Flyinfool

Well to late for riding this summer since summer officially ended early this morning........ The master cylinder debate was more along the line of the early Ventures have a 1/2 master which is 12.7mm and the newer Ventures have a 14mm master. The 1/2 inch master is not enough. I have not heard of anyone going to a 16mm master. But I might consider it if I were to find one. There is not a lot of slack in the right front brake line, I would be surprised if it reached to the front left caliper. There are a few places that make custom lines, they have an on line form with places for all of the info they need to make your lines. Banjo size, banjo type, line size, line type, distance between banjo centers, rotation angle between banjos.

How you use it makes a big difference in its shelf life after opening. If you are careful to not let the fumes out of the can while using it then it will not have to refill the can with new fumes during storage. When you use it, use it fast and get that lid back on as quick as possible. Try not to tilt the can and spill out the fumes that are in there. There is almost no hope of storing it once you have used very much of it because there is to much air inside allowing the solvents in the glue to evaporate into the air that is in the sealed can drying out the glue. I wonder if filling the can with an inert gas like nitrogen or argon would help.

You obviously have not had enough Rum Balls yet...........

I got close, I have a 1" 11-1/2 NPS tap. Same thread as an NPT but straight instead of tapered. I agree with Kevin that a tap is unlikely to fix your problem. It is likely that when you "tightened the heck out of it" that you stretched the thread and made it to big, or cracked the fitting, a tap will only make it bigger yet. Welding a new fitting on to a cracked fitting will only make a bomb.

@ventureVet All the info of what I used is in the link I posted above. As far as the flashers, The LEDs I used are significantly brighter than the incandescents they replaced, that makes them well worth it. Yes I used load resistors on them so there was only a small power saving. BUT how much time are your turn signals actually illuminated? 2 or 3 minutes per hour of riding, Maybe? Makes their current draw nearly insignificant. It appears that you are an Electrical Engineer. I am a mechanical engineer that messes with electronics as a hobby and am still quite limited in my electronic abilities. I have found that the average person on this site has difficulty hooking up a load resistor without help. Not to imply anyone here is dumb, electronics just ain't everyone's thing.

What you are describing can also be a plugged vent, as you use gas you are building a vacuum in the tank until the pump can no longer overcome that vacuum, at which time the bike acts like it is running out of gas, cuz it is. After sitting for 15-20 minutes the pressure will equalize and the bike will start and run fine again. To test for this, when the bike quits on you, open the gas tank and listen for a hiss of air. the bike will also start and run just fine immediately after opening the gas cap. If opening the gas cap solves the problem it is not a bad pump but a plugged vent. Insects have been known to crawl up into the vent.

Unless of course you get some of those cool covers with the window in it so that you can see into the engine with it running. I think @dingy has them on Tweety.

Only problem is there are brands involved, it can get almost as bad as oil or tires, when ever brands must come into the discussion. Of course I think my preferred brand is best....... Some of the info in this thread did drift a bit off topic where it changed from the RLU to LEDs.

Number ONE rule of thumb with LED lights, ALWAYS match the color of the LED to the color of the lens or desired output. It does not work well to put a white LED behind a red or amber lens. Most of the LEDs brightness is wasted since all of the light energy other than the lens color is absorbed by the lens and never will be seen. I did a thread on LEDs on my bike. Here is the post listing what I used. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?77042-MORE-lights&p=757849#post757849 All of my LEDs came from Super Bright. None of what I used is available "Over the counter" at any local stores. There is a HUGE difference in brands of LEDS as far as quality and brightness. If an LED is bright they will list the lumens because it is a selling point, cheap dim ones usually do not list the light output. It has also been determined that some of the cheap over the counter LEDS will not work for the turn signals because of how they are constructed.

Or just call Barnett and ask them, maybe you have a choice of colors. You might have to specify what color from your supplier.

On one of our trips up north for a weekender, everything was booked due to some local event. The only place we could find was a 3 bedroom cabin on a lake. That don't sound bad. This whole cabin was leaning to one side. there was at least 18 inches in 20 feet of tilt to the floors, but then some of the walls were still plumb, needless to say not a single door could be closed. The toilet was on a pedestal, you had to climb 3 steps before you could sit, brought new meaning to "The Throne". Was advertised as having a kitchen. The kitchen consisted of a sink with brown running water and a Weber grill and a bag of charcoal but no lighter fluid. With the tilt in the floor the beds were interesting. The head of the bed was a good 4 inches below the foot of the bed. Needless to say I moved the pillow to the foot of the bed, I may be a little batty but I can not sleep upside down. This was early fall and it got pretty cool at night, the beds only had a sheet, I ended up pulling the throw rug off the floor to use as a blanket. Then the smoke detector went off in the middle of the night for no apparent reason. It did not survive that trick, there were pieces of smoke detector everywhere by morning. But it was so bad that we laughed hysterically all night and the stories from that weekend st bring us to tears of laughter while reminiscing. So maybe it really was not so bad. At checkout we were informed that it was to be leveled next week to clear the way for a fancy new resort.

I just replaced the dash lights with 12V 194 replacement LEDs even the stock dimmer still works. No need for all the extra parts.

I think he meant RLU hence Reserve Lighting Unit. The purpose of the RLU is to monitor the headlight. If the low beam bulb is on and it burns out it will switch to the high beam, likewise if the high beam is on and it burns out it will switch to the low beam. This is so that when you are cruising down the highway at 70 at night and THE headlight burns out, the world does not go direct to black. The RLU also turns on the white headlight indicator on the dash to make sure you know that it has activated. The reason that you have to bypass it is that it uses amp draw to determine if the headlight burned out, if you install modern lighting that uses less power, the RLU can decide that it is a burned out bulb and switch to the other beam, but then tat will also be lower power so it will switch to the other beam. You will end up switching back and forth very fast and can damage your new modern light. The RLU is completely separate from the jumping of the dash display, that is a separate and redundant method for the bike to tell you that your headlight is out. The lack of illumination on the road method does not always work during the day.

If that pin finds its way to the wrong place it can do a LOT of damage. I wonder if one could use a very strong magnet thru the aluminum to catch and move the pin to where it can be pulled out, either thru the side cover or the drain plug. I would for sure at least install a magnetic drain plug so that if the pin does roll there it will be captured and not able to get to a bad place. I am not familiar enough with the shape of the bottom of the motor to know if it is possible for the forces of acceleration, braking and cornering to move the pin into the transmission or any other gears.

Usually when you have seemingly unrelated issues all crop up at once, it is a bad ground somewhere.

FIREWORKS?????? I like things that go BOOM!!!!

Good job on the quick maneuvers Orlin. Even in a P/U truck a bike can still hurt ya. Are you sure dat correction is watt the officer said?

If he pawned it he will have a receipt with a date. the pawn shop will have a matching receipt with a matching date. On the other hand If it was a pawn shop employee doing the shooting, they could have created a new receipt and burned the original. IF the guy they arrested is innocent, I sure hope he saved that receipt.

Dirty contacts in the HI LO switch? I have to clean mine every spring to keep the headlight working correctly.

14 years is still a young one. My condolences on getting a Chrysler......... At least I have trained my Erika well enough that she went out and bought another Chevy last week.

I think old @cowpuc is afeared of getting us all together in the same place, at the same time. We all know that @Saddelbum is the keeper of the cold air, and I have the technology to mix that cold air just right with some moisture........ And then we have @ragtop69gs to help harass us both when everything turns that lovely shade of white.......

Glad you got out to once again be one with the bike, I'm still looking for my first good ride of the year. Poor bike still has last years gas in it. Forgetting your camera is almost as bad as @cowpuc feeding his memory card to the worms in Dons lawn.

The spark plug boot can be disassembled. Take it apart and clean all of the parts (careful there is a spring in there), they have been known to corrode and block the spark. While you have it apart there is a resistor in there, it should measure around 5,000 ohms. DO NOT sand the ends of the resistor to clean it, sanding it will kill it. when putting it back together, cut a quarter inch off the end of the wire before screwing the cap back on.

The pin just goes in the hole in the bolt, it does not engage anything. My WAG of its purpose is to restrict oil flow out the end of the bolt. If they would have just put a tiny hole in the end of the bolt to get the proper flow rate then it could easily plug up over time, having the pin in there to rattle around keeps the flow restricted and keeps the hole from plugging up. But like I said this is just MY WAG.

Sure sounds like a great time was had by all. Some day you will do dogs on a weekend so some of us working slobs can join in........ Now this would need video with Tippy and all your gear strapped to your back instead of Tweeks back and headed down the road. Very interesting mental image that I have right now..........