Flyinfool

Heck if I take off my glasses I can't see any of them.......

Just keep the voltmeter hooked up for a while to see if you can spot an intermittent issue. You may have very well have fixed the bad connection without noticing it as bad. Been there done that.

Madison WI airport is not real far from Orlins, and it is only about a mile from the interstate, or fly into Milwaukee and it is about a 3 hour ride and I'll buy the first round of ice cream in Milwaukee.

In Wisconsin the Governor IS a biker.

Its obvious, vote for Wisconsin.

The metric size just under 1/8 inch is 3mm. 1/8 inch is 0.125 inches, 3mm is 0.118 inches. http://www.mcmaster.com/#e-clips/=yyoryk

Maybe the freight charge was to deliver YOU to the bike. Glad you made it home and had a good trip. Now the fun begins.

And don't forget about the snowflake jet for rapid delivery on short notice. So many new surprises for this year............

I have an 88 standard. It took me a long time to convince some people that it even exists. I have no CLASS. If there is no air in my shocks with the bike on the side stand it will fall over to the right. If the air pressure is under 30 in the rear, I have to lean the bike to the right well past center to lower the side stand. All of your issues sound pretty normal to me. I ride all one up, I run 10 psi front, and 45 psi rear with the damping set on 2. The front Schrader valve is found next to the right front fork tube from the bottom side of the faring. As mentioned the suspension uses very little air, do not use a hose from an air compressor to adjust suspension or you stand a good chance of blowing out the seals. Use a small hand pump. Sounds like you already found the valve for the rear.

I never even thought of using the ferry to send you your due share of flakes.......... Great Idea, I already have a call in to the ferry to get quotes on a QUANTITY discount.

Seen it before but still love it.

I would say it is a standard, not a Royal. In the first pic you posted I do not see a radio or the controls for the radio, these would be present on a Royal. Royal has the air ride system, controls located in the right faring and compressor located under the trunk, the radio mounted in the left faring with controls on the left handlebar. Any where that you see a "Venture" logo would have the "Venture Royal" logo.

Happy wife happy life.......... just sumpin I've heard........

As for me personally. On most cars that use PWM to dim LEDs for driving lights, I can see the PWM frequency and the flashing hurts my eyes bad. I will do most anything to get in front of anything with PWM tail lights. Cadillac and Toyota are the worst ones. Running a LED at reduced voltage does not shorten its life. PWM is used because it is more energy efficient than having a resistor generating heat. On the LEDs under my kitchen cabinets for counter lighting I use a simple resistor to control brightness. These LEDs are now 10+ years old. Not one has burnt out, and they are on almost 24/7, they are turned down low with the potentiometer to act as a night light. Yes it is way more complicated than it needs to be, But some of us enjoy playing with electronics which makes it worth the effort, Sometimes "just cuz I can" is the only reason needed to do something that is not the easy way.

All of the voltages you stated are right where they should be. Having a voltmeter on board is great for keeping an eye on things.

check both filaments of the bulbs close, a bad bulb can cause either fast or slow blinking depending on how it fails.

You must have a newer paint. My old ancient one does not have that option.

Because people keep buying all of the hot air cooled bikes. Their thick heads are tied to their thick wallets.

The flickering light is more likely a symptom of the real problem. The light did not kill the battery the real problem did. Even if it is just temporary, get a digital voltmeter wired up to the bike so you can see voltage while riding. If it does not stay around 14 volts while riding then you have an issue. What the voltage changes to when it deviates from 14 volts will give us a clue on what the issue may be. It sounds to me like you have the dreaded intermittent electrical problem.The most difficult problem to accurately diagnose. Often it is finally fixed by taking educated guesses at possible causes and changing something at that cause until the problem goes away.

Isn't there a place out in California that takes old Indy cars and makes them street legal?

The ledge is very small and just for locating at assembly in reality the lens is glued on both the bottom and that tiny bit of side.

I have taken a bunch of deer with both the .243 and a 7mm-08. In the .243 I loaded with a 100g Nosler Partition. The 7mm-08 I loaded with 140g Nosler Ballistic Tip. They will both take down a deer right now. I do prefer the 7mm-08 for the simple reason that if you do not have the best shot angle along with a longer distance it does carry energy better than the .243 and is still able to break bone. My .243 was sold to my hunting buddy for his kid to use, it was a stainless, synthetic Remington Model 7. Since it is still in deer camp every year I can still grab it if I am planning a long hike, its a very light weight gun. I have been looking into selling/trading my 7mm-08 Lone Eagle for a Tikka T3 Lite in either 7mm Rem Mag or 7mm-08. I just love the performance of the 7mm Ballistic Tip on deer no mater what brass is behind it. A lite magnum is problem for me, I am not at all recoil sensitive, the more the merrier. AND no one wants to borrow or try out my guns. Saves on ammo. Your Tikka sounds interesting 270 is darn close to the same bullet as the 7mm, should have similar performance. Hmmmmmm..........

Cool! Welcome Back Again!

And I can unload 6.5x55 as fast as you can load them, you will get lots of practice. And if eusa1 cant keep up I am pretty good at unloading 38spl also. A new 500S&W or 50AE is still on my shopping list. I do all of my loading on a RCBS Rock Chucker press. It is a single stage so it is not real fast, but because I weigh each load it is more accurate than a progressive. Since most of what I load is rifle, accuracy is more important to me than volume. I am curious as to which 6.5 you have? I ask because all of the small ring Mausers in 6.5x55 that I have checked with chamber gages (5 so far) have all passed a NOGO gage. I redid my chamber to minimum specs and it made a world of difference in accuracy, 3 MOA down to 1/2 MOA.

When I did my tires the shop wanted $30 to mount balance and new metal valve stems with the wheels off the bike. They wanted an additional $250 if I just brought them the bike. Yes I took both wheels off without the benefit of a lift and just brought him the wheels with old tires and the new tires. Paid the $60 plus tax and tire disposal fees.