Flyinfool

Neither. Take of the rear wheel and then the 4 bolts that hold on the final drive and slide the driveshaft out the back. The U joint will come out with the shaft. You should be doing this regularly anyhow as part of normal maintenance anytime the rear wheel comes off to grease the spline at the front of the drive shaft.

Its been a long time since I was in there, There is a washer with an internal spline that is common to get in the wrong place that can cause your issue, the washer does not go where it looks like it should. double check the assembly diagrams to be sure you have it right.

First off, I love my HID. Check to see if your HID comes on with the ignition switch. the reason that you do not want the HID to come on with the ignition is that when you go to start the bike and the battery voltage dips while the starter is cranking, if the voltage dips below the safety cutoff in the HID it will turn off the HID. If the Cut off turns off the HID, then to reset it you have to turn off the ignition and restart the bike and hope that this time the HID stays lit. With a fairly new battery is not near as much of an issue as once you get a couple of years on your battery. To solve this many people put the HID on a switch so that they can turn it on after the bike is running, but you have to remember to turn it on in the daytime. I have mine connected thru a latching relay that taps into the brake light so the first time I use either brake the headlight is on. I never get far without using the brake so this way I can never forget to turn it on in the daytime. Some people use a 10 second delay relay so that they have 10 seconds to get the bike started before the HID turns on. As far as power, Don't let the term LED fool you about amp draw. A lot of the new very bright LEDs actually will pull more power than the stock Halogen bulb, some pull a lot more. Read the specs on what you are looking at. If they will not say what the watts or amp draw is, there may be a reason they don't want you to know. HID are available in either 35W or 50/55W. A 55W HID will match the power draw of the original halogen bulb, the 35W HID will draw even less power that the factory bulb while at the same time put out about 3 times more light. The 55W will put out about 5 times more light than stock. While there are now LED systems that can match the performance of an HID. They will not work well as a retrofit. LEDs have a directional light output and your stock lens and reflector were designed for an omnidirectional light source. The HID bulb still gives you an omnidirectional light source so the retrofit will work much better, your beam will be properly focused and not be blinding oncoming traffic. LED conversions tend to scatter light with a poorly focused beam, blinding oncoming traffic, and because the beam is not properly focused they look very bright right in front of you, but do poorly with lighting things up way down the road. Now an LED in a housing designed for an LED is a wonderful light source that will match the HID in light output because its beam will be properly focused. So once you figure out how yours HIDs are set up, we can help you to get it to the way you want it. It is not hard to do. MD is coming......

Yes it is......

OOH OOH OOOH, Me too...........

OK we'll chase the easy one first. Check at the ignition fuse to see if you have 12V on both sides of the fuse with the ignition on. There should be 2 tiny metal terminals in the top of the fuse to check power at. If power only on one side of fuse, replace the fuse even if it looks good. If there is power on both sides of fuse, you have a break in the red white wire somewhere between the fuse and the solenoid. If power on neither side of fuse, check the signal fuse for power on both sides. Report back.

Push the buttons and see what happens............

I had a wife that thought I should sell my toys and spend the money on her..........

LED lighting controller?

3 hours is about what it would take to drive that thing from my house to @cowpuc house. The short way

I guess I'm off the hook, I'm allergic to beer, I would make 1/3 less than anyone else.

Yes the clutch lever will go all the way to the grip. Unlike brakes the pressure does not increase as the lever moves farther, it stays pretty constant over the full range of travel. The amount of movement in the clutch is very small and would be hard to see.

I guess now we need to find out which way it is tipping. Leaning to far and standing to tall are completely different issues.

I never went as deep as you are headed, I will take a look at my spare heads over the weekend to see if I can figure it out for you. Unless of course someone jumps in here first.

Well if you do find any spare marbles, I have been told that I have lost more than just a few of mine.

What air pressures are you running in the front and rear shocks. If the shocks are to low on pressure the bike will be very straight up when on the side stand. Also check you tire pressure to be sure it is up to where it is supposed to be.

A sticky slide can often be freed up with some carb cleaner sprayed on and working it back and fort manually. Once moving freely then get it running with some Seafoam to finish cleaning it out.

I love flywheel pulling stories, There are a few. I had my own. I think you missed a designed in feature on the flywheel. There is a hex boss that is there to put a big wrench on to hold the flywheel still while you tighten or loosen the center bolt and even while cranking on the puller for removal. You just put on the wrench and rotate the flywheel around till the wrench hits the foot rest, now everything is solid while you work on tightening and loosening things that want to turn. This takes it back to an easy one man job. That is also the hex that I used for turning over the engine when I did my Valve lash adjustments. An electric impact does not stand a chance, even my professional grad air impact did not stand a chance even when I cranked the air up to 150psi, I used the 24" breaker bar with another 2 foot piece of pipe on it to get enough force on the puller to POP the flywheel loose. The good news is that once you get it off the first time, it will never be as hard to get off again. The factory must torque that thing down to about a million LB/FT of torque. Someone also told me that the factory puts bearing retainer on the taper, but I saw no sign of that when I took mine apart. Your getting closer to ride time.

I have not noticed this one, but then I have pretty good spam filters set up. I get about 70-80 spams a day that I never have to see, they go right in the trash automatically.

I have never seen any vehicle that I thought looked good with WW tires. I guess they just are not my thing. But then I have always been a bit different............

We can start at the solenoid since you are already there. For clarity, the start relay is a separate component from the start solenoid. The solenoid is the one with the big wires direct from the battery. Just so we are all using the same nomenclature for clarity. If you connect +12V to the Red/White pin and ground to the Blue pin of the solenoid, it will crank if the solenoid is good. On the wire harness side, if you connect your volt meter from the red white wire to ground you should see 12V anytime the key is on. If you set the meter to Ohms and connect from the blue wire to ground, it should read no continuity, when you push the start button it should read very low resistance. These tests can also be done with a test light.

You do know that being bikeless is no reason to leave. But Welcome back. Now we need the rules refresher course about pictures............................

My EX wife once said I had to choose between her and my toys, So I went out and bought a new 4x4 Suburban with everything on it........... I chose wisely.

Welcome back Boss man. We are gonna hold you that wearing out of the white walls too. Now you can lead the trip to Friday night dinner without everyone carboning up behind you, Now it will only be the 1st gens carboning up behind you.................. Oppie, did I type that out loud..........

I am still trying to figure out where the tank of gas went prior to putting the front end back on the bike. That one still has me baffled.