Flyinfool

Just needs a bit of 12ga tenderizer, thats all......

At least wave when you go zippin past Wisconsin.......

Rooster chili????

The fuel pump will not run if the carbs float bowls are full. Open the drain on one of the carbs (use a small jar or can to catch the gas) and turn the key on, the pump should now run and more gas should come out of the drain.

Are you getting a puddle anywhere? The AF has to be going somewhere. Check to be sure it is not going into the oil. Also there is the possibility that there was some air in the system that has been getting purged out.

Interesting remedy, drink a lot of whiskey and then rub it. to get the whiskey to the surface........ At least if you used enough whiskey you will feel no pain........

And while you are cleaning the starter switch, clean the HI / LO beam switch. My headlight stops working almost every year and I just have to clean the switch. Cleaning the switch is actually easier than changing the bulb.

Go to the top right corner of the screen. Click settings. Look at the left edge of the screen and scroll down to the box that says, "My Settings" In that box are several sup headings, go to "My Account" In that section the very bottom entry is "Paid Subscriptions" This is where you can pay your dues. All of the above is not to be confused with the box that says "My Subscriptions" with a single subheading of "Subscriptions" this is not the right place.

More neat trailers. http://www.carreplicatrailers.com/

Interesting.

I am holding off on starting anything with making a new collector until it is for sure whether or not Mark will be supplying the 1st gen collectors again. I have no desire to try to compete with Mark or anyone else if he/they are going to be making these. I would have to sell a bunch of them just to break even on the tooling costs.

OR you could do like others, like @cowpuc has done for his last 200K miles, just do not use second gear. The lose of 2nd gear is not something that will cause any additional damage to anything, so it is safe to ignore it. You can at least put it off for a winter project while you watch the SNOW fall. You can often find complete newer transmissions that have the "fix" on ebay to just drop in. Second gear is a issue on most all 83, 84 and early 85 Ventures. It was mid 85 that Yamaha fixed the problem. As for the CLASS (Air Ride), it to has a common issue with bad solder joints on the connector to the circuit board. Also the CLASS will only work with the key in ACC, it will not work in RUN, this is by design.

That looks nutz. Good luck and have fun. Just not for this marshmallow butt.

The V-max parts will make mileage worse if your right wrist ever discovers their presence. Scrapping various parts of the bike in the curves causes a lot of drag and will eat up gas too.

Could be both stater and RR. The high voltage makes it look like the RR, but then with a new good battery and getting low volts makes it look more like a bad connection or bad stater. More testing.

The E4 error code is very common. Pull out the controller and resolder all of the connector pins to the circuit board. The solder cracks from old age and gives a bad connection.

There is a young girl that regularly hits people up in front of the plant I work at. Here story is always that her car ran out of gas 2 blocks from here and she was just up in Milwaukee (I work in Racine, 15 miles south of Milwaukee) visiting her mother in the hospital. She just needs $20 for gas money to get back there to pick up her purse. She will come right back to give me back my money. In most cars you are talking 1 gallon of gas to make that trip. The last time I saw her I said "Boy are you stupid, once a month around the end of the month you leave your purse in Milwaukee while visiting your mother in the hospital, AND you obviously have no clue how little they pay here." I have not seen her for the last 6 months.

There are a couple of different parts involved.

Mostly it is not the whole side panel that needs to be replaced, just the small individual louvers that are roughly 4 inches long by 3/4 inch wide and 1/8 thick with a small hinge pin at each end. It is the individual louvers that break and fall out never to be seen again.

Yup, most dealers will not touch a bike more than 10 years old. Most of there mechanics are probably not old enough to have ever seen a NEW 1st gen Venture.

Congrats. I never found anyone that could put up with me for anywhere near that long.

Dang, my NGKs have been in the bike since I got the bike 7 years ago, they should be good for another 7 years. I did pull them out last year just to check, and they looked beautiful. My old GMC P/U could get a max of about 120K from a set of plugs before the performance would start to drop. BUT it only got those miles if you put in the expensive double platinum plugs, the cheap plugs still died in 20K. I also use anti size on aluminum heads. Just sprinkle some SNOW on that there @cowpuc predator dude and perpetual :witch_brew:er. Sends him right into hibernation. Even the mighty and Wiley Pucster has his weaknesses, a chink in his armor, that can be exploited by a top tier predator. Once we can get him into hibernation and cowering in the corner watching it SNOW out on the patio, then we can get him back to writing those wonderful ride reports that he does all winter. You are gonna need a bigger spoon Pucster. So goes the circle of life.

A trip like that is only in my dreams. Sounds like a blast. Oh Oh Ed, now you got the picture police on your tail. You gots to watch out fer dat @cowpuc.

Dang it anyhow....:mo money:

I don't know, you do get condensation inside of an engine. There is a lot of moisture in blow by and all ringed engines have blow by. When the engine cools, that moisture is going to condense somewhere, and since the engine is basically sealed that condensate will sit there until the next time the engine is warmed up. I would think that the condensate would form on the parts of the engine that get cool the fastest, like the inside of the valve covers. but that moisture is still there. All I know is that the oil I have been using could not protect bare metal for 2 days while indoors. None of the major brands mention anything about rust protection on their websites. I think I am going to give Castrol a try. When I had the race car the engine was often left open for days at a time and nothing ever rusted. That engine got nothing but Castrol (They were a sponsor on the car). That engine never had an oil related problem and was pumping out 658 HP (dynoed) from a small block Chevy at 8,000 rpm all summer long on a 1/3 mile oval.