Flyinfool

The friction plat #7 that is in there now has a larger ID than the other plates. #4 , 5, and 6 are in that larger ID. The #7 plate because of the bigger ID has a friction band that is half the width of the other plates, the new plate will be identical to all of the other plates this will give you 50% more grip at that location which seems to make all the difference in the world. Once you install this new plate and heavy spring you will notice slightly more pull need to pull in the clutch from the heavier spring not bad, just more than there was. The other thing that you will notice is that the friction zone will be narrower and the clutch will not engage until just before the lever is all of the way out. This is just how it work out. For checking your friction discs for wear. A new disk is 3mm (.118 inch) thick, the wear limit is 2.8mm (.110 thick). That aint much. only 0.1mm (.004 inch) of material on each side between new and worn out. I would not replace the disks unless they are worn more than 50%, 2.9mm (.114 inch).

The friction plat #7 that is in there now has a larger ID than the other plates. #4 , 5, and 6 are in that larger ID. The #7 plate because of the bigger ID has a friction band that is half the width of the other plates, the new plate will be identical to all of the other plates this will give you 50% more grip at that location which seems to make all the difference in the world. Once you install this new plate and heavy spring you will notice slightly more pull need to pull in the clutch from the heavier spring not bad, just more than there was. The other thing that you will notice is that the friction zone will be narrower and the clutch will not engage until just before the lever is all of the way out. This is just how it work out.

The one new plate would replace 4, 5, 6, and 7.

Did you buy him a chicken dinner to make a point????????

OH NO!!!!!!!! Just when we almost had this figured out....................... More flaky than usual............ I did not think that was possible with this bunch of flakes. OR did you mean you want more flakes than normal..........................

What snowman? I don't see no snowman........... You know the rules, it didn't happen if there aint no I was told this by

55/60

I have the Skydoc kit and all slipping is gone, even while pulling a heavy trailer and making a group of Hardleys look bad.

I do not remember if the headlight out gives the red warning or not. The white headlight indicator is to tell you that you have a headlight filament that is burnt out as is the indicator on the LCD. Couple of thoughts. It is possible that the PO installed a different type of headlight as in LED or HID or even possibly a lower wattage. The RLU and the LCD each sense current to each filament to decide if the bulb is out. a different bulb could be drawing less current and the system thinks the bulb is out. First thing to do is to pull the bulb and check it out. Yes the stock bulb is an H4.

One resolution down the tubes @BoomerCPO says he will be here more, makes this one post and disappears again. The pygmies must have escaped from lockup.

The ABS pipe cement is at most any hardware store or other place that sells plumbing supplies. Some of the adhesives are for PVC and some are for ABS. They are slightly different. Make a strong effort to keep the cap on the can as much as possible, it will harden in the can pretty quick. It skins over very fast, dries very fast in thin layers, a but in a deep joint it can still take a day or 2 for full cure. You do not want to paint over it for a few days to be sure all of the solvents have evaporated. Stick your nose on it and if you can still smell the solvents, it ain't fully cured yet. The glass cloth you can get at most hobby shops as it is used a lot on model airplanes, or get it at most marine stores that sell stuff for repairing boats, Even some places that sell auto paint and refinishing supplies. Neither is expensive.

OK so I am deaf in one eye and I cant hear out of the other one........ That's it, I can blame the drugs, yea that's it..............................

But if Puc got a 2nd gen Venture for the new chapters they would be some real slow reading.......

I think if my body was a car it would either be on a flatbed on its way to the scrap yard or set out in someones front yard as yard art. After all it just had a wheel fall off which was put back on but it is still flat, the oil pump has issues, and it seem to have a persistent intermittent radiator leak. There also seems to be a short in the computer system cuz something just aint right.

Here is the ground upgrade. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?46890-First-Gen-Starter-Ground-Upgrade You will have to PM or email @Dingy about the Starter cables, he was making and selling them.

WOW What a story Thanks Puc

It rained on you because you bugged out early.

UPDATE Went back to work today. I can tell from the mountain on my desk how much that they missed me. My foot was down to no pain while resting with the foot elevated, but still hurt while the foot was on the floor. Before I left work I had done some prep work on my office. I got an adjustable height mechanics seat from HF to put under my desk to keep my foot elevated. That helped a lot today. I only stayed at work for a half day and that will be the norm for a while. My foot was hurting pretty bad by the time I got home. The worst part was driving. It is hard to have your foot elevated while driving. I keep doing my assigned exercises and my range of motion is improvising, no where near where it needs to be, but at least headed in the right direction. I go back to doc again next week to see how things are going.

Best place to stay is by the pond monsters.

That is the plan. I posted on a neighborhood watch website and have since exchanged a couple of texts with his dad. Dad has spoken to son and son is willing to do the job. Now we just need to get together to iron out the details. This is Wisconsin. at $50 per visit for a "PRO" I could be bankrupt by spring.

Using a solvent based adhesive that melts the plastic together will give the strongest possible repair. Heat welding can equal or even exceed the strength of a solvent bond IF you add additional material to reinforce the joint so that the filler can make the joint stronger than the original material and you get a full penetration weld. Adhesives that do not melt into the original material require a lot of surface prep so that they can grip the surface to try to hold it together. My favorite for cracks in ABS is to first use a thin solvent adhesive that will wick into the joint and melt the 2 parts together. If the original ABS was broken into two pieces, I use ABS pipe cement to glue then together. I let this dry completely so I now have a part that will retain its shape while I work on it. I then lay down a film of ABS pipe cement and into that I lay fiberglass cloth with another layer of the ABS pipe cement rubbed into the cloth. This softens the surface of the original ABS and actually embeds the glass cloth into the original ABS making it stronger than the day it was molded. Face it, if it cracked once that means it never was strong enough as designed. Adding in the glass cloth will make it stronger than designed and hopefully will not break there again.

It is looking like I might have a teenager lined up. He just needs to stop over and discuss what exactly needs to get done and a price.

11th can work, gives an extra week of healing time. Even if I ain't healed, I still got the big red truck.

MD is usually the weekend after Memorial day, that would be June 4th this year, that would work for me.

That's my point, there is no "User Gallery" under my username. Yet I know I have an album with pics that I can find with a lot of effort.