Flyinfool

Well it seems that my need for such a tool has been drastically diminished with my current round of health issues. It is looking like I will be contracting someone to do the work for me. This getting old stuff ain't no fun. On the other hand I do really appreciate your thinking of me and looking out for more toys to add to my collection. I still may have to pick one up, just cuz. I HEARD THAT......... NOTES HAVE BEEN TAKEN!!! But you and Johnny love to play in it so much.

How did you know that I was from the planet Zoor? I was trying to hide out here.......

Who says that is not the one I want. I want one of every kind out there.......

Hey If there is no other interest you 2 can always pop up here for a visit. We can go out somewhere for food and visit a while. I only live 2 miles from the Final Approach. Wife is always game to go out for a meal.

OH! As mentioned that handgun was purchased for use in shotgun country back before there were Sabot shotgun rounds, Those old shotguns with a slug were not much good beyond 100 yards. The longest shot that dropped a deer with the 7mm-08 handgun was around 200-230 yards. The closest was about 50 yards. I used to love sitting at the top of this big hill on Thanksgiving morning and watch the wave after wave of deer drives go across the field below me. The field was chest high grass, and kind of swampy. From my vantage point I could see the drivers marching in a line across the field banging their pots and pans, and could see the deer crouching low and moving to between the drivers and letting them march and bang their way right past them. It never failed that once the drivers were far enough away the deer would stand up to watch them leave. As soon as the drivers were far enough away for safety, I could get any deer that were standing around watching if they were in a clear enough spot. An hour later the next wave of different drivers would be coming thru and the whole process repeated. It was always a blast. Literally and figuratively.

Of course bullet selection is very close to asking what is the best oil or the best tires......

What weight were your bullets, 150 grain is the ideal weight bullet from a .30 cal rifle for deer, a 150 g from a 7mm will just drill small 7mm holes thru the deer and knock down 3 trees behind the deer. 140g works best for a 7mm or 6.5mm gun. 120g does wonders in my .243. I load all of my rifles with Nosler BT bullets. You can buy Federal Premium ammo off the shelf with Nosler BT bullets. The longest kill with my 7 Mag was around 625 yards measured as best I could using google earth. It was a shot from one ridge to the next ridge across a fresh clear cut. The shortest was around 4 feet from the end of the barrel. I was in a ground blind and the deer walked right next to me. That one I never even raised the gun, the Gun was still in my lap. Not much aiming needed at 4 feet. But it did leave a 7mm hole and some powder burns in the side of the tent .

For loading or unloading the breach block rotates 90° and there is a spring loaded extractor to pop the shell out. You have to watch where you point it or it will bounce the unloaded shell off your forehead. For cocking there is a lever that can be seen sticking out the front of the stock. Pulling that lever out ~90° will cock the firing pin. You can also use that lever for decocking the action. As for the bullet, That is a Nosler Ballistic tip, 140g, wonderful medicine for deer. The hard plastic tip on the bullet allows you to have a very sharp point for better aerodynamics to maintain bulled speed and energy farther down range. The hard plastic tip also prevents distortion when the tip of the bullet hits a feed ramp. Again helping accuracy. At terminal point the plastic tip will push back into the bullet creating a hollow point for great expansion and a massive wound channel. I typically find that plastic tip within the first half inch on the entry side. There is rarely an exit hole. Even when I have that same exact bullet loaded to 3800 FPS in my 7 Mag. ALL of that energy stays in the deer. See...... there is always a method to my madness......

Many scope mounts use a #6-48 thread to mount the base. If it does I have the #31 , 3 flute solid carbide drill bit and the 6-48 tap for making the holes. The other popular thread sizes are #6-40 and #8-40 . I do not have those taps but I do have the #32 drill for the #6-40 and the #28 drill for the #8-40 . Break out those swim trunks again....... Should take what, a half hour for Maggi to get you here.....

VERRRRYYYY interesting.This might make a fine addition to my 10 inch bull barrel target model MK2. The gun is already able to hold 2 MOA at 100 Yds with the cheap Remington Thunderbolt ammo and the factory iron sights. I am sure the groups will tighten up with some good optics. I do need to contact Ruger to get a new extractor. Mine is so worn that it will not remove a shell from the chamber. The only way to unload the gun is to fire the last round out of the chamber or use a cleaning rod to push the unfired shell out of the chamber. Here is one of my more uncommon guns. it is a Magnum Research, Lone Eagle, Chambered in 7mm - 08. With the muzzle brake it has about the same recoil as a .45ACP. The scope is a 2.5-7 X 32. In the hands of someone that knows what they are doing it is capable of sub MOA groups. I'm not but the gun is. I bought this for when deer hunting required the use of a shot gun, muzzle loader or handgun. A hand gun had to have at least a 5" barrel and be a .357 mag, a .41 Mag or a .44 Mag, or be able to produce at least 1000 Ft Lbs of energy at the muzzle with commercially available ammo. Commercial ammo in this is made for a 26 inch barrel, so putting down this 14 inch barrel would send a fireball about 15 yard down range. The first pic shows a comparison of the .357 Mag and the 7mm - 08.

Offer still stands........ Just gotta be before the 21st........

There is also a lot of good info in the technical library. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?86-Known-Problems-and-things-to-look-for

Yup @cowpuc should be here shortly. He has put around 1 million miles spread over 4 or 5 83 ventures with no 2nd gear. There are a lot of others riding around with no 2nd gear. The other thing you want to watch for is frame cracking just in front of the rear wheel. Some bikes get it but most never do. It is very possible to weld it back up.

Looks like another excuse for you to swim across the pond to get holes drilled on center. Heck up here we are waiting for it to warm UP to 21°F. You guys are gonna make me start taking some pics of my more unusual guns.

I had not planned for one this year. But it is not to late if there is still some interest. Last year I put up all of the posts and no one signed up for it so It kind of never happened. That is why I did not give it more than a fleeting thought for this year, but then remembered last year. We can call this thread a search for interested parties. There are still 4 Saturdays left this month. It does not take real long to call in a reservation. I am always game to meet others. I also tried to set up a Meet and Eat for August at the Hardly Museum in Milwaukee, Home of HD, along with back room tours of the museum and that also had no interest.

At the rate these temps are going the snow will be around until July.

I do not know if ford plays the same game with the charging system as GM does. The charging voltage in my truck is always bouncing around from 12.6 to 16. This is "supposed" to save gas and prolong battery life by letting the truck run off the battery for a while and then charging it back up again. It freaked me out the first time I saw this happen a week after I got the truck. I thought it popped the alternator. An alternator can use 4-5 HP of engine power when it is on. I do not believe that it saves either gas or battery life. I have yet to have a battery last more than 2 years in that thing. The good part of that is the battery I have has a 3 year full replacement warranty. So every other year I get a fresh battery for free. In 10 years I have only had to pay for that very first replacement battery.

OK then @cowpuc, you sit on the drum for proper loading and I will start working my way up thru heaver charges till we find the magic number of seconds to set you down on the other side of the pond.

Tippy? I thought so.... Your case is well rested. Well sine I be judged all the time I guess that it is then OK for me to judge. There is no sane person that has ever thought that I was sane, and it takes one to know one.

No need to ask for one to get you over here, What are friends for anyhow, of course I am now making up a 55gal drum just for you to be able to get here on a moments notice......

I think I need one of those and some (OK a LOT) of the incendiary ammo for it.

Both the clutch switch and the brake switch are DPST switches. This means that there are 2 completely separate switches in each. You can use the 2 wire switch on the brake side by adding a relay to kill the cruise. The coil of the relay is connected to the brake light wire and ground, the 2 cruise wires go to the relay contacts. You should be able to do something similar to the clutch side but I do not know the connections off the top of my head. But this will allow you to use the 2 wire switches and still have everything on the bike working correctly.

Well you asked for it, Snow expected every day this week......... No concrete plans for next week.........yet:moon: OH, there's an idea, most of the snow I did this year SO FAR was the light fluffy kind, Its been a while since I did a good batch of snow that is as heavy as and has the consistency of concrete. Puc you are just so good at putting ideas into my poor little brain..........

You said that if I agree with 3 I must agree with 4. But I agree with neither so I am still consistent. When the piston is traveling down on the intake stroke to generate air velocity in the system the torque is actually negative as the piston requires a source of torque to turn the crank to pull the piston down. Your question was a bit ambiguous which is why I included an explanation of my interpretation of the question, Since there is no torque being generated at max intake air velocity I made the assumption that you were referring to the average airflow over the complete 4 cycles. Now you could have also been referring to piston velocity which would bring in a whole nutter set of answers. Peak airflow velocity does not happen at peak piston velocity. There are many velocities happening, I am not sure which velocity you were asking about. Of course it is very possible that we are not even talking about the same thing here.

Yes assuming that Mr Watts estimate of horse power is actually correct. It is generally accepted as the standard to use, but has never been scientifically verified. (At least not that I can find) The 5252 is not due to anything in or even related to the actual engine at all, it is just simple math. That is why you can not design around it. There is a formula for torque and HP, the formula that is accepted as fact stated that torque in lb/ft is equal to HP at 5252 RPM.