Flyinfool

While shopping for my last truck I took a 8.1 out for a test drive, THAT was a lot of FUN, but I still ended up getting the 350. From what I have read the 8.1 got better MPG as a daily driver than the 6.0.

Or better yet video.

Wooo Hooooo Hope all is going well and here's to a long happy marriage.

He still could for the next great deal that pops up. This is the season for the best deals on bikes.

I thought it was the drive shaft housing that was the limiting factor on tire width. IIRC the drive shaft is a lot smaller dia than the tube it runs in. I wonder it there is room to scoop out a bit of the housing and weld in a patch to get some more clearance, and still maintain the structural integrity????????

And I just got home from a beautiful week up nort........ Had to leave a lot of stuff up there to make room in the truck........

Start with the easy stuff. Does the headlight go out completely when you press the starter button? It should. Did you bump the kill switch and turn it to off, Happens pretty often? Is the bike in neutral? Try pulling in the clutch to see if that will let it crank. Hook a volt meter across the battery, what is the voltage before you press the start button and what is the voltage while the button is pressed? Charge the battery again to see if it was just to low to turn the engine over, you may need to take it in to get load tested to be sure it is good. If everything is going dim, and the motor does not turn over, pull all of the spark plugs and turn it over to be sure you do not have a hydro lock situation. Careful, if you have a cylinder full of liquid it will come out fast and soak everything.

Vee shall see vat ve shall see........

This is about as close as I ever got to road rage http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?72811-She-tried-to-get-me

You have this posted in the 2nd gen section, might get a few more views in the 1st gen section. Your 89 is a 1st Gen, Mark II. Ask a moderator to move it for you.

1. If you take the cover off with the bike on the center stand you will get some oil out but not a lot, just a few ounces. The bottom bolt for the middle gear cover is the drain hole for draining the oil out of the transmission, that is why it has the copper crush washer on it. As long as you did not put a gasket sealer on, the gasket should still be reusable. 2. look in the hole and at the tube for corrosion and/or pitting. If your RTV smalls like salad dressing it contains an acid that will eat metal and electronics. I use the black Permatex Ultra Black as it is acid free and safe around electronics. I wrote a procedure on getting the wires sealed up, I will have to go looking for it. edit; Found it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?71752-new-problem-with-bike&p=700696#post700696

Whats wrong with a milk crate? I had one on my Honda 250, my Yamy 650, and my KZ750, I had the 6 gallon size for all, and I thought it was great. Especially for runs to the grocery store. I even set the bottom of my golf clubs with cart in the crate and strapped them to the back of the sissy bar standing straight up. Man am I glad that digital pics and cell phones with cameras did not exist back in them thar days gone by.

1. The oil leak might be from near the top where the stator wires exit the cover. That is a very common leak point. If it is leaking at the bottom, you probably missed a little cleaning up of the old gasket or gouged one of the gasket surfaces while cleaning. 2. When you had that out did you clean the hole? There is often a lot of corrosion in there that makes it hard to seal. If the surfaces are pitted an o-ring alone will not seal against a pitted surface. You will either have to smooth it out or cheat with some sealant. It also looks like you have the tube tilted and not aligned with the bore.

Glad it all worked out well. As mentioned above, these bikes can be shifted without using the clutch if you need to. Hmmmmmmm sounds like another item to be added to the "normal" maintenance. There are sight glasses on the reservoirs for the clutch and front brake. It takes all of about 2 seconds to visually see if the fluid is at the correct level each and every time you ride. I even glance at those once in a while while riding. If the fluid was empty, that means you have a leak, It will not be as simple as fill it up and bleed it. Be careful, the brake fluid the the clutch uses will destroy any paint or plastic it touches. Cover everything while working on this and then when done immediately hose the bike off good with the garden hose to remove any brake fluid that might of got somewhere you did not notice.

From the pics I do not see anything wrong. As long as you are in there, turn the 72 tooth gear by hand it should only turn one way. When you put the cover back on, you MUST have a gasket or the gears WILL bind.

Keep a positive outlook, 6 months ago my medical procedure did not exist. They come up with new stuff all the time.

And ruin your chance to play with your new tractor with the blower attachment?

Dirty contacts in clutch switch will allow a start in gear and clutch not pulled. As for the starter spinning free when it used to work. Only thing I can think of is something broke in the starter gear train.

Man I know that feeling. I just got in my first rides of the year after my heart issues and am up to a whopping 200 miles so far in the last 2 weeks.

At least you did not discover the linked brakes on gravel or sand........ I would start by doing a good flush of all the brake fluid and the clutch. Old fluid causes many evils on this bike. Once flushed see what yo have for brakes. There is a bit more to delinking the 83-85, the front master is a 1/2 inch bore, (12.7mm) the later Ventures have a 14mm bore, this is better for running 2 calipers.

Did you try switching coils between a good and bad cyl to see if the problem moves with the coil.

I would do all of the tear down before buying anything, that way if it is toast inside, all you have invested is time. Are you going to attempt the repair with the engine still in the frame? GOOD Luck!!!

Sure sounds like your havin some fun.......

Are you running Symantec software like Norton antivirus or Norton internet security? The clue is in the name of the plugin cosymantecnisbfw. It is a known Symantec bug.

The company I got my HID from is no longer around. I liked them and bought 7 HIDs for my various vehicles. I don't know who makes good ones right now. If you go HID you want the Bi-Xenon so that you have bright light on both HI and Lo beam. Mine is focused great on both. The HID is 35 watts where the stock headlight is 55/60 watts. So that is a power savings for the bike while getting a LOT more light. A high ammeter is not a big positive, that is a bad thing.