Flyinfool

But can it fetch Ice cream?

Just for testing switch hoses between 1 and any other carb. Does the same gauge stay steady or does the steady move to a different gauge?

If it is still cranking all the time. Disconnect the small wire from the solenoid. reconnect the neg battery cable. If it cranks, bad solenoid. If that stops it, reconnect the small wire to the solenoid, if it starts cranking again, problem somewhere in low power side of starting circuit.

That why I said the next time it wont crank. Doesn't the kill switch disable the starter circuit?? Or will the kill switch just kill the ignition but still let you crank?

Just a few thoughts. 6 Gallons is a lot of gas in there. I am sure there is still gas in the oil. A normal oil change does not drain the transmission or the oil galleries, but the engine and trans do share the same oil. Now that you ran it, do another oil change, this time also pull the bottom bolt out of the middle gear cover to drain the trans. Have a new copper crush washer ready for that bottom bolt. The gas could have washed all of the oil out of the clutch pac, but I would think that would make it grabby, not slip. Since gas and oil are pretty closely related, I would be surprised if it actually damaged the clutch or any seals. Try running it for a little while, in gear and clutch pulled in, as if you were at a stop light, this may help flush fresh oil into the clutch plates and get the gas out from between them.

It could easily be the plugs. Seafoam is hard on the plugs. These bikes are very sensitive to plugs. Sometimes they look fine but the problems still go away with new plugs.

Neat, I like it.

I am not sure of the legality of a continuously flashing red light regardless of the pattern. The brake strobes all flash for a few seconds and then go solid on.

Leaving the wing home just cuz SNOW is still a possibility up here?

Solenoid is not to hard to get to. Find the solenoid and put a finger on it to see if you can feel it click with the start button. There is more than one relay that clicks with the start button and you could be hearing that. Next time it does not want to crank, jumper the 2 big wires on the solenoid. If it does not crank it is a starter motor problem. If it does crank then try connecting a jumper from the small wire on the solenoid to battery negative. If you can hear and feel the solenoid clicking but it does not crank, bad solenoid. If connecting that ground wire the solenoid does not click, bad solenoid. It is also possible for the solenoid contacts to be burnt and operating intermittently. There are more possibilities but this is the easy stuff to try first.

When you start it up, check the temperature of the exhaust right at the head. they should all be the same. Careful, it dont take long to get hot enough to burn ya. Are you using the choke? Are you turning the choke off to soon?

I am at 56K and about to do the first check. IF it shows that all is good you at least now have peace of mind knowing that all is good. If you did not check, then with every ride you would be worried about burning that exhaust valve. So all was not for nothing. Peace of mind is worth a lot.

Dingy In one of those pics it sure looks like one of the jumpered fuse holders the wires were melting. Someone was real close to letting all of the smoke out of their bike. I wonder what the rest of their wire harness looks like....... There are supposed to be 2 spare fuses in that slot. I can understand there being no mention of the spare fuse in the service manual. A tech in the shop should replace with a new fuse and not use up the bikes spare. I have not looked but that spare should be mentioned in the owners manual. I found my spares while I was upgrading to the MAXI fuse. I turned the fuse holder over and they fell out. I did a similar upgrade but I used a MAXI fuse. Even though they make a 40 amp ATC fuse, the contacts will get warm to hot with continuous power draw of high 30s. While it is probably still safe, It is to close to the edge for my taste. But then I am the master of overkill.

Its not that easy to get rid of family. Just because you are not riding does not mean you can not be part of this family. There is nothing that will be held against you if you show up at events in a cage.

I have heard that air pillow theory before, but there is still no way these old bones are getting into that position in the first place.

When the anti dive was ripped off, did it pull the mounting bolts out of the fork tube or break the anti dive unit. If the fork tube was damaged at the AD mounting then even block off plates will not mount.

4000 Is right where she likes to cruise.

You already said the bike rolls around fine in neutral. while pushing it, click it into gear. It should stop right there if everything in the drive line is connected. If it does not stop but you feel increased rolling resistance. then you know the drive line from rear wheel thru transmission is good. This simple test will confirm it is a clutch issue without tearing anything apart. What does the fluid in the clutch master look like? It should be clear, it is probably dark brown.

I think if I had something that fast I would be driving with no license......... My next door neighbor is still trying to talk me into trading bikes for a day ride. As much as I would like to take his Hayabusa GSX1300R with the rear wheel extension for a spin, I just know he will drop my poor venture. He has dropped his Busa 3 times last summer that I know of.

On the local news they said people are finding debris from the Illinois tornadoes, in Wisconsin. What was left of that same storm cell went right over Milwaukee. Fortunately it was no longer severe when it got here. I sure hope all of our members from down there are OK.

:rotf: :rotf::rotf::rotf:

And this is why they make different coupling systems and different kinds of bikes and different kinds of cars.......etc. ALL of the different systems have pros and cons. Some of those pros and cons may be real, or perceived, or even just imagined. Each person has to make the choice based on the features that are most important to them. Many of us are very passionate about our choices for various reasons, that does not make it the best choice for the next person. Fortunately, I have no personal experience with hitting something with the trailer big enough to cause a potential trailer flip. Nor do I have personal experience with dropping the bike with trailer attached or even reaching the limits of travel on a swivelless ball. I made my choice in coupling method based on my meager engineering background and my own preconceived beliefs. Yes I did avoid stating which choice I made and why. If some one really wants to know my choice and why, send me a PM and I will be happy to discuss it with you. This topic ranks right up there in volatility with oil and tires.

I think I would have no tongue left to bite.........

Not only that but I would bet the kid forgot to tell his boss about the incident..... Domino Pizza caught a LOT of flack a few years back about their drivers getting in accidents because they advertised how fast they delivered. I'll bet Jimmy Johns does not want the negative publicity about how their drivers have to drive to deliver "freaky fast".

I don't think it is the spring that causes the friction zone to get very narrow, I believe like Dingy mentioned it is the half plate that gives the nice wide friction zone. I have been contemplating going back to the half plate just to see if I will still get no slippage because of the stronger spring but still get back the friction zone.