Flyinfool

As long as that rubber hose is brake line hose, and none of the joints are leaking, and the reservoir seals air tight, it should be fine. That said it looks like rubber fuel line that will break down in contact with brake fluid. That metal joint looks like a threaded electrical conduit fitting with the rubber hose trying to seal on the threads. The reservoir looks to be all metal, but I doubt if it has a bladder in it to stay air tight while still allowing for expansion and contraction of the fluid.

I do not know about using a 2nd gen starter clutch on a 1st gen, or if it is even any better. The bullet proof starter clutch upgrade is to contact @Dano and send him your flywheel to mod.

I don't think that is the part that is broke?????? This is the part that usually breaks https://www.ebay.com/itm/83-85-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1200-XVZ-1200-FRAME-CHASSIS-CLN-EZ-REG/153221235757?hash=item23acb2842d:g:KoUAAOSwxG9bxihP This one is from an 83 so it can still have the frame issue. When the frame breaks it is because it rusts out from the inside. A perfectly good looking frame can snap. If you do get another 83 frame just plan on welding in some reinforcements before you bolt anything to it.

Well now that you bring up the SKS. I recently acquired three 50 cal ammo cans stuffed full of 7.62 x 39 ammo for my SKS that a non shooting friend found in the basement of their newly purchased house. FREE for the hauling. I think my tires might still be smoking a little. My SKS was used in a TV news spot that was being done back when the "Assault Rifle Ban" was in the process of getting started. The reporter had taken pics of a group od "sporting" rifles, and a group of "Assault" rifles. My SKS was in the sporting group. Was he ever POed when he found out that he had fallen into the truth that the ONLY difference between a sporting rifle and an "assault" rifle was purely cosmetic. This all happened just a few days after I had completed the paint, and I just happened to be at the gun shop at that time because once I told them what I did they wanted to see it. At the time it still had a 10 round mag, now I have all 30 round. Here is that nasty little SKS now.

Which of course goes back to one of my prerequisites -

If you are in far enough to stick a feeler gauge in there to measure the clearance, why on earth would you not take the extra 5 minutes and $5 to change to an in tolerance shim and know for certain that you are good for a long long time?? There are plenty of places to get shims from ranging from free to $10. By far the getting to the valves is the worst part of the job. I had to replace a leaky valve cover gasket so I adjusted all of the valves to the high limit of the tolerance. I figured that would mean I would never have to check them again in my riding time that I had left, unfortunately, I was right. Two of my valves were at less than .001, not touching, I could still spin them in the pocket, but my .001 feeler did not fit, Those would have been burnt valves in the very near future had I not checked and changed as required. This was at 55K miles. Do you feel lucky? There was even one valve that was OVER by 3 thou. The factory must have set that one real loose or popped the shims in the wrong spots because switching the shims from the loose one to the tight one almost brought them both back in spec.

at 75-80 with a load, 30ish is about right. This engine likes to be around 4,000 rpm or more, much under that eats more gas. sustained over 70 eats more gas. It is hard to tell without seeing it if all is normal. To check for a weak cylinder when starting it cold see if all 4 pipes warm up at the same rate.

One of our members @zagger has also removed the collector on his 1st gen.

Or at least have a good exit strategy.

In my case it is exercise that usually triggers my A-fib. Any time I let my HR get over 120 it is almost guaranteed that within the next hour I will go into Afib. I am not sure I want to try pushing it back up to try to clear it. This is interesting, I may give it a try next time. It does not sound like it can hurt anything. Good luck on your ablation. The worst part is laying still in bed for 6 hours after the procedure with the clamp on to make sure there is no bleeding. The next worst part comes that day after when they remove all of the temporary plumbing that they installed. I am fortunate that I have almost no symptoms when I go into Afib. All I get is a feeling of fatigue, and I get that often enough when not in Afib. There are many times the only way that I notice I am in Afib is when I look at the heart rate displayed on my watch and it is not where I would expect it to be for my current activity level. I can then pull out my ECG and check for sure and email the strip off to my cardiologist.

Check Solenoid connections. Check BOTH ends of ground wires.

Good Luck:thumbsup:

Time for a new tuner....(Pacemaker) It is now official, the doc has been thinking about it for the last month and he made it official today, March 21 I will be getting a new tuner installed. I check in at 11:00am and the procedure is at around 1:00pm and will take about 1.5 hours. IF all goes well I should come home sometime on the afternoon of March 22. So I guess that means that I am getting a new tuner on/for my BD. My resting heart rate is often dropping to around 33-35, My whole life it was around 45. The doc thinks that with the tuner keeping me above 60 at all times it might reduce how often I am dropping out of a normal sinus rhythm and into A fib. I sure hope he is right. He did also qualify it by saying that I may still need to get another cardiac ablation even with the tuner. The tuner also will open the door to some drugs that can only be given to people that have a tuner to keep the ticker running. It just seems to be so much better when the pump is firing on all 4 cylinders instead of just 2. Heck, even a Venture does not run well on 2 cylinders. I will try to post something to let you all know I am still here to make and then more and to generally , , and even more to make your lives "interesting". ps, The WWW will be in standby mode for a few days while I go thru all this. NO NOT OFF JUST ON STANDBY ........ This getting stuff sure aint for wimps.

OK so where you got the time machine hidden, and I would have thought that they would be flux capacitor powered by then and not even need wheels either.

Out of curiosity, with your state being constitutional carry do they still offer a CCW? I ask because the main reason I got my CCW is because I live in Wisconsin but I often hunt in Michigan. For nonresidents in Michigan you must have a CCW issued by your home state to even be in POSSESSION of a handgun, let alone carry it around in the woods. I have had encounters with coyote, wolves, and bears while roaming the upper MI woods. Never had to fire yet but been real close, Gun out, hammer back, two handed grip and a proper stance, critters were within a step or 2 of a loud noise. I know i can not out run any of those critters.

People would be SOOOooooo upset if I were to lay off the WWW. Especially @cowpuc!

DOPE!!! I made it better......... I have a dog (Rat Terrier) that thinks small rodents are delicious. Decon, or similar, is way to dangerous. Rat Terriers were bread to hunt rats, mice are just small rats and right there near the top of the menu.

Here are some pics of my 10 inch Ruger MK2 that I mentioned earlier. This gun is still as delivered from the factory with the exception of the Pachmayer grips. It is a 10 inch bull target barrel. I have literally tens of thousands of rounds thru this gun. As I mentioned the extractor is so worn that it will not pull out a fired or unfired round, even just after cleaning and oiling. It does still function normally for firing. The extractor is not used to remove a shell as it is fired, it is the blow back that is doing the work, the extractor just gets it moving to the side to get out the port. Yes some day I will order a new extractor for it. More unique toys to follow........ These are the .22LR shotgun shells that I use for mice in the house. They only have a lethal range for mice of about 12-15 feet maximum. The shot does not damage the paint or wood work in the house unless you are extremely close. You gotta be quick to see the mouse scurrying along a wall and then get the gun and get the shot off before the mouse can disappear. Typically a mouse not visible for more than a few seconds. Great practice for honing your reflexes. I only get 3 or 4 mice in the house a year. The shell with the crimped top is the shot shell, it is loaded with #12 shot. Next to it is a Remington Thunderbolt shell. The #12 shot is so fine that you are not going to find the pellets on the floor after a shot. The shot shells are also fun when sitting around a campfire picking off assorted bugs that fly by.

I do not know if there is a way to eliminate muzzle flash burning that much powder in that short of a barrel, but my hand loads do have less muzzle flash than the factory loads. I do not remember the recipe off hand, I make an effort to never remember recipes for loads. I have way to many powders in stock and different loads that I use, it could be catastrophic to mix it up. I will have to look it up when I get home if my feeble old brain that has CRS does manage to remember.

There is a trick to using the "@" symbol. The persons screen name must follow the "@" symbol with no spaces between. The persons screen name must also be spelled correctly. And finally that person must also have that feature turned on in their personal preferences. If all of the conditions are correct then that person will receive an email notifying them of the thread, and they will also get notified on every page up in the top right corner under "Notifications" ps It is not in post 14 where Chas name is highlighted, it is in note 13 of post 1:stickpoke:

I will not know about the following week end till it gets here. I go in for heart surgery on Thursday the 21st and am supposed to come home on Friday the 22nd. Until (if) I wake up Saturday morning I will not know if I am up for it.

Cool, we are rooting for you. See, as I warned you way back at the beginning of this thread, @cowpuc would be around shortly.........

But but but........ You know I is an inquisitive ol varmint.

1/2 drive torque wrench for the flywheel bolt. Scratch the Philips screwdriver and get a JIS screwdriver or you are almost guaranteed to strip out the screw heads. An impact driver with the JIS bit is the best choice for the stator screws. AND a big box of patients to get the flywheel off.

That QD is really interesting. My only concern is just how easy is it to push the release button with a twig or something and have the gun doing the back stroke on the gravel?