Flyinfool

HEY! I resemble that pic.....................

3,000 miles? Holy man cave find Batman. Welcome aboard. I am sure it will not take you to long to figure out which of us are the Loony Tunes. But then sometimes a warped mind can come up with some really great ideas on how to fix stuff. Then you will really need to watch out for the @Cowpuc character as he is the Chief of the Picture Police. Ol Puc will be sure to let you know that if there aint pics it didn't happen. Yes we even like pics of bare nekid bikes with all of their plastic clothes removed. Speaking of plastic, remove yours gently, new plastic does not exist. Ebay will be your friend to find usable plastic. A lot of the plastic on ebay still needs some repairs. Fortunately the plastic is all ABS which is very easy to repair to better than new condition. Let the fun begin......................

Ckeck the red/white wire to see if its power is dropping out. Check the wire on the otherside of the coil at low RPM, if it is pulsing like it should ,your voltmeter will give all kinds of weird readings. If it reads zero then either the coil is open and/or the TCI is not switching properly. If it is reading a steady 12v then the TCI is not switching it to ground. If you have a 12V LED (test light) and you connect it across the coil it should flash in time with the spark.

There are 2 wires to each coil. The red wire with white strip that goes to all of the coils should have 12 V all the time that the ignition is turned on, running or not, it should not pulse when the engine is running. The other wire (color varies by cylinder) is the wire that goes to the TCI. The TCI supplies the switched ground to the coil, This wire will be pulsing between ground and 12v with the engine running. It is not worth the effort to try to measure this wire with a volt meter, you will get all kinds of weird readings. You could check this wire with the ignition on and engine not running, it should show near 12V which would verify that you do not have an open coil. This will not tell you if the coil is good, just checks one possible form of bad. The red/white wire that goes to the TCI is the same circuit as the red/white wire to the coils. BUT the wire goes thru the kill switch between the TCI and the coils. So if the TCI has clean 12v and the coils do not, check the kill switch.

WHAT??????

PARTY!!!!!!! NEKID CHAT!!!!! RUM Balls!!! **Yeababy**

Not only make sure that you have good solder joints but also that you have not bridged any solder joints. Although dropping out under 1400 RPM sounds more like a failing component than a bad solder joint. A bad connection would still be bad at all speeds. If you can find someone nearby that might have a known good TCI to try, you could quickly narrow the source of your issues.

Awesome time laps of "The Blizzard"

For standard hardware type bolts the size is coded in the part number as dia and length but not the thread pitch. On the Banjo bolts the coding does not make sense as dia and length so it might just be a meaningless part number. For example; a 97026-06030-00 is a 6mm x 30mm long. a 98706-04012-00 is a 4mm x 12mm long. But then the banjo bolts are; a 90401-10096-00 is a 10mm single banjo bolt but I know it is not 96mm (3.78 inches)long. A 90401-10044-00 is a 10mm double banjo bolt and might actually be close to 44mm (1.73 inches) long.

I'm not sure about that left handed spanner. I think it might need a left handed, metric, adjustable wrench. That is the same tool needed to adjust my snow nozzles.

Is it broken or do you need it extracted from a dark place........................

Just show the Warden which end of the shovel to hold and then you will have a good excuse to stay in bed till next month..........

We always knew that ol Puck was full of something............................

It is wonderful Boss man. :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

The only dumb question is the one that was never asked.

I'm not so worried about the shoe horn needed to get my carcass in there as I am worried about the crane needed to get me back out. It does look interesting and IF it ever comes out I might even get one. They claim it will handle snow just fine because it is front wheel drive, but have they ever driven it in snow. I have had front wheel drive cars that were the worst thing ever in snow or even just wet roads. I agree that it will need a provision for a trailer hitch. The web page says they will be delivering 48,000+ units in 2016, but they have not yet started to hire the 1500 workers to do it. They have a plant location. but that is an awful long way from a fully tooled plant. I can't help but to think that it aint gonna happen in 2016.

It is all a balancing act. The 7" brakes are very small so they have very little braking power so the standard controller will still work. The controllers can be turned way down also, Same as when I pulled my empty cargo trailer behind my truck and the trailer had brakes strong enough to lock the wheels when loaded to 7,000 lbs but yet can be turned down to not lock the wheels when unloaded at 1200 lbs.

Do you still have summer blend gas in it? Winter blend has more of the lighter fractions to help vaporization and cold weather starting.

Awesome. I'm speechless................

Just keep a lot of small stashes of cash everywhere so that if you get robbed they just get one pocket full, not all of it. Same with you Camera cards so you do not lose all of your pics.

The hubs and axles on the trailer are all metric, you can go to a bearing store and get the correct metric bearing in a much better quality than stock. Even though the sizes are real close, they are not close enough to mix SAE and Metric parts. If you are going to convert to American sizes you will be best off to build a complete new axle assembly. Get a piece of square tubing, weld on the new stubs and mount the new hubs with good old 1" bearings available anywhere. The only part that you would not be replacing is the piece between the stubs, stock is just a chunk of sheet metal bent into a U. It will cost more to try to salvage that piece than to just replace it. Halfway between us in Illinois is a place called R&P Carriage that sells all the stuff you would need at good prices. I am planning to do the same thing but I will be setting it up with 7" electric brakes. If you make a new setup, make sure to get the stuff that will allow you to add electric brakes latter on if you wish.

Your Welcome......................

Since you posted twice does that mean you got 50+". that would be something.

Since the tach is also dropping out that means the the problem is on the primary side of the coil. check all that wiring and connectors. Check to be sure that a pin has not backed out of the connector to cause intermittent contact.

I wonder how that super soft seal reacts to -25F or 150F. Both and everything between can happen here.