Flyinfool

If they do not answer you leave bad feedback, with the new setup that really gets their attention. If you paid thru Pay Pal, start a claim. It will at least freeze the money so they can not get to it. When you take money out of their pocket it gives them more incentive to work it out. Pay Pal almost always sides with the buyer.

The actual vacuum number does not matter that much, it is that they are all the same that is most important. Your idle speed will have a big impact on the actual vacuum number.

The 86 and newer have the lid to the saddlebags that can fall off and go skidding down the pavement. They always slide with the painted side down.......... Don't ask how I know this.........

HEY!!!! You moving in with me????? That sounds a lot like my house.

It snowed on and off all day today. Now what direction to send it. Eini meny miney mo........

Sure looks like fun.

Isn't going in circles what you normally do???? It's just state or country sized circles.......

Just think how many more stickers Tweeks could beg you for if you she had a sidecar........

Maybe its a different globe than this one we are on. Venus and Mars are both getting warmer...........

If using something to seal the pinholes, do not coat the whole diaphragm, use a small brush or something to just seal the holes. This way you do not stiffen the whole thing. Sealing the holes with anything is still only a temporary fix, plan on getting new diaphragms in the not real distant future.

I have my HID triggered by the brake light. It is pretty hard to get very far without touching one of the brakes. it is set up so that once on it stays on till the ignition is turned off. I had looked into options of triggering off the side stand switch, charging voltage, a separate manual switch, the neutral light, even spark detection, and of course a simple 10 second delay relay. For me the brake light was the easiest and most reliable choice.

Yes you did. Summer has been canceled due to a lack of interest. Well either that or that @saddlebum up north O da border leaving the back door open again, yet, still.........

Yes this could be related. Take apart the clutch switch and clean the contacts. Also make sure that the switch is able to move freely its full distance.

MMMmmmmmm......... RUM Balls.............

Well there is my mug showing in a couple of Dingys pics. That could be part of the problem too.

One down. One of those projects on the bench is finished. I am now a little closer to starting in on this one.

You must work fast. I have never been able to clean the exterior of a vehicle in under 2 days.

I like the other manuals better. I am doing my bikes first ever valve check at 58,000 miles, so half are still in spec.

OOPIE!!!!! Someone dared me......... Said it couldn't be done....... You know I can't resiste a good challenge...... Are you saying I gots to do some sneakin and hiden at Dons......... But at least it woke you up and got your fingers back to typin.......

Which kit from Skydoc? Did you put in the kit that includes a full disk to replace the half disk from the factory? If so then you will end up with the wire, 2 big washers and the half disk left over. If you put in just the new spring. then the wire retainer should have been put back in. If you upgraded to the full clutch disk, the friction zone feels very different from what you are used to. The clutch will not grab until the last little bit of lever travel, and it will grab quickly with very little movement of the lever. It does take some getting used to because it is a very different feel.

Are you saying that this is the first time the clutch actually worked and hooked up with no slip?

Did you use a drill bit MADE for drilling plastic. It really does make a difference.

X-Rays are to inexpensive by themselvs.......

OUCH!!!! The truth sure hurts........

Check for power in the wires (not the clips) on both sides of the ignition fuse. Those glass fuse clips are notorious for bad connections.