Flyinfool

The 6601D is the controller for the solar cell. Leave that alone since you do not have a charger. The HL2503-1 is the flasher. If you connect a jumper from pin 1 to pin 8 that should eliminate the flashing. The catch is that the on off switch may also go thru this component and you may not be able to turn the lights off. If this happens then put a switch in the jumper, you will then have one switch to turn the flashing on/off and the stock switch to turn the whole thing on/off. This is my best guess with what I have to work with. The data sheets that I could find are all in Chinese so I am guessing at a lot of it. 6601D english.pdf HL2503-1_datasheet.pdf

Cool Even with a stick shift.

Have you ever seen anyone advertise a bike as a piece of crap? Who would bother to go look at it? I never take the sellers word for condition.

HID and incandescent are both an omni directional light output from the light producing element. A LED is at best 180° or less, some much less of light output and requires a reflector and lens designed for the different way that LEDs produce their light. A LED in a housing and lens system designed for it is a wonderful light source. But put that same LED in a fixture not designed for it and the result can be disappointing to dangerous.

Not yet but the blood is there waiting to be hosed. I will have to hose it out next spring....... I like to keep the blood there for a while as a deterrent to other deer that may consider messing with me.

Somehow I do not think that would last me long. But it does look nice, and I bet it does a good job of keeping stuff from sliding around. I just have the old fashion slid in plastic liner and then I put in a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet, the kind with the foam rubber backing. The carpet and foam rubber keeps stuff from sliding around and every spring I can take it out and hose it down to get last winters deer blood out. Once it gets to yucky it is real cheap to get another one.

I DO, I DO!!! I use my cassette player all the time. I have a cassette to 1/8 phone adapter that allows me to use my Ipod on the bike. One end plugs into the Ipod and the other end looks like a cassette tape. Works great. I do not have the aux jack to plug into.

Can you give us the numbers from the 2 IC chips (The black things with 8 legs), and the transistor (black thing with 3 legs)? Can you post pics of the lights and the other side of the case with the photocell?

Yes @eagleeye I know you have a station 3 blocks away :jealous:. But because of all the pollution that floats up here from Chicago we get stuck in the stupid gas category. And since I am just 3 blocks from the lake, it is a long way out of this no matter which direction I head. I am almost halfway to your house for the nearest gas station.

At the rate we are going, yes......

Welcome to old. But the trick is to never let the younguns know how much it hurts to keep up with them. That way they think you are superman. If your shoulder is still hurting that bad after a week, It may be time to see your doc. You have to get that shoulder back in shape before the comes.

Just wire the batteries to the switch then to the lights. Disconnect the whole circuit board and always use the external charger for charging.

Well it depends. Are you relying on the photo cells for charging or using the charger input. They are most likely flashing the lights to save battery power. continuous on may drain the batteries pretty quick. depending on what the lights are. Getting it to stay on continuous may not be hard, but the power draw may kill it. For a better answer we need more info on what the lights are. and what the photocell is.

Expensive but better. Any ethanol free gas will be good for storage. It is the ethanol that is really bad. The race gas and the Aviation gas are a great alternative to those that can not get ethanol free gas. I have to drive over 100 miles to get ethanol free pump gas. I can get the race gas locally So if you add in the cost of 100 miles worth of gas in my truck, then the race gas aint so expensive anymore.

All that good info is in the link I posted back in post #4

Nice I usually get the best presents from myself to. Somehow I always know just what to get.

One of the government TLA (Three Letter Acronyms) agencies just recently passed some ruling that airports can no longer sell fuel to walk in customers with a gas can. 100LL still contains some lead and there are no road taxes being paid. People were buying it for the 100 octane to put in their sports cars and bikes. My local FBO says they can not dispense fuel without a tail number. Now if you know a pilot and he can say that the fuel is for his aircraft.......... If you can find this gas near you http://www.racegas.com/fuel/21 it is designed for winter storage and infrequently used motors and has a storage life if 3 years. Sunoco also has several other race gas formulas that would be very good for winter storage, they also have a location finder on the website to find the nearest sales outlet for each type of gas.

:sign yeah that: I just fill it with fresh gas (ethanol free if you can get it) that has a heavy dose of SeaFoam in it. Run it till it is fully warmed up to get the treated gas into the carbs. Once every 4-6 weeks I'll charge the battery. Do not fall into the trap of running the engine unless you are going out for a real ride to get the engine and trans fully warmed up. Just idling does more harm than good.

A lot, I lost count

I have not even cranked it up yet. Just a few test runs at a slow idle for testing, calibration and break in.

Also because of the power needs of the heater, make sure that you have a heavy duty extension cord to go from the gen to the heater. For up to a 25 foot cord it must be alt least 14ga wire, (the wire gauge should be stamped in the jacket of the cord0. You can have too small of a cord but you can never be to big. Always err on the side of bigger is better.

Regardless of the law or etiquette, safety for all comes second and safety for me and mine comes first. The law only requires that you do nothing to break the procession. As Puc said, you treat the whole procession as if it was all one car. Etiquette in some locals says to stop to show respect. If you do stop it must be where you can completely clear the traffic lane so that those who do not wish to show respect are not hindered by you stopping. To be honest, living in a bigger city, I have never seen anyone stop for a funeral procession where it was not required by law. In the city it would almost always be dangerous to stop for an oncoming procession. If everyone stopped for an oncoming procession it could easily start a gridlock that could tie up the procession. In a rural or smaller town setting, things may work out differently.

Get while the gettin is good. Most heaters will be pushing that 2000i to its limit. most heaters are 1500W and the Honda is only 1600W continuous output, that is getting close to max. Just be careful that you do not get way more heat than you bargained for.

Step 1 is very rarely to replace something. I'm cheap and hate to just throw money at a problem. Here is the charging test procedure broken down to layman's terms. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging