Flyinfool

The turntable would not help me. The dolly above it is basically what I am building. I just can not bend heavy gage metal so I have to weld it up out of pieces. And it will not cost me $200+. I seem to always have more time than money.

I'm so tight in there that to change my mind I have not only go outside just to find my mind, but still have to walk to the front of the house to be able t o change it...... then by the time I get back I forgot what the problem was....... I have tried a few times to talk the neighbor across the ally out of his 4 car garage. His garage is actually closer to my back door than I could build my own. And it is just sitting there empty for the last 6 years........ What a waste......

That looks just the one from HF mentioned above.

Sorry to hear, but been there, done that, have the t-shirt. You still have a lot of friends here to help you through. It does not seem like it now but things will get better, especially if you have some friends around to lean on a little. Most of us on this site don't tip over real easy so lean away.

I looked at that one from HF. But since I will be doing suspension work this winter I need a dolly that can get the weight off the wheels. The HF one would be great for simple storage and being able to move the bike around. When on the center stand it only takes 50 lbs of weight in the trunk to hold the front wheel off the ground, with an empty trunk the rear wheel is off the ground.

OK here is revision 2. Using angle instead of the channel for the cross pieces, this way the ends are still open for the side stand lever to stick out and the verticals in the center will still prevent the side stand from sliding sideways. It saves about $10 in material by using the same angle iron for all 4 pieces, just need an extra foot of material. I can always still add some gussets next to the casters if needed. There will be scrap for gussets from the scallops in the 2 parts. The scallops are only there to reduce weight a little, look cool and the fun and challenge of figuring out how to fixture and machine them. Micarl I hope that it will not be a real often thing that I am putting the bike up on this dolly. The dolly means major work is getting done..... The bike goes up on the center stand pretty easy as it is, I am hoping that it will not be an issue with the dolly. As you mentioned I can max the air in the suspension, and/or use a couple of boards under one or both of the tires if needed. I'll try just the one dolly first before I try to build another for the front wheel. The center stand is so near the CG of the bike that it is easy to push down on the back to raise the front tire to spin it any which way. I will use a safety strap to lock the center stand in the down position.

In looking at how the center stand is built there can not be a flange on the outside of the left foot. The bar that you stand on for lifting the bike gets very close to the ground when up on the stand, less than 1/2 inch clearance. Using channelsBy having a flat bottom this is not tied to one specific width of center stand, just in case I decide to sell a couple of these. I don't think that the center rib is needed, none of the commercial units have it, but it would otherwise be a piece of scrap so it is free anyhow, just an extra 5 minutes to weld it in. I also have gussets necxt to the casters (not really visible in this view) that are probably not needed but are also cut from scrap so they will get used anyhow. All of the commercial ones are stamped out of a single piece of flat stock that appears to be 5/16 or 3/8 thick, with no gussets anywhere. Mine is welded up out of 3/8 plate and angle iron because I can not bend something that thick in my basement, (yet...) but I can weld it. The top of the "floor" of the dolly will be just 9/16 above the floor, 3/16 clearance under it. So I am hoping that this will not make it to hard to get the bike up onto the dolly. If I have to I will drive the bike up on some pieces of wood to makeup the height difference. But you did give me some other ideas........

I am planning to a bunch of things to my bike this winter. My work area is an 8 x 10 steel storage shed. The bike shares this shed with the normal stuff like lawn mower, grill window AC units, generator and other stuff you would find in a garden shed. This does not leve much room for working on the bike. As it is to get the bike into the shed I have to come in at an angle and then turn the front wheel full right just as it gets to the corner so that the door can close behind the bike. This obviously means that the bike must be stored with the bike on the side stand and the steering full lock to the right. It is impossible to get the bike up on the center stand AND still get the door closed. So my plan of action for before winter gets here is to build a dolly for under the center stand. The dolly will have 4 swivel casters with wheel locks. I did find that you can buy these from several sources on line but the ones rated to hold the weight of a 1st gen are $200 to $350 plus shipping. They are heavy so shipping will be high. Mine will be rated to hold 1000 lbs and allow me to move the bike all the way to either side of the available area to get more room for my fat butt to get in there to work on things. I can easily move it to hang out the door to work around the front and then easily slide it back in to close the door when I am done for the day. It will cost be about $120 in materials to build this. What ya think?

I also have never had an issue with leaving the bike on the side stand all winter. Just make sure that the tires do not go flat or the bike may try to lean to the right while on the side stand.

CAKE?? Someone mention CAKE? I like cake....... As Marcarl mentioned. Whether it is something with the flywheel having been on there for near 30 years or something that the factory does different, but future removals go comparatively very easy. Your next challenge is getting it back together with no oil leaks. Where the wires come thru is a well known oil leak spot and difficult to get sealed up. What I did was to use brake cleaner to thoroughly clean all oil out of the cloth wire covering on both sides of the rubber plug. Then pulled an inch of wire through the rubber plug and cleaned all of the oil out of that cloth. Goop up the wires with black RTV sealant and work it well into the cloth wire covering. Pull the wires back to their original location in the rubber plug so that you are pulling sealant back into the plug with the wires. Install the whole mess back on the bike using a lot of black RTV all around the rubber plug. That is now one of the only places on my bike that does not leak oil.......

#1 has to be my VerntureRider membership. #2 has to be the HID headlight. There is nothing better than to see and be seen. #3 has to be the backrest. Subject to change this winter with the new additions coming.......

You need to use class 10.9 screws to hold the puller to the flywheel along with high strength washers. When you put in the 3 puller bolts, do not tighten them, they only need to be finger tight, but screwed all the way in for full thread engagement. Otherwise there is a possibility of slamming your head into side of faring under radio........:bang head: There are always great stories associated with pulling the flywheel, and every one is a different but interesting experience. Are you planning to rebuild the starter clutch stock or go with Danos upgrade? Stock you will be back in there doing the same job again, Dano costs a little more but you will not have to do it again. As long as you are in there, take a real close look at the stator for any signs of overheating. If there are any signs of over heating now is a good time to replace it while everything is apart.

I always wonder just how much of the race is skill and how much is blind luck finding the best wind.

1. Not that I have seen. 2. There are 2 bolts below the passenger seat behind the side bags. 3. Yes. It is on the right side of the bike down by the passenger foot rest. It is very hard to turn, you will need a wrench or pliers and there is a good chance of breaking the plastic. Everyone just sets it on reserve and forgets about it. The gas gauge shows empty at the time you would be hitting reserve. So when the gauge shows empty you have about 1 gallon left.

That's not competing.................Its trying to steal customers...

That memory backup should not be pulling enough power to light a bulb. A po may have added some accessory to that circuit because it is always on and that could be what is pulling down the battery. You still need to check all circuits.

Beer is bad, pure poison........ acky....... :essen_018: :essen_018:

It sure is cold and quiet in chat. Who has those logs.......

Looks good. Yes there should be something plugged in there.

I think I need a snow storm........

Even nekid, HOT is still HOT...... You can only take so much off and then you get arrested......

That's not singing when running with a 2nd gen, its laughing.......

Since your charge adapter has a light, if the light is on with the key off, you have power to the outlet. A single LED will take about 2 months to pull down the battery. But the rest of the charge adapter may pull more power whether it is charging or not. Get a small 12V bulb, a 194 like a dash bulb is perfect. Connect two wires to it. take the negative cable (and any other wires connected there) off of the battery. connect one of the bulb wires to the battery negative, connect the other bulb wire to the cable(s) that came off of the batt neg. With the key off, if the bulb lights, even if it just glows a little, then you have a draw on the battery. Start pulling fuses one at a time untill you find which circuit has the draw. Don't forget to check any hard wired inline fuses that may have been added.

We have more good riding weather up here than there is down south. I can dress for comfort in sub freezing temps, There is no way to make hot comfortable.

I don't have permission to view your album.......