Flyinfool

The ledge is very small and just for locating at assembly in reality the lens is glued on both the bottom and that tiny bit of side.

I have taken a bunch of deer with both the .243 and a 7mm-08. In the .243 I loaded with a 100g Nosler Partition. The 7mm-08 I loaded with 140g Nosler Ballistic Tip. They will both take down a deer right now. I do prefer the 7mm-08 for the simple reason that if you do not have the best shot angle along with a longer distance it does carry energy better than the .243 and is still able to break bone. My .243 was sold to my hunting buddy for his kid to use, it was a stainless, synthetic Remington Model 7. Since it is still in deer camp every year I can still grab it if I am planning a long hike, its a very light weight gun. I have been looking into selling/trading my 7mm-08 Lone Eagle for a Tikka T3 Lite in either 7mm Rem Mag or 7mm-08. I just love the performance of the 7mm Ballistic Tip on deer no mater what brass is behind it. A lite magnum is problem for me, I am not at all recoil sensitive, the more the merrier. AND no one wants to borrow or try out my guns. Saves on ammo. Your Tikka sounds interesting 270 is darn close to the same bullet as the 7mm, should have similar performance. Hmmmmmm..........

Cool! Welcome Back Again!

And I can unload 6.5x55 as fast as you can load them, you will get lots of practice. And if eusa1 cant keep up I am pretty good at unloading 38spl also. A new 500S&W or 50AE is still on my shopping list. I do all of my loading on a RCBS Rock Chucker press. It is a single stage so it is not real fast, but because I weigh each load it is more accurate than a progressive. Since most of what I load is rifle, accuracy is more important to me than volume. I am curious as to which 6.5 you have? I ask because all of the small ring Mausers in 6.5x55 that I have checked with chamber gages (5 so far) have all passed a NOGO gage. I redid my chamber to minimum specs and it made a world of difference in accuracy, 3 MOA down to 1/2 MOA.

When I did my tires the shop wanted $30 to mount balance and new metal valve stems with the wheels off the bike. They wanted an additional $250 if I just brought them the bike. Yes I took both wheels off without the benefit of a lift and just brought him the wheels with old tires and the new tires. Paid the $60 plus tax and tire disposal fees.

Exhaust leaks can cause popping and high temps. Most likely the non working temp gage is cuz you knocked a wire off the sender located just above the right front cylinder head. The fan switch and the temp sender are right next to each other but different parts, so either one can work fine without the other.

Here is how the edge is assembled. The lens is Chemically welded (permanently glued) at the point where the two meet. I had to put the small screw driver in the slot in between the lens and the base. In your case since you are trying to save the base and not the lens, the base is a much softer plastic and the lens is a very hard brittle plastic, so the lens will break long before the base will break. Once you get it apart it will be fairly floppy. When you are ready to glue it back together, I mounted the base to the trunk to hold its shape and then glued the lens to the base.

Have you taken the switch apart to see what the issue is? It is easy to do.

My 88 standard does have the 3 screws, be worth checking, you could do a lot of prying on that tape if it is still screwed down.

Getting the reflector off of the trunk is the easy part. Mine was held on by double sided tape and 3 screws from the inside of the trunk. I used the sharp corner of a thin piece of sheet metal to get up between the reflector and the trunk to cut the tape. It is separating the reflector from the backing that is hard to do. I have never had the opportunity to play with a BB reflector, only OEM Yamaha. The reflector and base are chemically welded together. You have to work your way all around breaking that weld to separate them. I used a small 1/8 wide screwdriver to pry them apart bit by little bit. I used hot glue the first time to reassemble, first time I rode in cold weather the reflector disappeared. Second time I used clear silicone to glue it back together. Has held fine for 4 years now.

On the other hand and we will never know. The seller did have the clause in there that he reserve the right to end the auction early.

sure went up quick at the end $12,900

At this point we need a pic of what you have. People in this thread are discussing 2 different versions of the trunk reflector. Parts for the 2 versions are not interchangeable.

http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/yamaha_rc_compnents_eclipse.htm Very bottom of page?

You asked for it..... Magic Blue Smoke Refilling Kit. But on the other hand, I have thought about getting a bad stater to try my hand at rewinding one for more output power.

I started out with a Harley Sport 50 when I was in my early 20s. Once I figured out that it would only pull my big but at 35 to 40 mph, I got a Honda 250. That 250 could at least get me up to 55 MPH but with the wife on back it was back down to about 40 tops. So I traded both of those bikes in on a Yamaha XS650, put on a bat wing faring that I got from a bike salvage yard along with some hard side bags from same salvage trip. For a trunk I had a milk crate attached to the luggage rack. That bike was totaled back around 1980 when I took on an Olds 98 head on, and won. I replaced it with a Kaw 750 with full Windjammer with lowers, and matching luggage. Wife and I loved to ride that thing, never took an overnight trip but did a lot of day rides. Kids were old enough to leave alone for a few hours but not overnight. Then the wife became an exwife and I sold the bike shortly thereafter. It took 20 years to get the bug back and I bought the 88 Standard that I have now. And just who is that Fiendish impostor WASHING a bike in @cowpucs driveway. Poor Tweeks must have really been cowering in a corner somewhere. Poor things, both Tweeks and that poor bike getting blasted.

IF you had a short then that spark would / should have already blown the fuse on the shorted circuit. I agree with Frank that most likely you were charging some capacitors with that first contact. If you do suspect a short and do not want to risk your meter, get a small 12V light bulb like the type used in the dash (type 194) attach wires to the bulb, connect one wire to the negative battery cable, and the other wire to the negative battery terminal. If the bulb lights up bright you have a problem that needs to be found. If the bulb lights up dim no mater how slightly, then you have something drawing power that will be enough to drain the battery. A dim bulb you can then safely use your amp meter to track down. A bright bulb could be a direct short that you need to find before putting your amp meter inline. Best way to find t is to have the bulb in and lit, and start pulling fuses till the bulb goes out, now you at least know which circuit has the problem. Hopefully you do not have a case of someone having wired up something with no fuse and the problem in the unfused circuit.

:sign yeah that: This one does not replace the stock reflector. The base that it does fit is discontinued and no longer available, this reflector is just old stock they are dumping.

different brands of the same weight oil will make a difference also. But the oil that makes one bike the quietest may be the loudest oil in the next bike.

I guess I can kind of see them not wanting to start it if they have a buyer with a down payment. Now if the buyer with the down payment were to call them to say that you are there on his behalf to check out the bike, then they may be more likely to allow you to hear it run.

Unfortunately your only recourse is used. You can check local bike salvage yards, and Ebay are your best shots. It may take a while of diligent looking to find a good one, but they are out there. Some people think theirs are solid gold. Just keep looking.

You were close, it had to do with flying........

Puc follow directions, or worse yet use a map. I think the sky is falling.......