Flyinfool

Class does not go thru the main fuse block, it has a separate fuse.

A spinning sound that does not turn over the engine sounds more like a broken starter clutch. The starter clutch is not in the starter, it is on the flywheel under the left engine cover.

It depends on what kind of a noise your starter is making. If it is a grinding noise it might be the starter. If it is a loud banging that someone is inside the engine with a hammer trying to get out, then it is likely the starter clutch. Bad noise while starting is not always the starter.

Well since he has not said it is a bike, that must means it is for playing in the snow. I better whip up a batch to send up there real quick................

If you do the Vmax heads you may not want to give this one to your son, you might want it for yourself................. I was able to find a post about removing the rear head with engine in bike, but not one for the front. If it can be done I am sure someone on here has done it. I am not sure what all parts if any would have to be replaced to use the max heads.

Welcome to the funny farm................ I seem to remember someone on here replacing head gaskets on a 1st gen and not pulling the motor. If you are going head shopping and swapping, I would look for a set of V-Max heads. By the time you get the front head off you are not far from getting the other one off.

Welcome. If it is cranking for 10-20 seconds before it starts, then the starter is not likely tour issue. Are you using the choke when starting?

Never mind what? ..................

I paid $60 for front and rear tires mounted, balanced, new metal valve stems, and old tire disposal fees. I brought them the rims with the old ties on them and the new tires, they wanted an additional $250 if I just brought them the bike and new tires. SO I learned how to take the wheels off the bike.

Maybe you need some snow to keep the ice off the deck...............

I'm guessing that since it is a guyed tower, you do not want anything airborne anywhere near it. It is also a whole lot cheaper to pay those 2 guys a couple hours pay to climb and another couple hours pay to climb down that what it would cost for a helicopter and pilot plus the 2 man crew.

Sounds kind of like this job https://youtu.be/hFMHjDqHL_Y

I set all of mine as close as possible to the max limit. The clarence actually gets tighter with wear. By setting to max you get the best life befoe work is needed again.

I have not worn out a rear tire yet, I have only had the bike for 20K miles. I did replace one rear due to age, not wear. I now have 9K on my set of E3s, they still look real good.

Checking the charging system is not difficult, even for the electrically challenged. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging

Yes it is heavy It also has a high center of gravity, It will take a bit of practice to learn how to handle this. There is a known hard starting issue when the engine is hot. There are 3 possible fixes, many do all 3, 1. new battery, you already did that. 2. new starter wires, upgrade to #4AWG welding wire. 3. replace starter with newer 4 brush starter. To test the charging system http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging

Its easy, while typing the add you just press the M - I - N and T buttons on your keyboard. Maybe she was referring to the Julep she was drinking? Don't all mint condition vehicles need paint and engine work?

That is the way it is supposed to work, the water improves the electrical contact where the wires are joined...... But on a more serious side, pure clean water is nearly an insulator, on the brighter side it probably means that she has a pretty clean water source. In that pic it looks like there is a lot of rust in the water which would make it a pretty good conductor, I would think it should have popped the breaker, I wonder if the breaker is good? It is certainly not a GFI type breaker.

Dan you know the Warden still has that frying pan and will have whats left of your scalp if you try to come home with ANOTHER 2 wheeled bike. But I have no such limitations...................

Something else to check. You mentioned that you tried a valve tool that was welded. it is easy to get the weld thick enough so that it will hit the head as it comes around. If this happens it will dimple the soft aluminum of the head and push a burr into the bore for the bucket, that can interfere with valve movement. There was a thread a while back where someone damaged the head and it prevented the valves from closing all the way. It had how he fixed it. I am trying to find it. no luck so far.

He said it was junk cuz he wants it. Sounds like a deal to me, $600 for a running low mileage bike. What are the minor issues? And of course we do have rules here.

I am sorry to hear that you are on crutches, that would be the only way you cant catch a RSV..... If you were on your 1st gen, you really should plug in at least one of the 2 disconnected spark plug wires when you go for rides..........

It is the bearings that squeal, the gears are making the crunching grinding noise. I still thought it was a good question................

Did you do the upgrade to #4 AWG cables to the starter and ground? There are 3 cables that need to be upgraded. This will allow the power that the starter needs to actually get there.

I DID IT!!!! I DID IT!!!! Today I went out to the shed and got the bike up on the center stand and onto the center stand dolly with no real difficulty. This has been my projected litmus test as to when I am ready to ride. My PT has agreed that if I can lift the beast onto the center stand that I am strong enough to ride it. I have my last PT visit on April 6 so I will see what she has to say. On her leg press machine I am able to lift 350 lbs (machine max) with either leg. Now I can start working on getting the bike ready to go........... LOOK OUT, Trouble is comin..................