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Everything posted by Flyinfool
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rod
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SNOW!
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Dunc
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LED wiring issues
Flyinfool replied to dna9656's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Can you give us a link to the ebay bulbs that you bought? Can you post pics of the base of the LED bulbs you have? Did you check to see if the pins are correct on the bulb base? -
LED wiring issues
Flyinfool replied to dna9656's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
OK review time (cuz I am to lazy to reread the whole thread and figure it out.) This what I all remember from above. Correct me where I am making a false assumption. 1. You have tried several different LED bulbs in the front turn socket and they all work for turn signal but not running light. 2. You have tried the front amber LED bulbs in the known good tail light socket and they work. 3. You have tried the stock incandescent bulb and it still does still work for both running and turn. 4. The turn signal part of the LED bulb is working correctly. 5. There is no light from the LED bulb when in running light mode. 6. You have used pieces of wire and tested each of the LED bulbs direct to the battery and they do work. 7. You have tested the 2 pins in the socket with a voltmeter and they do have power. 8. You have tested the ground of the socket with an ohm meter and it is a good ground. 9. You have tried running a temporary wire from the base of the bulb direct to the battery Negative. -
She thinks.....
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To late for lottery tickets, he used up all of his luck for a while on that one.
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LED wiring issues
Flyinfool replied to dna9656's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Not in this case. The resistor is there to increase the amp draw on the circuit, putting a resistor in series with the bulb will only make the bulb dimmer and reduce the amp draw. You need the amp draw to make the flasher circuit work correctly. The problem in this case is with the running lights, the resistor, if it is in the right place, should have no bearing on the running light circuit. Doug You mentioned earlier that you also bought LEDs for the brake light. Does the brake / running light in the back work correctly with the LEDs in it? Did you try putting a bulb from the brake light into the front turn signal just for testing purposes? -
Yikes......
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My thoughs....... As Puc mentioned, the radio and GPS are nothing in the grand scheme of things, anything that heats or cools is where the big power demands are. I bought a HO stator and RR for my bike, but then after redoing all of the lighting to LED and HID that lowered the power demands enough that the HO stuff is not needed, yet. If you are going to upgrade the stator to an HO you will also need to upgrade the RR to an HO to realize the full benefit. Just from reading posts over the years, it seems that the HO stator and RR do not live near as long as the OEM parts. Not because of quality issues, just because there is only so much cooling for the windings available so it will run hotter. Hot is bad for life. In the world of energy, you never get anything for free there is always some trade off somewhere. In this case you are getting more power traded for more heat.
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dog
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I did use a piece of wood to help get it up. There is a triangular brace welded in at the inside of each caster. You can just see it in the top pic. There is a strap to keep the center stand from collapsing with forward movement of the bike. Speaking of the snopercharger, now I have time to get back to it........ I dont know if I want to make these for sale.......I sure made a mess in my basement.
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Title
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car
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splash
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Front tire on 1st gen E3 or...?
Flyinfool replied to jasonm.'s topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have E3 front and rear and an very happy with the handling. I have no clue how an E3 will mix with a Commander. -
run
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A Chevy.......
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WHY would you imply that I can think?????
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splat
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Why does Bubber think he is a teenager that is texting?
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Dolly is done and bike is on it. Rolls around real nice. I can easily lift the front wheel to spin the bike as needed. When the casters are locked it hold position real good for wrenching. It did take a lot of oomph to get the bike up there since I am lifting it another 1/2 inch. It don't sound like a lot, but it does change the lift geometry of the center stand just enough to make it a lot harder to do. Next spring we will find out if there are any issues with getting the bike down off of the stand. The next thing will be to see if the wheels on the casters will hold the weight over time and temperature changes. If a caster should fail, that corner can only drop 3/16 of an inch, not near enough to tip the bike over. It will just be a PITA to get the bike off the dolly with a broken caster. IF I ever build another one, I will make some minor changes. 2" narrower and 2" longer. The casters cost more than the rest of the dolly. The total cost was real close to $100 in materials. The ones that are available to buy are $200 - $400. Actual time invested was not to bad. The cutting of the angle iron to length was done lights out by the band saw on auto, the hardest part was the scallops in the frame. I do not have a good way to make that cut, and that cut does need to be there to clear the back tire of the bike. NOW I can start all of my other winter projects on the bike and it will be a lot easier to work on.
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Now I found the history, Thanks for bursting my bubble.....