Flyinfool

Thanks, Now I have to try that, I wonder how fast 10 coils will get it........... Hey, Hold my beer and watch this........

The low beam cut off looks the same as the stock bulb. The bulb mounts just like stock into the housing. If you get the 35W HID you will have a LOT more light and the total draw with the spotlights will only be 4W more than stock. That will be no problem for the electrical system to handle.

Hey, Puc and I met at Dons MD, No one that made it there even got hurt to bad from the fall out.

I have zero clouding from my HID. As for the stator handling it, it depends on the total draw of all of your electrical accesories.

This one draws 50W This one draws 80W There are others that draw as little as 13W bu the light output is also only around that of the stock halogen. The 2 above are rated at a lot more light than the stock halogen. So it still takes more input to get more output. Even with the HID, you can now get them in 35W or 50W, the 50W is a lot brighter than the35W, but the 35W (50W did not exist 5 years ago) that I have is magnitudes brighter than the stock halogen or a Silver star. When comparing light output, watts are meaningless, there is no direct correlation between watts and brightness, especially when comparing different technologies. The watts are all that matters to your bikes electrical system. For light output you need to compare lumens or candlepower or ccm or any measurement of light output. It still gets difficult to compare one rated in candlepower to one rated in lumens to one rated in ccm.

I am not certain on an 84 as the layout is a bit different than on my 88. BUt I believe you have a standard H4 bulb so if you get a BiXenon H4 bulb it will mount correctly but needs slightly more room on the back side, that is the part I am not sure of on your 84. Looking thru the post that I did will give you more info as to some of the things I ran into with mine. You will have to find a place to mount the ballast and a relay, and do some wiring, but there is plenty of room for that and it is not complicated unless you want it to be. Bottom line is that the light is so much better that I would do it again in a heartbeat. If this system dies I will get another HID. I have yet to see a side by side comparison between a modern high output LED headlight conversion and a HID conversion. My HID is 35W and blows away the stock 55/65W bulb. The better LED conversions are in the 80 W range.

Unfortunately it is not uncommon for both to go together. With all of the electrical stuff I have added to my bike, I keep a spare stator and RR and gasket set on the shelf ready to go.

I have had my HID in for 5 years now and it is still the original one I installed. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?45603-Just-got-my-new-HID-headlight IF you go with the hi power halogen light you will need to get a ceramic connector and deal with the switches and wires not being designed to handle that much current. You also have to watch closely the LED headlights as some of them draw well above the 55/65W of the stock bulb and will tax the electrical system on the bike. As to whether your charging system can keep up, that depends on just how much power all the other stuff you added draws.

What kind of meter did you test with? Some of the cheaper meters will read high when trying to read very small ohm values because they do not compensate for the resistance of the test leads. touch your test leads together, if the meter does not show 0 ohms, then you need to subtract the reading from what you measured. The better test is that you have infinite ohms from any lead to ground, and then measure the voltage output with the bike running and the regulator disconnected.

Ford must have had another "better idea"

Did you ever find what the real problem was? Replacing everything is not always a good option if you don't happen to have a complete system laying around.

If it was just simply getting old it would not be so bad, that happens gradually and gives you time to absorb it and get used to it. I went from spring chicken to old man literally in just a few seconds. I am NOT adjusting well.......

My tree is still in the woods, alive and happy. With my upcoming mobility issues we will not have decorations in or on the house this year.

I have been known to glue the impeller back on the shaft to get by until the new parts arrive AND I have time to install them. Besides I had to get it running, she did not do my underwear first.......

Now that sounds like a challenge to me....... :snow2: :snow2: I so LOVE a good challenge....... :snow: :snow: :snow: BURY THE DEER.....

What to do with my time........... I can come on here more to cause trouble........ I don't know if I can do building as I usually stand for that, Most of the basement will be inaccessible to me while on crutches. Building also takes surplus $$$, the Dr's and their billing departments have been making sure I have none of that. I can dream up and implement new ways to get snow over the pond to Cowpuc. That is always fun. I will still do my M&E in March even if I am still gimpy. I have started to prep my office space at work to be more handicap friendly. I may be gimping back to work Jan 4th.

It all started last summer when I thought I sprained my ankle. I do that a lot so I thought no big deal. A month later and it was still hurting so while at the doc for something else I asked about it. They took an xray and said I broke my Tibia. That part healed up just fine but it was still bothering me. I went to the doc again and they took more xrays and confirmed that the bone healed perfectly and said there was nothing wrong. I finally got to a foot specialist and she did an MRI and said that all the tendons and ligaments in my ankle are FUBAR and stretched out beyond the point that they can recover, and there is chunk of something floating around in there that can not be identified from either the Xray or MRI, it is visible they just can not figure out what it is or where it came from. They think it may be a piece of bone or cartilage that I broke off in one of my previously "sprained" ankles and it has just been floating around causing mayhem since. So in a couple of weeks they will go in and find that chunk of stuff, remove it and see what it is/was. while they are in there they will also cut loose all of the stretched tendons and ligaments, shorten them and then reattach them to the bones, presumably in the right places. So I will be on crutches for 4-6 weeks followed by a walking boot for another 4-6 weeks and then start 3 months of rehab. They said that my foot will never get back to 100%, 80% is the best I can hope for. but right now it is at about 20%. I can walk on a smooth level surface as is, any unevenness or carrying any thing more than just my weight (which is a lot after a year of being a couch potato) and it will just buckle out from under me. It is like my leg just slides off the side of my foot. It has made me fall down a few times already.

All the time....... She did get stuck with the Flyinfool......

I went another 2 outa 3 falls with the docs yesterday, and I lost, again. It looks like I will not be able to walk for most, possibly all of the winter and into spring. So my misfortune may turn into Cowpucs lucky day. I am not sure just how I will get out to the Snow Machine for proper operation. Maybe I can rig it up with Radio Control so that I can operate it from the comfort of my recliner........ I do have some experience with remote controlling stuff. But even if I set it up for remote control it may be more difficult to aim properly, who knows where it might end up getting pointed at. So if you are anywhere on the same continent as ole Puc, I apologize ahead of time for the misfires. I am sure there will be a learning curve. Especially now that I have added a new flux capacitor to speed up the snowper charger and get even higher manifold pressures. We are getting close to reaching a kilobar in manifold pressure. But then I have to worry about @cowpuc and his lop eared cronies trying to come up with a way to jam my radio signals.... I will have to set it up so that a loss of signal causes everything to go to full power. Just have be sure my batteries do not run down.

And this is why I can still laugh at all of her choices........ I think I got the better end of the deal......

Cracks are never good and will usually grow over time. Even if you were to try to weld it, you would still want to stop drill it before welding. With that said, I would not try to weld the sleeve. If the sleeve got hit hard enough to crack it, it is probably not round anymore either. The stress in the metal could be way beyond the visible crack. If that sleeve were to come apart at speed it could destroy the engine and lock the rear wheel.

No I aint......... YET!!!

A few gotchas to watch out for. LED no longer means low power. Many of the newer bulbs to replace headlight and driving lights the LED version will actually draw more power than the incandescents they are replacing. As far as replacing the non road illuminating bulbs with LED, Most are lower power than the incandescents they are replacing. A few of the LEDs are even brighter than the bulbs they replace AND still draw less power. But these good ones are not inexpensive. With most of the LED replacements out there you will not be real happy with the result, this is one of the places that it is very worth it to by quality the first time. It has also been discovered that some of the cheap LED bulbs will not work on a first gen turn signals without adding some extra diodes in line, I do not know if there is a similar issue with the 2nd gens.

I had low potassium for a while, doc gave me pills for it. I asked if I could eat a couple of bananas every day instead. Doc said that I would have to eat at least 100 bananas per day to get what the pill had.

The best way to tell is to have an actual digital voltmeter installed. If the voltage at cruising speed starts to drop as you turn things on, then you have passed the limit. The way the charging system is set up on these bikes, an overload will only cause a voltage drop which will result in a discharged battery. If you notice a voltage drop, just turn something off for a while to charge the battery back up. You can buy 35W bulbs to fit those new lights to help lower the draw. Changing all the lights on the bike to LED will also help lower the demand.