Flyinfool

You assume correctly.

E4 error code is almost always a bad solder joint on air ride controller board, simple resolder of the connector pins. There are 3 wires that need to be upgraded to #4 . Factory ran #10awg to starter. Here is info on testing the charging system. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging

Just a few left.

Best of luck with the repairs and I hope the MRI mystery is the same as mine, I blob of fatty tissue where it did not belong and it took 2 seconds to make it go away. I think it might actually be a rarity to follow Dr orders to the letter. But I did and doc said I healed faster than any patent she ever had. Just maybe they do know a thing or 2.

More info on this HOAX. There is a reason it is unbelievable.............. But the F15 is real.

Looks interesting. It does look better than the stock setup. If you are now having starter clutch issues then it is most likely that the 72 tooth gear is also shot. It looks like this kit includes that gear. It is nice that it includes a gasket, to bad it does not include the other 2 gaskets that you will need. Or you can contact @Dano on this site for more info on his starter clutch rebuild. The stock setup uses 3 rollers. This ebay setup uses 6 rollers. Danos setup uses 18 rollers. There are several of us that have Danos setup and it has been bullet proof so far. I was the second person to get the Dano mod.

I finally last week got my bike up onto the center stand so that I can start on my winter projects. It is supposed to be warm and sunny all this week.................... So far it has snowed on all but 4 days this month. I sure hope old @Cowpuc aint sitting on those dogs to keep them warm...................

It sure is purdy. It even looks comphy. But a ford motor................ There is a local trike that has the whole back end of a Pontiac Fiero GT. With the V6 engine. From behind you have no idea that you are not following a car. But yet he somehow got it all to blend together beautifully.

I would get it running and ride it some before throwing money at upgrades. Your springs might not be that bad. I still have the original springs in my 88, with a set of progressives that have been sitting on the shelf for about 4 years now. I have restored an OEM windscreen to looking almost like new by sanding it with 400 wet, then progressing thru all of the grades to 2000 of wet paper, then using several grades of polishing compounds. You have to be super careful cleaning it after this because it will scratch very easy, You just removed the protective hard coat from the factory. As long as you are not real abusive this will get you a couple of years good service out of it. And what Dan said about the rest of the stuff.

I have never heard of this method. I would be skeptical. Our rotors are pretty hard. That does not mean it cant work.

The guy that does the starter clutches is @Dano. I would inspect the stator, it there are any signs of overheating then yes replace it, If no sign of overheat then leave it.

Class does not go thru the main fuse block, it has a separate fuse.

A spinning sound that does not turn over the engine sounds more like a broken starter clutch. The starter clutch is not in the starter, it is on the flywheel under the left engine cover.

It depends on what kind of a noise your starter is making. If it is a grinding noise it might be the starter. If it is a loud banging that someone is inside the engine with a hammer trying to get out, then it is likely the starter clutch. Bad noise while starting is not always the starter.

Well since he has not said it is a bike, that must means it is for playing in the snow. I better whip up a batch to send up there real quick................

If you do the Vmax heads you may not want to give this one to your son, you might want it for yourself................. I was able to find a post about removing the rear head with engine in bike, but not one for the front. If it can be done I am sure someone on here has done it. I am not sure what all parts if any would have to be replaced to use the max heads.

Welcome to the funny farm................ I seem to remember someone on here replacing head gaskets on a 1st gen and not pulling the motor. If you are going head shopping and swapping, I would look for a set of V-Max heads. By the time you get the front head off you are not far from getting the other one off.

Welcome. If it is cranking for 10-20 seconds before it starts, then the starter is not likely tour issue. Are you using the choke when starting?

Never mind what? ..................

I paid $60 for front and rear tires mounted, balanced, new metal valve stems, and old tire disposal fees. I brought them the rims with the old ties on them and the new tires, they wanted an additional $250 if I just brought them the bike and new tires. SO I learned how to take the wheels off the bike.

Maybe you need some snow to keep the ice off the deck...............

I'm guessing that since it is a guyed tower, you do not want anything airborne anywhere near it. It is also a whole lot cheaper to pay those 2 guys a couple hours pay to climb and another couple hours pay to climb down that what it would cost for a helicopter and pilot plus the 2 man crew.

Sounds kind of like this job https://youtu.be/hFMHjDqHL_Y

I set all of mine as close as possible to the max limit. The clarence actually gets tighter with wear. By setting to max you get the best life befoe work is needed again.

I have not worn out a rear tire yet, I have only had the bike for 20K miles. I did replace one rear due to age, not wear. I now have 9K on my set of E3s, they still look real good.