Flyinfool

Puc, just think of it as a big snowflake, with a guidance system.

Your close. The air compressor is for the ram air to get the engine started, and there is a heavy bungee cord to get the airplane up to flying speed on the ramp. And then it is hang on for dear life......

Here is a video of it.

You don't have to pull the motor, just the one exhaust pipe. OR, just cut the clamp band and use a new clamp.

Ahhh. Since you do not want it saved for you then we can send some your way..........

Ya I know this ain't MC related. BUT it sure do look like it will be fun. I just ordered this from Germany, it should be here in about 3 weeks. Then we get to see just how much trouble I can get myself into. I know that I am not the only one on this site that messes with RC toys. This should have a level flight speed of around 400KPH or 250 MPH. A little more coming out of a dive. It is called a Super Scout It has a wingspan of 44 inches and is 61 inches long. It should have a flying weight of around 14 lbs and the pulse jet engine has about 18 lbs of thrust. This means it can accelerate even going straight up. The whole rear half of the engine (the skinny part) will be glowing bright orange while it is running. It runs on a mixture of 50% gas and 50% diesel, with some 2 stroke oil added to that at a 50:1 mix. Sounds like a nice volatile mixture to me. Even though it looks like it is a complete aircraft, that is just a fiberglass shell, there is a lot of work that goes into making it flight ready. It will likely take me through most of the summer to get it built. Man I hate waiting for toys to show up in the mail.

Should we save some for you?

Here is how to check the battery and charging system. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/general-tech-library-read-only-/81297-testing-battery-charging.html

That sure sounds like rubbing to me...... Now we need a hard rain to wash the salt off the roads, and then a week of sun and wind to firm up the ground.

Putting the sensor in the battery will only warn you if that one cell has low acid level. If any other cell leaks it is the same as an unmonitored battery, the cell can be empty before you know you have a problem. Most battery leaks are from allowing a dead battery to freeze in extreme cold weather. I would just do the resistor and forget about it.

The inevitable tough truck pee match is why I posted no brands.

Start by pulling the battery, take it home and charge it fully. Then take the battery in for load testing.

Then the powered donuts batteries went dead causing a total loss of power.......

That has a lot to do with things. I change out tires when they hit 50% of original tread depth, and I only buy real good tires. Good tires makes a big difference in both snow or mud. The emblem on the grill does make a difference in what can be driven thru. In our hunting group there is Ford Chevy and Dodge, all are ext cab, all are 4x4, all are 150 or 1500 series, all are factory stock. There is only one of them that always makes it through the mud hole on the road into our hunting area. It is not the driver, because the driver that always gets through can still not drive the other two trucks through the mud hole. Yes I have been avoiding mentioning which brand does and does not make it. Just trying to point out there is a difference.

I used both.

Sounds like fun. Brings back memories of last Easter where there was a fresh 16 inch snowfall the day we were heading up to camp to treat the lackofupnorthitis that we all developed over the winter. that 16 inches was on top of the 2 feet that was already there. I knew better than to try to get off the main road thru the 6 foot high snow berm from the plows so we dug thru that. Then drove up the 400 foot driveway dragging bottom and pushing snow the whole way, but we made it.

I'm not sure, but I may have seen the tip of A blade of grass in the back yard today. Might have been an illusion......

Nothing

Do you believe anything you see on the internet........

Yes it is at the lever. There are 4 wires going into it as there are 2 seperate switches that are clutch activated. One is for the starter circuit and the other is for the cruise control. My bike is still buried under snow so I can not get you a pic for a few weeks yet.

Go ahead, say it again.......

I just finished getting all my parts. I am building it for 6 just in case I need 6 some day.

I would start looking at the clutch switch. It is easy to clean the contacts and easier to get to. Looking at the wiring diagram, unless I missed something, the side stand switch will not disable cranking, just turns off the ignition to kill the engine.

Congrats on the journey. Even though you "cheated"....

Besides the 2nd gen guys dont know what a tach is........