Flyinfool

OK it always seems that there is some one that will know something or at least have some good ideas. Here is my situation. The cable price just took a dramatic price jump and has exceeded my wallet tolerance. So I got an omnidirectional antenna since I am only about 15 miles from the transmitters. Overall the antenna works great. The problem is, the transmitters are all almost due north of me. Directly across the street to the north is a 5 story high brick apartment building. The picture quality is still flawless. Now the fun part. I live very close to an international airport with a lot of airliner traffic. The airliners go by about 2 city blocks to the south of me and are at less than 1000 feet AGL on final for the favorite runway. The planes go by about every 2 - 3 minutes. With each plane that goes by It wipes out my TV picture and sound due to loss of signal. I think that what is happening is that the broadcast signal is bouncing off the side of the airplanes and hitting my antenna out of phase with the broadcast signal so neither one can get through. I bought and tried a directional antenna and that helped a little. I get the signal interruption for a short time and then it clears when the plane is exactly off the back of the antenna and then goes out again as the plane continues on by. Would it help to put up a wall of aluminum foil on the back side of the antenna to try to block the reflected signal? DO I need to ground it? Would I be better off spending the big bucks on a bigger more directional antenna? Any other ideas form those that understand how radio waves work????

Naaa Even if you include the truck (its a Ford) and trailer it is still to high. I am still betting on he really does not want to sell it.

With the pics being on the trailer maybe the boss said "NO WAY!" as he pulled into the driveway with it. So this add was; "See honey, I am trying to sell it" "But in the mean time I will have to keep riding it to keep the battery charged and the gas fresh."

@cowpuc I would love to have you be able to pop in here while you are commuting back and forth to Cali. If I knew when you were coming, I might even be able to arrange some real interesting stuff at the airfield. I have been under a lot of stress lately with stuff going on around here, I have found that working on "things" in the basement has been very therapeutic for me. Maybe I can just leave it the stealth black so I can sneak up on you with a batch of 60° SNOW!!!

Well this ended up on hold for a while again with more health junk. But I am back at it again. The construction phase is pretty much done, and I just splashed on the first coat of primer. The first coat is just a light dusting of black primer. al other coats of primer will be bright white. The black is just so I can tell when almost all of the white primer has been sanded off. This is an aircraft where weight matters, so each coat of the white has to be sanded off almost entirely just leaving what is needed to fill imperfections. Right now it really looks like a stealth missile in all flat black primer. It is nearly invisible in the pics I tried to take. I still have not decided on a paint scheme other than it will be very bright colors for visibility.

Oh Man....... Now I have to go out and get the 3D printer that I have wanted for a long time now.

Now you need to find another Yerf Dog so that you can chase the grandson around the yard. Comeon now, you know you wanna.......

The relay is nothing special. the standard 30 or 40 amp accessory relay at any auto parts store will be perfect.

Just as long as the aliens do not figure out that Puc can quickly be bought with just a bit of Banana Nut Ice Cream.

Yup you are all still stuck with me. My riding days are over, I may get a small convertible sports car to keep some wind in my hair. Right now between job and health issues I don't get on here as much as I would like to or used to, but still pop in unexpectedly to cause trouble.

It is getting close to that time of year when I am in my glory. @cowpuc And don't forget the.......

Before you trust your life to that, please at least put a bolt thru each corner.

OK, have to start with the easy silly questions. Is the kill switch in the run position? Is the Neutral light on? Will it crank if you pull in the clutch? The blue white wire is supposed to be always hot. It is connected direct to the battery inside of the solenoid. Grounding the wire is what tells the solenoid to close and turn over the engine. If that wire is hot then your issue is in one of the switches or wires in the starter system.

I don't know if I would trust JB Weld to hold 1000 lbs over my head. If a joint popped off it would get real ugly real fast. It is not just the weight of the bike on those joints. it is also any forces that you are applying to a wrench. Then the legs are a foot long lever to put even more stress on the joints.

Call the place with one for a 22LR and see if they can check to see if it is the same P/N as the one for your 22MAG.

Very glad that you finally got to throw a leg over her and let her rip. That 36 year old bike will still surprise a lot of modern bikes. She loves loud V twins as a snack. You will also find that she is very capable of lifting the front wheel off the ground, even with all her weight and the rider leaning forward, so be ready for that surprise. There should be 4 wires into the clutch switch, 2 of them are to disengage the cruise control and the other 2 are part of a safety circuit that will not let you crank the engine if the bike is not in neutral unless the clutch is pulled in. If you do not have cruise on your bike then you will only have the other 2 wires.

Sure you can do this. As mentioned it is very time consuming and that makes it seam hard to do. But it is a very straight forward job. It is the time consuming part that makes it expensive at a stealer, and people equate expensive with hard to do. If you contact @skydoc_17 he has a kit with assorted shims and the special tool you will need as a free loaner if you buy the gasket set from him, He also is a wealth of knowledge on these bikes and has reasonable prices.

Is the tube you need missing or just damaged / worn? If you have the tube, even a bad or ugly one, it might be repairable or might not be real hard to reverse engineer to remake a new one.

Look at your screen on the dash, if the side stand icon is lit up then you have to do something with the switch. If it is not lit then some one already bypassed it and your issue lies elsewhere. There are 3 wires that go to the side stand switch, to bypass the switch you connect all 3 wires together and it will always show as side stand up. It is NOT recommended to do this other than trouble shooting or an emergency patch to get you home.

The leak on that elbow is from the bike having been laid down on the right side. The engine guard mounting point will flex back far enough to puncture the elbow. I ground the corner off of my engine guard to give more clearance and sprayed some "Chrome" paint on the edge to prevent rust. For the elbow I scuffed it up real good and repaired the hole with JB Weld and then painted it to about the right color. IF you are lucky the ones on those parts bikes will not have the same hole in them.

It is actually pretty common for the top of the T-stat housing to warp. Some have made up a brace out of steel to help spread the load. On mine I just milled the housing flat and put it back together with a new o-ring and it never did leak again. Sounds like such a deal on the 2 parts bikes, I would beat feet over there before he changes his mind.

Oh the game warden stories.......... I have had a few real life encounters with the wardens. I have still never been written up for anything. But they keep trying. Don't take me wrong, most wardens are really great people.

Don't forget to also clean the other end of the battery wires, every wire has 2 ends. There is also a smaller ground wire connected to the battery, check that wire also. and the connector it goes thru just in front of the battery on the right side.

I would start by figuring out how to take the Hi/Lo switch apart and clean the contacts. then using the ohm meter check from the switch contact to the green wire at the bulb, should be near zero ohms. if it is infinity, the check at the blue connector. by using the ohm meter you can narrow the foult down till you find it. I have seen a bad crimp at a connector cause issues. I have had fuses that looked good but tested as bad. Don't just go by what looks to be an intact element, check it with a meter or a test light.

What bike do you have? My 88 the cruise worked fine in all gears except neutral. In town I used it in 2nd a lot.