Flyinfool

sure do look interesting.

The latest fashion in footwear. Did I mention OW! Even with all of the drugs. But now I have to find things to do to brake the boredom.........

Cool

well I'm back. BUT OUCH!!!!

Do they supply a crane to get some of us old farts back up off the lawn?

Thanks again for all the prayers and well wishes. I'm leaving now for the hospital. If all goes per plan I'll be back here around noon to report. Although I may still be a bit loopy..........

Hmmm Never thought of that. I'll ask.

It is not advised. the glue burns very toxic.

There are 3 wires to each front bulb, ground, signal and running. You will be connecting to the signal and ground wires. The running light wire is blue.

That will most likely do it. Did you remember a new gasket?

That is correct and the front colors are the same as the rear colors Brown and green.

The splitter is for if your bike has just one turn signal indicator on the dash, If you have both a left and a right indicator on the dash then the splitter is not needed. If you are using the resistors I do not know if the splitter would be needed or not. The splitter is just 2 $0.50 diodes and 3 pieces of wire. The Kuryakyn I would not even use based on this warning in the installation sheet. Really? So if you have a roadside emergency and need your 4 way flashers, they expect you to rewire the bike on the side of the road, and then rewire it again when you are ready to leave? And don not get caught at a long red light or have a long wait for cross traffic to clear while at a stop sign? Really? So your options for load equalizers are; 1. Big Bike Parts quad equalizer at $54.80. 5 Wire connections required. 2. Kuryakyn load equalizer x 2 at $22 each = $44.00. 6 Wire connections required. This one scares me. 3. Resistors that I specified at $3.78 each = $7.56. 4 Wire connections required. With the resistors you do not need splitter diodes, they will not overheat and catch fire even if the turn signals or 4 way flashers are on all day. The resistors will get warm if used for an extended time, this is normal these are 50watt resistors, think of the heat produced as being half way between a 40W and 60W light bulb. But they are designed to handle this heat on a continuous basis and the turn signal or flasher are only on about 50% of the time. I do understand that for those that do not understand electronics this all does not make a lot of sense. But the manufacturers are counting on you not running into people like me that see it for what it really is. The prices for the parts are way high for what they really are.

Whether you need 2 or 4 resistors (load equalizers), depends on what resistor values you use. Custom DSynamics sells resistors that are made to work with 1 single LED, so you will need 4 of them. The CD resistors are 6 ohm 25W each. The resistors that I recommended will need just 1 resistor per side of the bike and will give proper load for 2 LED bulbs. The ones I used are 3.3 ohm 50W each. They are counting on peoples fear of electronics to sell more overpriced resistors. Using the breakout connector is a great Idea.

Thank you all for your prayers and well wishes. I really appreciate it. Finally got the details, I have to sign in at 6:30AM so that they can abuse me for 2 full hours before surgery starts. The surgery is self should take around 2 hours. Another 2 hours recovery and If all goes per plan, I could be home by noon. They do keep mentioning that there is a chance that due to my recent heart issues that they may keep me overnight to be sure all of the anesthesia stuff is out of my system. I'm shooting for home for lunch. Then starts the boredom, I will be desperately looking for things to occupy my poor little brain while I sit around with my foot elevated.

IF the LEDs and load resistor are installed correctly all functions of the bike will remain as they were before the conversion. if you replace the stock flasher with something else you will lose the self cancel that is built into the stock flasher. To some that is important to others it is not. There are some of the cheap LED replacement bulbs out there that are not compatible with the flasher circuit of a 1st gen. I do not know if the 2nd gens have the same grounding issue in the flasher circuits. There is also a major difference in brightness between brands and styles of replacement LEDs. Of course it must always be said, when putting in LEDs you must ALWAYS match the LED color to the lens color. Putting a white LED behind a red or amber lens is guaranteed disappointment with the brightness.

Whether you need the 2A or the 4A depends on the amp draw of the LEDs that you are going to use. On my 1st gen I used what would be close to the 4A. What I used was http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UAL50-3R3F8/696-1512-ND/3886548 at $3.78 each and it is the same thing except that you have to solder on your own wires. the shrink wrap that the Kuryakyn ones have is actually bad for them. Just the electrical connections should be shrink wrapped not the whole thing. the resistor has fins on it for cooling covering the whole thing with shrink tubing insulates the fins from getting rid of the heat. The resistors are not polarized so it does not matter which lead goes where. one lead goes to ground, the other lead goes to the wire that leads to the signal filament of the bulb. You do not need one for front and one for rear, you do need one for left and one for right. I do not know if Digi-Key ships to Canada, but if not, there must be some source of electronic parts in Canada. The resistor that you need is 3.3Ω, 50W, None of the other specs of the resistor matter in this application. Available from most electronic suppliers.

Well actually it is still in progress. I only wish it were done. It all started 2 years ago, I was walking through the woods during the deer hunting season. There was about 2-3 inches of fresh snow on the ground. I had all of my hunting gear which totals probably a bit over 40 lbs of stuff on me. I was on a fresh buck track and just moving thru the woods as quietly as I could trying to sneak up behind him. Well I got pretty close. He had bedded down and I saw him pop up about a hundred yards in front of me. 2 bounds and he was into the pines. But since I have hunted deer in this area a lot I knew that he was just going to run in circles around the big hill that stuck up in the middle of the woods. This hill is steep and around 50-60 feet high. So I cut right and ran up that hill as fast as I could go thru the snow covered woods to cut that buck off on the other side of the hill. Well half way up the hill I slipped on a smooth bark-less stick that I did not see under the snow. My foot slipped to the side and I fell to my knees but the toe of my foot stayed on that stick. Then because of the angle of the hill I fell over backwards landing butt first on my foot and twisted it all the way around until the toe touched my butt. DANG THAT HURT!!! But being dedicated as I am I managed to continue staggering up to the top of the hill and sure enough here came that buck looking back behind him to see if I was following. It turned out that he was delicious. But I had to call in my buddies to get both me and the deer out of the woods and into the truck. Fast forward 2 years and a month and the docs are finally going to try to reattach my right foot to the end of my leg.

There is also someone that makes a trailer designed for carrying a dog. A trailer would be a lot easier to connect and remove as needed. I just googled "motorcycle trailer for dogs" and there are lots of pics and info including where to buy.

But, But, But,,,,,,,,,I'm violently allergic to beer......... My very first beer ever I was in the ER before I got halfway thru it. I have seen to many people do additional damage to themselves by having drugs that took ALL the pain away. I really do not like having either one of my remaining 2 brain cells messed with.

The load equalizers are easy to install and really do put a load on the electrical system. you only turn the signals on for a few seconds at a time only while turning or changing lanes. When the signals are on they are only actually lit 50% of the time. So the power draw is insignificant in the overall scheme of things. The real power savings of LED comes from replacing all of the lights that are on all the time. With all of that said, I am sure that you could get an electronic flasher that will work with both signals and hazard flashers and allow you to not use load resisters. I do not know enough about the specifics of 2nd gen wiring to recommend one.

I will be finding out all about the late night P runs while on crutches. Not to mention dealing with a Wisconsin style winter on one foot. Yup that first night will be interesting. The knee scooter just looks like it might be fun. As long as I don't crash.

Glad to see that Tippy is doing well. Puc you better take good care of her. We want to see that famous smile of hers for a long long time.

She looks familiar....... I may NEED a nurse or 3. And her number is????????? I sure hope it is someone else butt cause I have determined after intense experimentation that kicking one own butt is NOT fun.

See, we knew you could not have been running on all cylinders. Just be careful, for a big ol' thing it will still lift the front wheel off the ground when you get on it hard. Kind of sneaks up on ya the first time it happens.

I am sure this round started life a long time ago as a wildcat, many now common rounds started life as a wildcat, but it is now readily available over the counter. I do all of my own reloading not just to save cost, but also to optimize the load to the specific gun it is going into. The gun will shoot factory ammo just fine I have never heard of a "pistol Round" available in 7mm-08, although some of the reloading manuals do list handgun loads for it. The muzzle flash is quite impressive with factory ammo since they were expecting 26-30 inches of barrel to burn it in and not 14 inches of barrel. The muzzle brake also increases the perceived muzzle flash. But that is all part of the fun. A little history for your reading pleasure. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7mm-08_Remington