking....... Lots of cool toys in my basement. You wanna see my toys?

Yes please post your route so we know where to ambush you for the pecan pies.......

Better get 2, there small, and you will need one to share......

I'm there already

Another possibility is to use a suction cup and a good yank may pop most of it back out. It wont be perfect but it is cheap and could get it close.

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Most automotive oils will make the clutch slip. You need an oil that specifically says on the container that it is for a wet clutch. Using the wrong oil will not do damage as long as you stop letting the clutch slip and change it out to an appropriate motorcycle oil. I use the Valvoline 10-40 Motor Cycle oil. Unless you are using the Valvoline 4T Stroke Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. Be gentle on the clutch for a while while the old oil works it way out and the new oil works its way into the clutch. It may take a second oil change after 3-400 miles to flush out all of the old oil. There is about a half quart that does not drain when you do an oil change. You can get some of that half quart to drain by removing the bottom screw on the middle gear cover on the left side of the engine. You will want to have a new copper crush washer handy if you are going to pull that screw. When refilling oil, no more than half the way up the sight glass with the bike upright and level. As for the diaphragm spring, it dies of old age, miles have little to do with it.

Also while at cruising speed in 5th, crack the throttle wide open to see if the clutch is slipping. If the rpm goes up faster than the speed then your clutch spring needs replacing to stop the slipping.

Pretty much anything you put back there will need lights. If you already have a receiver to plug the rack into then the bike is mostlikely aready wired for the trailer lights on the rack.

Remind me not to have your wife's salsa.

Everyone that has gone to the progressive front springs has been quite happy with the results. I will be putting mine in this winter. As for the clunk, The only clunk I get on my 88 is if I hit a bump or pot hole during hard braking and bottom out the front end.