Flyinfool

I thought that it is not an oil pressure switch but an oil level switch. This is why under very hard acceleration the oil light can come on as the oil sloshes to the rear of the oil pan. I would hate for the headlight to go out under hard acceleration at night. There was a thread where there was a lot of discussion of possibilities and what would or would not work and why.

:sign yeah that: OR Did you pinch a wire while moving things around durring the handle bar change? Is there still enough slack in all of the wires to allow full lock to lock movement of the steering without pulling or pinching a wire?

http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?HID_Time_Delay_Relay-pid602.html

Welcome back.

You could use @cowpucs method and just not wear a shirt......... On second thought, please keep your shirt on..... If you go into any place that sells tablets or cell phones they have screen covers like what you are talking about. They are not expensive, just get one bigger and cut it to size. Or get one smaller and put it on half of the screen to see what difference it makes. ANY film that you put over the display will reduce brightness, but if it is an anti glare film the reduction in reflections may make up for the reduced brightness with an improved visibility.

1. White smoke when cold is normal. 2. Well known issue, upgrading to a 4 brush starter and 4 AWG starter cables fixes the slow crank. 3. Hard to turn over when hot is normal, #2 fixes this. 4. NOT good, take the connection apart and clean the contact areas on both the battery and the terminal. Check where the terminal is connected to the wire for corrosion. it should NOT get hot. 5. As mentioned above 90% of the time resoldering the connector fixes this. 6. Thats normal. Are you using the choke? Full choke will have it running around 3,000 when you first start it. 7. There are some threads on how to fix the trunk cracking and how to clean the chrome. Don't just slap in a new stator. First fix the bad battery connection in #4 . Then do the charging system check to determine if there even is a problem with what you have.

DOH!!!!

You could try calling one of the HID suppliers to see what the correct method of determining if it is the bulb, ballast or both that are bad. I can see the possibility of a bad bulb taking out the ballast, or a bad ballast taking out the bulb.

HA! I knew you were holding out on us.......... Do you need one more quick to get those fingers back into flyin mode?

You troublemaker............ How many time I gotta tell you people to not post stuff like this where I can see it.

I'm in. I'll be there whether by cage or by bike. It is looking more and more like by cage, but I'm still coming. Hmmmmm......... Cage means more room for RUM Balls.........

You can not just pull the plug on your extended family. You know we will still hunt you down and make you smile and laugh till your face and sides hurt. We wont give up that easy. Useful input does not have to be technical in nature. Just being you can be plenty useful.

If the bike is put away hot on a hot day some fuel can evaporate. It is common in cooler weather to have full carbs the next time you start. Oil changes are good, washing is bad.........Only need a wash once every couple of years.........Just when the farmers start complaining about not enough dirt in their fields.

Here is a clue http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92774-What-s-in-a-name-(Tell-us-about-your-username)&p=880071#post880071

If the carbs are full of fuel the pump will not click.

I have not found any type of film that actually helps visibility in bright sunlight. It is just counter intuitive that placing something that will filter out some light can make it brighter, but sellers do it all the time. Some filter out certain colors so that it appears to have more contrast and forms an optical illusion of being brighter, but in reality is less light reaching your eyes. You need a display that is designed to be readable in bright sunlight. Many of the GPS made for motorcycles have this type of display, knowing that there will be no shade on a bike. Many made for cars assume that the roof will shade the display to make it readable.

Marine is good for that ride in a partly cloudy downpour or every other year when the bike gets washed and you might water the gage in the process. I think a volt meter is what you really want. Amp meters are much more difficult to hook up and do not distinguish between a high amp draw because the battery is charging or a 2 high load on the system.

But can it fetch Ice cream?

Just for testing switch hoses between 1 and any other carb. Does the same gauge stay steady or does the steady move to a different gauge?

If it is still cranking all the time. Disconnect the small wire from the solenoid. reconnect the neg battery cable. If it cranks, bad solenoid. If that stops it, reconnect the small wire to the solenoid, if it starts cranking again, problem somewhere in low power side of starting circuit.

That why I said the next time it wont crank. Doesn't the kill switch disable the starter circuit?? Or will the kill switch just kill the ignition but still let you crank?

Just a few thoughts. 6 Gallons is a lot of gas in there. I am sure there is still gas in the oil. A normal oil change does not drain the transmission or the oil galleries, but the engine and trans do share the same oil. Now that you ran it, do another oil change, this time also pull the bottom bolt out of the middle gear cover to drain the trans. Have a new copper crush washer ready for that bottom bolt. The gas could have washed all of the oil out of the clutch pac, but I would think that would make it grabby, not slip. Since gas and oil are pretty closely related, I would be surprised if it actually damaged the clutch or any seals. Try running it for a little while, in gear and clutch pulled in, as if you were at a stop light, this may help flush fresh oil into the clutch plates and get the gas out from between them.

It could easily be the plugs. Seafoam is hard on the plugs. These bikes are very sensitive to plugs. Sometimes they look fine but the problems still go away with new plugs.

Neat, I like it.

I am not sure of the legality of a continuously flashing red light regardless of the pattern. The brake strobes all flash for a few seconds and then go solid on.