Flyinfool

Exhaust leaks can cause popping and high temps. Most likely the non working temp gage is cuz you knocked a wire off the sender located just above the right front cylinder head. The fan switch and the temp sender are right next to each other but different parts, so either one can work fine without the other.

Here is how the edge is assembled. The lens is Chemically welded (permanently glued) at the point where the two meet. I had to put the small screw driver in the slot in between the lens and the base. In your case since you are trying to save the base and not the lens, the base is a much softer plastic and the lens is a very hard brittle plastic, so the lens will break long before the base will break. Once you get it apart it will be fairly floppy. When you are ready to glue it back together, I mounted the base to the trunk to hold its shape and then glued the lens to the base.

Have you taken the switch apart to see what the issue is? It is easy to do.

My 88 standard does have the 3 screws, be worth checking, you could do a lot of prying on that tape if it is still screwed down.

OK Here is my take. This is 100% purely a WAG / wishful thinking on my part with no basis in fact whatsoever. When the spy Photos of the air cooled V-twin got out, Yami actually looked at the extreme backlash of their riders and determined that only about a half dozen or so would sell to the loyal riders. SOOoooo Yami either just scrapped it all together and is out of the touring market, or they are listening to us for a change and figuring out how to pull that V-twin out of that frame to stuff in the new V-Max V4. OK may it is not quite so much WAG and more of just wishful thinking. And then I woke up..........

Getting the reflector off of the trunk is the easy part. Mine was held on by double sided tape and 3 screws from the inside of the trunk. I used the sharp corner of a thin piece of sheet metal to get up between the reflector and the trunk to cut the tape. It is separating the reflector from the backing that is hard to do. I have never had the opportunity to play with a BB reflector, only OEM Yamaha. The reflector and base are chemically welded together. You have to work your way all around breaking that weld to separate them. I used a small 1/8 wide screwdriver to pry them apart bit by little bit. I used hot glue the first time to reassemble, first time I rode in cold weather the reflector disappeared. Second time I used clear silicone to glue it back together. Has held fine for 4 years now.

On the other hand and we will never know. The seller did have the clause in there that he reserve the right to end the auction early.

sure went up quick at the end $12,900

At this point we need a pic of what you have. People in this thread are discussing 2 different versions of the trunk reflector. Parts for the 2 versions are not interchangeable.

http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/yamaha_rc_compnents_eclipse.htm Very bottom of page?

You asked for it..... Magic Blue Smoke Refilling Kit. But on the other hand, I have thought about getting a bad stater to try my hand at rewinding one for more output power.

I started out with a Harley Sport 50 when I was in my early 20s. Once I figured out that it would only pull my big but at 35 to 40 mph, I got a Honda 250. That 250 could at least get me up to 55 MPH but with the wife on back it was back down to about 40 tops. So I traded both of those bikes in on a Yamaha XS650, put on a bat wing faring that I got from a bike salvage yard along with some hard side bags from same salvage trip. For a trunk I had a milk crate attached to the luggage rack. That bike was totaled back around 1980 when I took on an Olds 98 head on, and won. I replaced it with a Kaw 750 with full Windjammer with lowers, and matching luggage. Wife and I loved to ride that thing, never took an overnight trip but did a lot of day rides. Kids were old enough to leave alone for a few hours but not overnight. Then the wife became an exwife and I sold the bike shortly thereafter. It took 20 years to get the bug back and I bought the 88 Standard that I have now. And just who is that Fiendish impostor WASHING a bike in @cowpucs driveway. Poor Tweeks must have really been cowering in a corner somewhere. Poor things, both Tweeks and that poor bike getting blasted.

IF you had a short then that spark would / should have already blown the fuse on the shorted circuit. I agree with Frank that most likely you were charging some capacitors with that first contact. If you do suspect a short and do not want to risk your meter, get a small 12V light bulb like the type used in the dash (type 194) attach wires to the bulb, connect one wire to the negative battery cable, and the other wire to the negative battery terminal. If the bulb lights up bright you have a problem that needs to be found. If the bulb lights up dim no mater how slightly, then you have something drawing power that will be enough to drain the battery. A dim bulb you can then safely use your amp meter to track down. A bright bulb could be a direct short that you need to find before putting your amp meter inline. Best way to find t is to have the bulb in and lit, and start pulling fuses till the bulb goes out, now you at least know which circuit has the problem. Hopefully you do not have a case of someone having wired up something with no fuse and the problem in the unfused circuit.

:sign yeah that: This one does not replace the stock reflector. The base that it does fit is discontinued and no longer available, this reflector is just old stock they are dumping.

different brands of the same weight oil will make a difference also. But the oil that makes one bike the quietest may be the loudest oil in the next bike.

I guess I can kind of see them not wanting to start it if they have a buyer with a down payment. Now if the buyer with the down payment were to call them to say that you are there on his behalf to check out the bike, then they may be more likely to allow you to hear it run.

Unfortunately your only recourse is used. You can check local bike salvage yards, and Ebay are your best shots. It may take a while of diligent looking to find a good one, but they are out there. Some people think theirs are solid gold. Just keep looking.

You were close, it had to do with flying........

Judging from the pic on that link, they should have a resistor bigger than 27 watts. what is in the pic is NOT a 25 or bigger resistor. That is why they even say it will get very hot in use. Then they covered it up with heat shrink so it can not get cooling air which will make it even hotter. Getting the correct Resistor that will not overheat would actually cost less that the one from CD. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UAL25-7R5F8/696-1293-ND/3886585

Puc follow directions, or worse yet use a map. I think the sky is falling.......

The "load Balancer" is just a power resistor, unless you have one of the "smart" balancers. There is nothing in them to "wear" But if you are running them right at the limit for their power rating they could overheat and degrade over time. Custom Dynamics has a lot of different types of load balancers, which one do you have?

Couple more thoughts. When I bought my bike I got the same story about insurance and test rides. The dealer said they had a rash of people that never rode a big or powerful bike coming in for a free rental / training bike and damaging them. But the dealer had no issues with starting it up to let me hear it run. They then gave a 30 minute unconditional warranty so that once I did ride it after I paid for it, if there was something wrong I could still cancel the sale. The only problem I had was trying to wipe the stupid grin off of my puss...... I think those windows cloud up over time, not mileage. Mileage has nothing directly to do with it. Part of the clouding could be from UV light. A lot of time on the road is a lot of UV exposure where a lot of time spent hiding in a garage will help them stay clear. My thought was that the front brake fluid looked like it was overdue for a change. My 88 has 55K on it and the front rotors show a lot more wear than those do. Unless of course mine is 155K and I just don't know it. That is also one of the very few 1st gens that i have seen with both corners of the fairing scratch free. If in fact it has never fallen on the right side then the plastic elbow off the water pump should be fine. Even just laying the bike down gently on soft grass will flex the engine guard enough to ding the elbow and case an eventual leak. Seen it a few times.

I'm a couch potato so I CAN eat all the pie I want.......