Flyinfool

Sure do. Go back up to post #11 I have found a huge difference in brightness and quality of LEDs. If they ain't bragging by telling you the light output, it is because they are embarrassed to bring it up.

It used to.......

I added a few notes in red to your procedure When putting back together, Make sure that the shift linkage is still in the correct orientation, Gravity wants to flip it 180 degrees when you are not looking and will make it not work. The bottom bolt on the middle gear cover has a copper crush washer, The crush washer must go back on that bottom location or you WILL have an oil leak. I always use a new washer just to avoid leaks. Where the 3 stator wires go thru the rubber plug to get thru the side cover is a popular spot for oil leaks. My method of sealing it is to use a lot a brake cleaner to remove all oil from the rubber and the wires. The wires have a cloth covering so it takes some work to get all of the oil out of the cloth. Then gently put about an inch of wire thru the rubber and clean all of the oil out of the cloth coating again. Now coat the cloth coating very well with black RTV and pull the wires bock to their original positions. This will pull the RTV into the rubber for a good seal that oil can not wick thru. coat all mating edges and around the wires of that rubber seal with black RTV while assembling.

How bad were you lugging the engine? This engine likes to cruise at around 4,000 rpm. This means that around town I rarely get past 2nd gear. Don't be afraid to play with the red line, just hang on tight as you get there. And start with a half can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas. Take it for a ride like ya stole it for 20 to 30 miles, then let it sit over night, do this a few days in a row until you use up the whole tank of gas, clears up most restrictions in the carbs that are not a full blockage. Only disassemble and mechanical cleaning will clear a fully blocked carb passage. If it got better but is not quite there, repeat above procedure with a full can of Seafoam. I use just a splash (about and ounce or so) of Seafoam in every tank just to help things out with the newer crap gas we have to use.

Works fine here on my 13 year old laptop, with XP Pro, SP2 an Firefox. Yes I have an old bike and an old puter, and just like Ventures, they are both still work great and are better than the newer stuff.

Glad to heat that your trim ring is solved. I know it was really bothering you. But now you are playing with electricity??????? Maybe you just need someone to give you back the fuses.........

The power draw of the blinkers is not that big of a deal. First while operating, the bulb is only lit 50% of the time. A typical stoplight is about 1 minute, a really, really long one might get up to 2 minutes, so you are looking at the blinker bulbs being on for a max of one minute and only on very rare occasions. There will only be one side of the bike being lit at any one time. For the amount of power that may get pulled from the battery, the charging system will replace that in a lot less time than it took to drain it once you get going. the charging system may even be back to charging during the off cycle of the flashers. If you have done LED turn signals you probably had also done other LEDs for running and brake lights, That may well save enough power that you will still be charging just fine while idling with the signal on. I know that since I went all LED/HID with load resistors on turn signals, that even idling with the brake and turn signal on the voltage stays solid at 14.0. I also have never heard of anyone killing a battery by having the stock incandescent bulbs and running the turn signals at a light.

couple possibilities. Since wiggling things around made it better, AND the headlight wire is getting hot. I would check that wire real close for a bad or corroded connection between the wire and the terminal. Is your HID being powered thru the bikes headlight circuit? The HID draws a lot of current to get it started and then drops off to rated power once the bulb is lit. This initial surge of power may be what is heating things up quick. my HID is wired direct to the battery and has a built in relay that is turned on by the bikes headlight circuit. So there is very little power going thru the bikes wiring.

Be very careful with only 1 screw in the cover, just one drop of fluid leaking out and getting on the fairing will destroy the fairing. To get the broken drill tip out, use a center punch gently to break it up so you can pick out the pieces.

I would not make that assumption. There are a lot of things that could make it not run. If I were doing the conversion and the FI did not work, I would put the carbs back on before I scraped it.

I hate intermittent problems. It is so hard to fix something that aint broke. Check the connectors in the areas that you disturbed, clean them whether they look dirty or not, an invisible film of oxidation is enough for a poor contact. Problems that fix themselves while working on it are usually a bad connection.

@f4customs is located near Cleveland OH, I will contact him to see if it will be easier for you to get it direct to him vs sending to me in WI and then me sending it back to Cleveland.

Yup. There is an internal connection from the battery side heavy wire to the coil, so the circuits on the bike are switching the ground side of the circuit.

I believe that will do the trick. How did the vent hole turn out? Was it in the right location? That would only make it easier for F4 to add the wing vent.

I no longer have an OEM. I changed my OEM out to a Slipstream a few years ago cuz F4 did not make a 1st gen. I held on to the old one for a few years hoping F4 would change their mind, until a VRO member had one a lot worse than my old one so I gave away my old one I was saving. Now a few more years down the road F4 is looking for an OEM 1st gen shield to get dimensions off of.

At least now you know that the starter itself is good along with the ground side of the circuit. This eliminates a bunch of stuff to check. Again, put bike on center stand, double check it is in neutral. There is a small blue/white wire attached to the solenoid, connect a jumper from that terminal of the solenoid to battery negative. The solenoid should click and the bike should crank. You do not need to have the ignition on for this test, unless you actually need or want the bike to start.

Just like the title says, I am looking for a used and abused 1st gen, MKII if it makes a difference, windshield. It does not have to be pretty at all. As long as the mounting area, and most of the outside shape is there. Major scratches or cloudiness from chemicals don't matter. I will be sending it to Don at F4 windshields so that he can use it as a pattern to be able to make F4 windshields for the 1st gens. After talking to Don this morning he said that if he had a pattern to design something, he would make the shields. He said that he would most likely not stock them but would make them on an as needed basis with about a 2 week lead time. I can deal with that. I had my original stored away for a couple of years while trying to talk Don into doing the 1st gens. Just after I finally gave it away to someone that needed one, Don decided to go ahead and look into the 1st gen shields.:bang head:

An impact driver will often get out that buggered screw. Once you drill off the head of the MC screw, lift the cover off and their will be enough screw sticking out that usually you can turn out the remaining screw just with your fingers. Based on the war stories that I have read, you are often better off replacing the slave with new rather than rebuild. The rebuild kit is not that much less than a new one, and from what I have read on this site has about a 50% success rate on rebuilds where the bore was not so pitted as to not be rebuildable.

It's got to be a young fit person that built that. Most of us old farts can not sit with our hands out past our feet and survive for long. I think the inside of your right leg will stay warm no matter what the temps are. You can even get a back rub while riding without the whining about going to fast......

The yellow wire for the Headlight indicator on the dash can also be reappropriated to use as an indicator for any other electrical stuff on the bike. I have my headlight setup an a switch so that it does not turn off and on when I hit the starter. Saves wear and tear on the headlights starter circuit, I have a HID headlight. I put a bright red LED behind the white headlight lens wired so that it is on if the headlight is off, in the daytime I was occasionally forgetting to turn on the headlight after starting.

Dents and scratches add character. All of my stuff never seems to run just right till after the first dent or scratch.

I know he has lost most if not all of his....... Oh wait, never mind.......

Can not tell from the pic if the engine was painted gold or if that is just a good case of the clear finish yellowing. There are a few spots on my 88 that have yellowed to near that color, but certainly not near that even looking. My guess is someone painted it.

Yes the start switch does turn off the headlight while starting. The solenoid is on the left side of the battery. Quick test is to hook up a digital voltmeter across the battery. A charged battery will read 12.6 volts. While cranking the voltage should stay above 10 volts. To test the starter. Put the bike on the center stand. Double check to be sure it is in neutral. Get your jumper cables and use one cable to connect from battery Positive to the stud on the starter motor that has the heavy wire attached. connect the other cable to battery negative and the starter case. It should crank the engine. If it does not you have a bad starter. If the starter does crank then you have an electrical problem that we can work through. There are not a lot of things can go wrong in the starter circuit.

What is this moing machine you speak of. don't need moing.