Flyinfool

I would love be there when you slam on the brakes, HARD. Something I just cant do in a plank. Screaming yes, "religious references" not, Wooo Hooo and yeeeeee Haaaaaa, you betchya.

THANK you Dan for not posting pics of that,,,,,,,,

The @Carbon_One brace will prevent that bending back. For next time?

Oopie......

I guess you would have to call FedEX and ask. You may have to at least wrap it in bubble wrap or something. OR, its only a couple hundred miles, might be a nice time of year for a road trip...........

Sounds more like a selective failure to load the page........

It is common for a stock starting system to feel like it is loading the battery down. The 2 brush starter is weak, its ground path is very poor, and all of the big wires on the bike are too small for the current needed. A 4 brush starter will fix the weak starter issue and the bad ground path issue, or there is a simple ground path mod for the 2 brush starter that @dingy came up with. Upgrading all of the big wires to #4 welding cables will fix the undersized wire issue. That did sound rather counter intuitive that you need oil of a grip surface. But then so does the clutch need to be in oil to grip properly. The grip surface is part of the 72 tooth gear behind the flywheel, the only way to see it is to remove the flywheel. These bikes do not have a Bendix in them at all. The gears on the starter are always engaged with the mating gear, there is a weak one way bearing in the flywheel that grabs the 72 tooth gear for cranking and then allows the connection to slip as the engine starts. The stock setup has only 3 rollers to provide that grip, it is common for the mounting screws to come loose, the mounting ring to crack and the 3 rollers to leave marks (Brinell marks) in the mating surface of the 72 tooth gear. once you get a bunch of Brinell marks in that mating surface, it will no longer work correctly. If all of the oil has drained off of all of these parts due to being parked for years, it is possible that it is not working correctly. Member @Dano makes a replacement with an 18 roller one way bearing that is pretty much bullet proof. ps Pulling the flywheel for the first time is always fun. There of some great stories around of the experiences.

I like it. You need to hide more lights to light her up at night.

Or maybe it was trailered up and is now for local running around. OR the rider really does have an iron butt.

At least it was a 2nd gen, they only go halfway down. Even though it was a gentle drop, check the front crash bars to be sure they did not bend, There is a brace for them that will help a lot.

I have not heard of anyone successfully repairing a stock ignition box. Replacing the diodes and capacitors as preventative maintenance yes, but repair a dead one no. Before you start to throw money at it, a few things to check. How old are the plugs? These do not last real long. Even plugs that look good can still be bad. The plug caps can be disassembled and there is a resistor element that likes to corrode and make a bad connection. Careful of the spring when you disassemble. Check the connectors on the ignition box to be sure they are corrosion free, check the connectors to the coils for cleanliness. Check to be sure you are getting spark to all cylinders at all speeds. If all of that is good then it may be time to look at a new box.

Did you pull the flywheel to check out the start clutch? It is common for the ring that holds it all together to have cracks in it. look close at the surface of the start gear that the rollers in the flywheel run on, if there are any lines in that surface it is toast. I never heard of a starter clutch that squealed, It usually sounds like there is a small person stuck inside of the engine with a hammer trying to get out. Is this a bike that has not run in a long while? If so it could be possible that the oil has drained off the grip surface causing it to slip.

Less mess but if the propane builds up, it can get real interesting real fast.

Getting one to Don is in process. It will be a few days for it to get there.

You need to figure out the gear ratio of the speedo cable drive off the front wheel. Then set up something to trip a reed switch at the same speed as the speedo cable. This signal will work the tune signal canceling and the cruise. Or you could even make up something that will work off of the speedo cable.

There are a lot of places that can leak around there. Start with the air box, is it there? Is there an air filter in it? Has the air box been modified in any way? Is the breather hose connected to the air box and the engine? While the air box is open start the bike and make sure all 4 sliders are doing the same dance. Look at the carb manifolds for any obvious cracking of the rubber. Cracks do not necessarily indicate a leak since there is metal inside of there. But you can then test further to see if the visible cracks are leaks. Check the block offs on the fittings for doing a carb sync, it is common for those to crack with age. Look for missing or disconnected vacuum lines. When using the carb cleaner to track the leak, use the pin point straw and smaller bursts of cleaner to try to localize the leak.

The wires you need to get to are right there and easy under the seat. You could just hook directly to the bikes wires, BUT I would strongly recommend that you use some kind of an isolator so that the load of the trailers lights in not on the bikes wiring and switches but is coming direct from the battery. If it does not already have it, I would look at upgrading the trailer to LED to save electrical load on the bike.

If you are cruising around at 2K rpm you are lugging the engine. It don't like to run that slow. At parking lot speed I will be in the friction zone on the clutch to relieve some of the gear mesh sounds from the gear lash banging back and forth. These engines like to cruise around 4K rpm. You can drop to 3K around town in 1st or 2nd gear, but any less and you are lugging the engine and will hear it. This ain't a Hardly and it don't like to be treated like one.

Whether it is the LS, the LT, or the LTZ has a big impact on the price, at least it does off the showroom floor. We almost bought a new 2015 Equinox 2 weeks ago, but ended up getting the Trax instead. Trax is a lot smaller than the Equinox.

The ping thing is fine, but how fast is fast? How slow is noticeably slow? I don't know that my eyes are capable of seeing the difference between 20 and 40 milliseconds

Bubber Weren't you one of those that kept saying "What happens at PIP stays at PIP".......? Send your wife to me, I'll swear that I never saw you the whole weekend, and it would be true, so you must have been at PIP cuz you were not by me.

Now to figure out where that pesky washer goes.......

To replace Silver???? What option package?

Unless you already had cut out the stator connector and soldered the wires, you could have just unplugged it to take the cover to the bench.

Also a JIS screwdriver will properly fit a Phillips head screw. It's just a Phillips driver will not fit a JIS screw.