Flyinfool

I did not even know that there were VR shirts available. Oh well, here we go again....

Yes there is some kind of brown coating on the board, some have noticeably more than others, some look like they went mud racing and have obvious signs that there was water inside of there.

I thought I read somewhere on this site that with the pump bypass the bike will run, but you may go lean at high rpm, and the last gallon or 2 will not have enough head pressure to feed. But then it is a 2nd gen and I may have no clue what I am talking about.

Probably cant get a new OEM one for much less. But the Mr Gasket is a LOT less. Or you can get a good used OEM and slap new contacts in it and be good to go.

I just used a smear of electrical safe RTV silicone on all of the seams and the vent holes that let the water in in the first place, and then a bunch of dielectric grease on the connectors to seal that up.

WOW Does that include lube oil filter carb rebuild and new tires mounted and balanced?

I sure hope that since we have not heard from him for an hour and he is not answering his phone that he has it running and is headed down the road.

Any issue at all with the Class system I would start by resoldering the connector pins on the circuit board, that fixes so many evils.

That first box that the battery cable goes to is the starter solenoid and main fuse. If the main fuse was bad nothing that comes on with the key would work on the bike. Fast clicking of the solenoid is usually a low power from the battery condition. I am assuming you do not have a volt meter or other electrical stuff handy. When you try to crank the bike if the headlight goes out completely you may have a weak/dead battery. If the headlight stays bright while trying to crank then you have a bad connection. The head light should dim but not go out while cranking. These 2 tests may not be valid with a HID or LED headlight. Check the battery terminals to be sure they are clean. Using 2 screwdrivers, or a pair of pliers or what ever you have handy try to jump the two big wire connections on the solenoid. Be ready for sparks, Be very careful to not make a short to ground.

Yammer did buy a 2nd gen. He is officially old now.

With the bike warm to where you have lost charging, measure AC voltage from each of the stator wires to ground with the stator not connected to the RR. If you get anything other than zero volts the stator windings are grounding when it gets warm. You can also do the same check with the bike warm, engine off and check resistance on the highest ohms scale from each of the stator wires to ground. it should be infinite resistance.

The diodes are super cheap so it is worth the shot to repair it. Almost any rectifier diode will work, the most common is a 1N400x, the x can be any number, it don't matter. These used to be available at Radio Shacks, with the recent reorganization of RS I do not know what they still carry, my local one is one that closed. The diodes are available from Digi-Key for $1.75 for 10, you need 8. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N4006G/1N4006GOS-ND/1485478 The shipping will be more than the parts. Once you replace all of the diodes, plug the TCI into the bike and make sure all pipes are getting hot at the same rate then go thru the effort to seal the TCI back up and install properly in the bike.

The pickup is operated by counting the gear teeth of the pinion gear as they go by. You may need to machine a hole in the differential located over the pinion gear to mount the pickup. You may then need to do some recalibration to get the speedometer back to reading correctly. I do not know if it would work to make up a plate that spun at rear tire speed with an appropriate number of holes to get the speedo to read that plate.

Did you spend to much time with @cowpuc last year and learn some of his CTFW habits? Come to intersection and flip a coin.....

Its good to be still kickin. Them docs can do some pretty wild things these days.

I think we need Moe information........

Dan you can always try to catch up to @cowpuc on sticker count and not have to paint nuttin. I bet that Cowpuc could even tell just where to go to get the perfect sticker for that spot. I know Puc is always telling me where to go......

Yes it could increase your gas mileage, but your right wrist will cancel any MPG gains....

Sounds like a great time, wish I could have been there.

Even less dramatic here, spent 4 hours mowing the yard, grass area is only 30 x 50 feet..........

You said that you ran wire other than copper. Aluminum? Exactly what kind of wire did you run and what gauge is it? The wire you ran has more to do with how much power is available than the breaker in the house. With Aluminum wire you must also be sure that all connections at both ends are rated safe for aluminum wire. Some things are rated for less power with aluminum.

Boy that was a lot of blowing you just did.......... If blowing into the fuel line to the carbs causes gurgling in the carbs, you may have an issue with the floats or float valves. IF the carbs are full you should not be able to blow into them, the float valve should be closed.

Oh man, that does wet my appetite. Thanks

Medical Associates? You better get riding so you can feel better soon.

You obviously need a waterproof camera. You should know the rules by now, if there aint no pics, it didn't happen.