Flyinfool

What time did you check? I was in there from 7 - 10 pm central.

If you do wire in an external flasher, you will also loose the self canceling feature since that is also inside of that same Flasher/Start relay module. I have thought of trying to disassemble an OEM module to see if it possible to retain the self cancel, but wire in an electronic flasher that will flash correctly regardless of load. But I need to find a OEM flasher with a bad start relay, I hate to chop up a good one.

Your link does not work. The LED bulbs are rated at 1000 Lumen. A Sylvania H3 Halogen bulb is rated at 1520 lumen. Your reflector is designed to work with a halogen. The LED creates light over a much bigger area that will not be properly focused in you housing and the LED has only 2/3 the light output. Many people are fooled by the bluer color into thinking they can see better. All of the H3 LEDs that I have been able to find have had a disclaimer in the fine print that the H3 LEDs are for show only, and will not illuminate a dark road. Now on the other hand, there are LEDs that are plenty bright to use for road illumination. When these are put into a reflector and lens that are specifically designed for that LED, they are great. You also have to watch the power ratings of some of the really bright LEDs, I have seen some LEDs that will draw more power than the halogen they are replacing.

:sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that:

When the gas hits the bottom of the filler neck the tank is full. That little bit that you get by filling the neck to the top and then watching it slowly go down is filling in some of the air space that is designed into the tank. If you were to fill it all of the way up it would dump some of the gas on the ground as the cool gas heats up and expands. There are some people that punch holes around the top of the filler neck so that they can fill every last drop. but you can only do that IF you going out for a long ride. If you fill it and let it sit, it will just leak out.

Hey Bronco; You come up here and not only will I help you sync the carbs, I'll buy the first round of good Wisconsin Ice cream. We know our ice cream here in the Dairy Land state. Could even be a rootbeer float.......

There is a rebuild kit available for the clutch slave. There also seems to only be about a 50% success rate of rebuilds. There is not a big difference in cost between a new slave and the rebuild kit. Point is you are better off just getting a new slave right off the bat.

Mama slept right threw chat last night....... Maybe I need to charge her battery toooo......

Nice bike, great color. Hey, 1st gens have cassette decks too. And we also always wait at the next ice cream stand for you to catch up.....

:rotf: That was just Sparktacular......

You should not have to keep the bike on a trickle charger. A trickle charger will damage your battery over time. If anything, you want to get a battery maintainer, but that is only needed for long term storage. My bike can sit for 3 months at a time in sub zero temps, buried in snow, and still start fine. If yours can not, then you have something hooked up that is drawing power even when the bike is shut off, or you have a weak battery. Most battery stores will load test your battery for free. As far as getting a HO stator, IF you do get a HO stator then you also need to get a HO regulator / rectifier to go with it. From what I have read, the HO parts, especially the stator, do not last as long as OEM. Now if I could just find someone that would make a RR with a switching type regulator, then we would have a near bullet proof charging system. Expensive and big, but would be great.

Well then its back to plan B or is it BB......... Even if they did make someone at the factory taste it things that taste good to us, some animals would not touch, and just look at some of the things that animals do eat.

Brings back memories....... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=710735&postcount=1

Today was the first I heard that ward had enough weed in him to have significantly impaired judgement. That really changes things.

Now that is punny.......

なぜ誰かが私が私に混入日本の持っていたこと私に手掛かりを与えていない？ Naze darekaga watashi ga watashi ni kon'nyū Nihon no motte ita koto watashi ni tegakari o ataete inai?

Most likely it is nothing to worry about, the stator can not put out enough power to keep everything going when at idle. Simple test. check the voltage across the battery at idle with everything turned on, then bring the engine up to around 2500 or more RPM and if the voltage comes up to around 14V then all is as it should be.

Ya know Puc, now that you mentioned that..... I'm thinking that if I start making snow now the snow will cover the roof leak freeze solid and it will stop leaking. But there is no tellin where else will get snow....... :snow2:

Check the voltage across the battery while cranking. If the battery is dropping down to 8.4 while cranking then it is either a bad battery or a bad charger. You mentioned that you have the battery on a maintainer while doing the testing. A battery maintainer is made to maintain a fully charged battery, most will not do a good job of charging the battery if it is low. You need a charger to bring the battery back up. there are some charger/maintainers out that can do both, but they usually have very slow chargers that may take days to bring up the battery to full. If you are not already then get a real charger on there. The voltage at the red/white wire at the TCI should be withing .1 or .2 at the worst of what ever the battery is reading under the same conditions. You can check the voltage drop by connecting your volt meter from the battery pos and to the red/white at the TCI. This will read the actual voltage drop whether cranking or sitting. If it is more than .2 volts, you have either a bad connection or a damaged wire "somewhere". 1.5 volts is bad. Yes the fan running will cause the battery voltage to drop a bit and leave less power available for starting. That is why the headlight turns off while cranking, just to have as much power as possible available for starting. As you mentioned it could have been a bad thermo switch or an over heat problem or even nothing more than a perceived problem. It is normal for the temp gage to get right up to the red before the fan comes on, some people do not like that and start changing things to fix something that is working perfectly. For now just disconnect the fan and the brake light. If the engine wont run those are both not needed. We can figure out those issues once the engine will run.

If it is a critter, a pellet rifle works wonders.....

Don't ya know, bad things only happen to other people....... Or I'm to good to let that happen.......

You can also teach a dog that mice are a fun treat. It is just a little dangerous to have an 80 lb dog flying through the house to pounce. Don't get in the way.......

Now that I know what it is I can also just ignore it......... It will not leave me stranded on the road. Besides, that roof is only 30 years old.....

I agree, that looks more like flaking than chewing. The area around that looks like it is not well adhered. Try sanding that area down to bare wood and restaining.

As long as the mobile traps are always a little underfed......