Flyinfool

Is that a spanking I hear happening.......

I remember a while back there was a set of floorboards and heel toe shifter making the rounds, everyone that tried them on a 1st gen went back to pegs and toe, and sent them on the the next person that thought they would like it. All of the replies to this thread are from 2nd gen owners, I have never heard of a 2nd gener that did not prefer the heel toe on that bike. Although I have never tried a set yet, it just does not look like it would work for me on my 1st gen. Just saying, look close at what bike your opinions are coming from. 1st and 2nd gens are totally different seating positions and bike layout, only the name is similar.

On a 2nd gen you can switch to reserve while moving, on a 1st gen you have to get off the bike to make the switch, not a good idea on the side of the highway. That is why most 1st gens just run in reserve all the time and use the gas gage and blinking light. Its no different than driving your cage, there is no reserve, you just need to pay attention to the gage and mileage since the last stop.

Thats why I fit in here so well..... Oh and it snowed yesterday, and may snow some more tonight.

Here is the regs; Transportation Here is the pertinant part; Figure 9;

It might even be that at idle the turn signals are dropping the system voltage enough to dim the lights. This effect will be amplified if you have a very slow idle and / or more than the stock signal lights and/or anything else that is pulling a lot of power to help bring the system voltage down. Hold a higher RPM similar to cruise RPM and see if the issue goes away.

Actually the law does require the eye so that it will shut of the modulation at night. There are too many dummies that would try to run it at night if they had the option. The eye will also stop the flash if you pull into a dark tunnel or building or under a bridge, so that you are not suddenly looking for a switch and driving with a strobe light.

Ok, I am a professional, just not in residential furnaces. A furnace is simply the opposite of a snow machine so that gives me some unique experience and insight. As for the heat exchanger. Do you have a carbon monoxide detector in the house? If not you should. I have 3. There should be a limit switch in there for plenum temp, once it got to the set temp the burner shuts off. This should have kept the heat exchanger from getting to hot. In normal operation this switch should never trip, it is there for your exact situation, lack of airflow over the heat exchanger causing overheat. I would look at the PC board close for any more poor solder joints, maybe give all of the connector joints a touch with the iron just like we often have to do on our bikes. Also if visible, take a look at the relay contacts.

Gentlemen???? You have obviously not met all of us yet......

The CMS will probably flash with the brake modulator but should go off completely once the brake light goes solid. If you have LED brake lights then you will have already jumped out the CMS.

A headlight modulator will not work with a HID headlight. Depending on the specific LED head light the modulator may or may not work. A headlight modulator works by raising and lowering the voltage to the headlight, it never actually turns the headlight off, it just dims it. A LED element runs on around 4 volts, so there is some kind of voltage reduction built into the LED "ballast". If that reduction is in the form of a regulator, the regulator may smooth out the voltage fluctuations coming from the modulator and the LED will stay steady on, IF there is just a power resistor in that ballast, then the voltage fluctuations will make it thru to the LED element and you will get something from the modulator. A modulator by law is required to fluctuate from full bright to dim, NOT off. with the LED the dim part may turn the LED off, This would make it a flashing light and not a modulated light and would be illegal to use. Your best bet would be to contact the manufacturer of the specific LED that you have to see if it will work with a modulator.

Even a MLB baseball player. If you hit the ball one out of 3 times up you are considered a great batter and will be paid many millions for that.

That has already been thought of......... The shed is hled together with pan head screws. I already had to remove the center screw in the door frame for windshield clearance.

The weather Saturday for the M&E looks like it will be sunny but cool. We can turn the M&E into a mini MD. How many VentureRiders does it take to sync some carbs..........? I am building one of the electronic Sync tools, it that works out well, I "might" sell my Morgan carb tune. Puc, You said it, You ain't that far away, You should come to the M&E over here...... Maybe can get you a guided tour of the famous Snowper Charger and the jet powered snowflake.

I must be in my 70's.

Does the length of the white spacer have an effect on the hight of the front end when the bike is completely unloaded, not even a driver? With my old worn out springs the top of my windshield clears the door frame to my shed by less than 1/8 inch, if the front sits any higher with the progressives it will hit going thru the door. If there is an increase in height, can I slide the fork tubes up in the triple tree to get the door clearance back?

I think you done good so far if the OP shows no interest by the end of today, it yours. A lot also has to do with the forum. There are some forums where the proper protocol would be to snap up the item and then launch a preemptive string of profanity at the OP to the effect of you snooze you loose. Fortunately this forum attracts people that do not think that way.

Cool beans. Now that you have a fast bike again maybe you can sneak off next weekend for Milwaukee M&E.

Maybe the marks are so that if you take it apart you can get it back the same way it was. As in once the parts wear in together, you want to keep the same relative position. Of course this is just a WAG on my part. I really know nothing, and will admit to less.

KY I'm not sure we can beat, Not worried about anyone else........ This is Wisconsins year. They just have crazy good players. They are all good shooters, none are selfish. You double team the big guy and the uncovered guy will stick it in the hole.

That is not a turbine, (I have other planes with turbines...) It is a Pulse Jet, just like on the V-1. The V-2 was a liquid fueled rocket more like a ballistic missile, designed to go mostly straight up and straight down, the V-1 was more like a cruise missile designed to fly fairly level to its target. That pic of the end of the jet is looking in the small end of the jet. I'll get you some more pics later........ I have 2 other airplanes on the bench that are nearly finished but I have to finish them first to make room for this one. So It will be a while before I really get into this one. Once I do get into this one, it will take a long time to finish. While it looks nearly complete, that is just a fiberglass shell, I have to design and build all of the internal structures, and fuel systems and control systems. There is really not much to a pulse jet engine, they are very simple devices. Mine has just one moving part and that is a read valve on the intake. There are pulse jets that have NO moving parts. They have been known to be put on bikes. See how I worked in a MC reference...... If you ever get headed west while CTFWing be sure to let me know and stop on by.

For my power block, the always hot block is fed direct from the battery thru a 40 Amp MAXI fuse. Each accessory still gets its own fuse from there. The switched side is fed direct from the battery thru a 30 Amp fuse and a relay. The control side of the relay can be connected to any convenient circuit that comes on and off with the switch. Each accessory still gets its own fuse from there. This way none of your added accessories are pulling power thru the bikes electrical system other than the charging system. Saves wear and tear on the weak ignition switch.

I sure hope you get to play WI.......

On my bike I added power and ground terminal blocks. The ground block goes direct to the battery negative. The power block is half direct to battery and half switched to only come on with the key. Your bike is now 10 years old and still aging, there are so many posts of electrical issues that end up being ground issues. If it is grounding to a steel frame it will eventually rust and compromise the ground. The higher the amps, the faster it dies.