Flyinfool

Well I had to buy gas again today. I got 300 miles in so far this year.........HEY gotta start somewhere.

I went to a local locksmith that had blanks. They are not pretty genuine Yamaha with the fancy logo, but functional.

Well maybe with 3/4 of a ton of hot dogs in the back. Careful Dan, that 8.1 and the towing gears might just PO the Saab or BS......It can get out of its own way.

AND while you are in there, if you have the plastic impeller, put in the metal one.

Or you can attack it from the other end. I do not have a lift. I put the bike on the center stand. Use a ratchet strap or even my belt to lock the center stand down. Put something heavy in the trunk to hold front wheel off ground. Remove front wheel. Lower forks onto a piece of wood to protect them. Now the rear end is sticking way up in the air for easy rear wheel removal. Reverse for assembly. There was/is a write up on this sight somewhere with this method as part of servicing the drive shaft (I think). I have used it several times now.

Maybe remove the ignition switch and with a good whack upside down on a piece of wood the key will move far enough to get a hold of it. I keep a spare key hidden on the bike for if/when I lose my key ring while away from home. Just don't hide it where you need the key to get to it..... I also replace the tie wrap that holds the spare key in place every spring with a new black tie.

While shopping for my last truck I took a 8.1 out for a test drive, THAT was a lot of FUN, but I still ended up getting the 350. From what I have read the 8.1 got better MPG as a daily driver than the 6.0.

Or better yet video.

Wooo Hooooo Hope all is going well and here's to a long happy marriage.

He still could for the next great deal that pops up. This is the season for the best deals on bikes.

I thought it was the drive shaft housing that was the limiting factor on tire width. IIRC the drive shaft is a lot smaller dia than the tube it runs in. I wonder it there is room to scoop out a bit of the housing and weld in a patch to get some more clearance, and still maintain the structural integrity????????

And I just got home from a beautiful week up nort........ Had to leave a lot of stuff up there to make room in the truck........

Start with the easy stuff. Does the headlight go out completely when you press the starter button? It should. Did you bump the kill switch and turn it to off, Happens pretty often? Is the bike in neutral? Try pulling in the clutch to see if that will let it crank. Hook a volt meter across the battery, what is the voltage before you press the start button and what is the voltage while the button is pressed? Charge the battery again to see if it was just to low to turn the engine over, you may need to take it in to get load tested to be sure it is good. If everything is going dim, and the motor does not turn over, pull all of the spark plugs and turn it over to be sure you do not have a hydro lock situation. Careful, if you have a cylinder full of liquid it will come out fast and soak everything.

Vee shall see vat ve shall see........

This is about as close as I ever got to road rage http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?72811-She-tried-to-get-me

You have this posted in the 2nd gen section, might get a few more views in the 1st gen section. Your 89 is a 1st Gen, Mark II. Ask a moderator to move it for you.

1. If you take the cover off with the bike on the center stand you will get some oil out but not a lot, just a few ounces. The bottom bolt for the middle gear cover is the drain hole for draining the oil out of the transmission, that is why it has the copper crush washer on it. As long as you did not put a gasket sealer on, the gasket should still be reusable. 2. look in the hole and at the tube for corrosion and/or pitting. If your RTV smalls like salad dressing it contains an acid that will eat metal and electronics. I use the black Permatex Ultra Black as it is acid free and safe around electronics. I wrote a procedure on getting the wires sealed up, I will have to go looking for it. edit; Found it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?71752-new-problem-with-bike&p=700696#post700696

Whats wrong with a milk crate? I had one on my Honda 250, my Yamy 650, and my KZ750, I had the 6 gallon size for all, and I thought it was great. Especially for runs to the grocery store. I even set the bottom of my golf clubs with cart in the crate and strapped them to the back of the sissy bar standing straight up. Man am I glad that digital pics and cell phones with cameras did not exist back in them thar days gone by.

1. The oil leak might be from near the top where the stator wires exit the cover. That is a very common leak point. If it is leaking at the bottom, you probably missed a little cleaning up of the old gasket or gouged one of the gasket surfaces while cleaning. 2. When you had that out did you clean the hole? There is often a lot of corrosion in there that makes it hard to seal. If the surfaces are pitted an o-ring alone will not seal against a pitted surface. You will either have to smooth it out or cheat with some sealant. It also looks like you have the tube tilted and not aligned with the bore.

Glad it all worked out well. As mentioned above, these bikes can be shifted without using the clutch if you need to. Hmmmmmmm sounds like another item to be added to the "normal" maintenance. There are sight glasses on the reservoirs for the clutch and front brake. It takes all of about 2 seconds to visually see if the fluid is at the correct level each and every time you ride. I even glance at those once in a while while riding. If the fluid was empty, that means you have a leak, It will not be as simple as fill it up and bleed it. Be careful, the brake fluid the the clutch uses will destroy any paint or plastic it touches. Cover everything while working on this and then when done immediately hose the bike off good with the garden hose to remove any brake fluid that might of got somewhere you did not notice.

From the pics I do not see anything wrong. As long as you are in there, turn the 72 tooth gear by hand it should only turn one way. When you put the cover back on, you MUST have a gasket or the gears WILL bind.

Keep a positive outlook, 6 months ago my medical procedure did not exist. They come up with new stuff all the time.

And ruin your chance to play with your new tractor with the blower attachment?

Dirty contacts in clutch switch will allow a start in gear and clutch not pulled. As for the starter spinning free when it used to work. Only thing I can think of is something broke in the starter gear train.

Man I know that feeling. I just got in my first rides of the year after my heart issues and am up to a whopping 200 miles so far in the last 2 weeks.