Flyinfool

Nice bike, great color. Hey, 1st gens have cassette decks too. And we also always wait at the next ice cream stand for you to catch up.....

:rotf: That was just Sparktacular......

You should not have to keep the bike on a trickle charger. A trickle charger will damage your battery over time. If anything, you want to get a battery maintainer, but that is only needed for long term storage. My bike can sit for 3 months at a time in sub zero temps, buried in snow, and still start fine. If yours can not, then you have something hooked up that is drawing power even when the bike is shut off, or you have a weak battery. Most battery stores will load test your battery for free. As far as getting a HO stator, IF you do get a HO stator then you also need to get a HO regulator / rectifier to go with it. From what I have read, the HO parts, especially the stator, do not last as long as OEM. Now if I could just find someone that would make a RR with a switching type regulator, then we would have a near bullet proof charging system. Expensive and big, but would be great.

Well then its back to plan B or is it BB......... Even if they did make someone at the factory taste it things that taste good to us, some animals would not touch, and just look at some of the things that animals do eat.

Brings back memories....... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=710735&postcount=1

Today was the first I heard that ward had enough weed in him to have significantly impaired judgement. That really changes things.

Now that is punny.......

なぜ誰かが私が私に混入日本の持っていたこと私に手掛かりを与えていない？ Naze darekaga watashi ga watashi ni kon'nyū Nihon no motte ita koto watashi ni tegakari o ataete inai?

Most likely it is nothing to worry about, the stator can not put out enough power to keep everything going when at idle. Simple test. check the voltage across the battery at idle with everything turned on, then bring the engine up to around 2500 or more RPM and if the voltage comes up to around 14V then all is as it should be.

Ya know Puc, now that you mentioned that..... I'm thinking that if I start making snow now the snow will cover the roof leak freeze solid and it will stop leaking. But there is no tellin where else will get snow....... :snow2:

Check the voltage across the battery while cranking. If the battery is dropping down to 8.4 while cranking then it is either a bad battery or a bad charger. You mentioned that you have the battery on a maintainer while doing the testing. A battery maintainer is made to maintain a fully charged battery, most will not do a good job of charging the battery if it is low. You need a charger to bring the battery back up. there are some charger/maintainers out that can do both, but they usually have very slow chargers that may take days to bring up the battery to full. If you are not already then get a real charger on there. The voltage at the red/white wire at the TCI should be withing .1 or .2 at the worst of what ever the battery is reading under the same conditions. You can check the voltage drop by connecting your volt meter from the battery pos and to the red/white at the TCI. This will read the actual voltage drop whether cranking or sitting. If it is more than .2 volts, you have either a bad connection or a damaged wire "somewhere". 1.5 volts is bad. Yes the fan running will cause the battery voltage to drop a bit and leave less power available for starting. That is why the headlight turns off while cranking, just to have as much power as possible available for starting. As you mentioned it could have been a bad thermo switch or an over heat problem or even nothing more than a perceived problem. It is normal for the temp gage to get right up to the red before the fan comes on, some people do not like that and start changing things to fix something that is working perfectly. For now just disconnect the fan and the brake light. If the engine wont run those are both not needed. We can figure out those issues once the engine will run.

If it is a critter, a pellet rifle works wonders.....

Don't ya know, bad things only happen to other people....... Or I'm to good to let that happen.......

You can also teach a dog that mice are a fun treat. It is just a little dangerous to have an 80 lb dog flying through the house to pounce. Don't get in the way.......

Now that I know what it is I can also just ignore it......... It will not leave me stranded on the road. Besides, that roof is only 30 years old.....

I agree, that looks more like flaking than chewing. The area around that looks like it is not well adhered. Try sanding that area down to bare wood and restaining.

As long as the mobile traps are always a little underfed......

Stupid puter.......

Since you have pulled the B/W wire from the TCI it can not be the side stand switch or side stand relay since they work by grounding the B/W wire from the TCI. On the bigger of the 2 connectors on the TCI check for 12V from the Red/White to the black wire. This will verify both the power and ground sides of the ignition. It normally would sound like 2 distinct issues with the brake and ignition going out at the same time, they are very unrelated. But since the PO was playing with the wiring, anything might be possible. As for the brake switch, that sounds like a mess. from what you are describing it sounds like the PO bypassed the Computer monitor and wired the brake switches direct to the brake bulbs. The computer monitors are very well known for bad solder joints that if/when they fail the brake light will no longer work. This can also happen to the headlights and tail lights as they all go thru the computer monitor. You can leave in the 3 wire rear brake switch just use the 2 wires that have the correct switching to work and insulate the third wire. Here is the wiring digram for your bike with all of the connectors shown. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/84-85%20Yamaha%20Venture%20L%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

Right out of high school I could not pass the physical to get into the Air Force. I doubt if I would fare any better now...... I had to settle for working for a military contractor making the stuff that got used on war machines.

It has had the drips on the floor under the front of the engine for a few weeks now. At first look I figured OK I know what that is, it is the O-ring on the fill valve. So I crawl around on the floor looking but no sign of dripping or wetness. Hmmmmm...... OK plan 2. I start checking all of the other O-rings for the thermostat, the plastic angle tube to the water pump and everything else with an O-ring. Nuttin everything is dry. I even went so far as to put some dye in the radiator to help identify the leak. Hmmmm...... there is a water spot again but it is not florescent green?????? OK time for some serious head scratchin. :think: :think: :think: Then yesterday morning the big clue was finally relieved to me. On the way riding in to work the temp was right at the dew point. When I rode into a pocket of warmer air, the cool wind shield instantly fogged up. BUT in the fog I could see definite signs of water dripping. So this mourning looking closer, sure enough, another water spot under the bike that was not fluorescent green. But this time I looked up and low and behold there is a drop of water clinging to the ceiling right over where the water spots on the wind screen were. So my water leak turned out to be a roof leak in the shed where I keep the bike, that was dripping down onto the bike working its way thru the bike to finally drip onto the ground under the bike. Another great mystery in life solved.....

Around here there is such a demand for welders that it does not take much more than being able to spell welder to get a welding job. I think the spelling part might even be an open book test...... There are also constant commercials on TV and radio looking for semi drivers with no drug history and a fairly clean driving record.

Glad you and the bike are both OK. Is it possible to use a couple of safety straps or rachet straps to tie the bike to the lift to prevent it from sliding while working. I use hydraulics all the time to lift things, I NEVER trust hydraulics to hold anything up while working on it. You must have a solid mechanical means to hold the item up. Be it a jack stand under the car or a safety bar in the MC lift or legs on the lift adapter. But never trust hydraulics alone.

We had a good crowd in last night, but there was no one there to serve food and drinks.

I got sick and tired of my cig plug working its way out. We have some really bad roads around here. I bought the Garmin hard wire kit and never had a power issue since. The Garmin wire dos have the voltage reducer built in just like the cig plug does. DO NOT JUST CUT OFF THE CIG PLUG AND HARD WIRE IT, YOU WILL BE SHOPPING FOR A NEW GPS.