Flyinfool

So then in addition to checking the bolt as mentioned, Go back to checking post #2 and #5 . I had this issue when I first got my bike and was able to solve it just by playing with front and rear air pressures in the shocks and tire pressure. Just for giggles, also check to be sure that you have the recommended tire sizes installed.

Is it possible to reroute the cables to allow full steering and full throttle? Not that you would ever need them both at the same time but still. Oh by the way, your 1st gen felt faster cuz it is.......................

That is why I make 2 copies one stored off site. The odds of 2 places both burning or being destroyed is really slim. If one is destroyed it only takes a few minutes to copy the surviving one. A second copy is also a LOT less expensive than a really good fire safe.

What Bob said. and The front springs will die of old age not miles, those springs may well be toast. @cowpuc does a good job of explaining how to check this.

First off, welcome to the forum. It is always helpful to mention the bike that you are working on, Saves us from have to figure it out. As far as being worn out, unless it was abused and not maintained, 91K is no where near worn out for this engine. There are some members here with over 200K and even a few with 300K. The 83,84 and some of the 85s have an issue with 2nd gear going out due to a thrust washer that is not properly hardened. To fix this requires that you split the case. This could be a reason for all of the red sealant that you see. You do not need to pull the top end apart to fix the 2nd gear issue, so if that is what was done then the cams should not have been touched. As long as you have the valve covers off, check the valve clearance to adjust if needed. The way this engine works is the clearance gets tighter with wear until it gets to zero and the valve will no longer close. You mentioned that you had spark only on #3 . I would start looking there. You can disassemble the spark plug caps and inside there is a resistor, this is known to get corroded and block the spark. clean up all the parts and retest for spark. As for your cam timing issue, I have to go back and reread what you wrote a couple more times to fully understand what you are seeing.

Glad you got it fixed. Hands on can do in an hour what would take days of step by step in a forum.

Is that why just to celebrate you sent us another blast of cold air? @cowpuc aint gonna be happy about more cold air, he knows what happens when I get cold.........

So sorry to hear of this, I wish there were something I could do to help out. Eck I have also done that, except that I made 2 copies, one that is in the fire safe at home and another that is stored with someone I trust off site, just incase that tornado or fire happens when I am not home. As a note, most fire safes are rated to keep paper from burning for 20 minutes in a fire. That means that the inside temp will stay under 350°F for 20 minutes in a house fire. Your thumb drive will melt long before paper burns. Here is some good reading on fire safe ratings. http://www.deansafe.com/fire-ratings-in-home-safes-and-gun-safes.html

We need Video......

Interesting. Even the ad says the same issue that everyone has when attempting to run a car carburetor on a venture. The flat spot on acceleration.

Yup, I looked at the diagrams and my poor old brain was all messed up. Ignore what I said about taking it apart. The spline on the front of the shaft still needs to be greased though.

I was sure that the U joint came out with my drive shaft, when I last changed tires. But then it was a few years ago and I do suffer from CRS.

Hmmmmm If the starter spins and NONE of the little gears move, did you put that first one in upside down or switch the two idlers positions. You should be able to look at the pinion on the starter and see if it is engaging the first little gear. It has been don that the flywheel was not lined up on the key way and that will cause it to not seat down fully. Double check that to. It is not good for the gears to spin the starter with the side cover off. They are only supported on one side. You can bump the starter a few times just to be sure it is all moving.

Neither. Take of the rear wheel and then the 4 bolts that hold on the final drive and slide the driveshaft out the back. The U joint will come out with the shaft. You should be doing this regularly anyhow as part of normal maintenance anytime the rear wheel comes off to grease the spline at the front of the drive shaft.

Its been a long time since I was in there, There is a washer with an internal spline that is common to get in the wrong place that can cause your issue, the washer does not go where it looks like it should. double check the assembly diagrams to be sure you have it right.

First off, I love my HID. Check to see if your HID comes on with the ignition switch. the reason that you do not want the HID to come on with the ignition is that when you go to start the bike and the battery voltage dips while the starter is cranking, if the voltage dips below the safety cutoff in the HID it will turn off the HID. If the Cut off turns off the HID, then to reset it you have to turn off the ignition and restart the bike and hope that this time the HID stays lit. With a fairly new battery is not near as much of an issue as once you get a couple of years on your battery. To solve this many people put the HID on a switch so that they can turn it on after the bike is running, but you have to remember to turn it on in the daytime. I have mine connected thru a latching relay that taps into the brake light so the first time I use either brake the headlight is on. I never get far without using the brake so this way I can never forget to turn it on in the daytime. Some people use a 10 second delay relay so that they have 10 seconds to get the bike started before the HID turns on. As far as power, Don't let the term LED fool you about amp draw. A lot of the new very bright LEDs actually will pull more power than the stock Halogen bulb, some pull a lot more. Read the specs on what you are looking at. If they will not say what the watts or amp draw is, there may be a reason they don't want you to know. HID are available in either 35W or 50/55W. A 55W HID will match the power draw of the original halogen bulb, the 35W HID will draw even less power that the factory bulb while at the same time put out about 3 times more light. The 55W will put out about 5 times more light than stock. While there are now LED systems that can match the performance of an HID. They will not work well as a retrofit. LEDs have a directional light output and your stock lens and reflector were designed for an omnidirectional light source. The HID bulb still gives you an omnidirectional light source so the retrofit will work much better, your beam will be properly focused and not be blinding oncoming traffic. LED conversions tend to scatter light with a poorly focused beam, blinding oncoming traffic, and because the beam is not properly focused they look very bright right in front of you, but do poorly with lighting things up way down the road. Now an LED in a housing designed for an LED is a wonderful light source that will match the HID in light output because its beam will be properly focused. So once you figure out how yours HIDs are set up, we can help you to get it to the way you want it. It is not hard to do. MD is coming......

Yes it is......

OOH OOH OOOH, Me too...........

OK we'll chase the easy one first. Check at the ignition fuse to see if you have 12V on both sides of the fuse with the ignition on. There should be 2 tiny metal terminals in the top of the fuse to check power at. If power only on one side of fuse, replace the fuse even if it looks good. If there is power on both sides of fuse, you have a break in the red white wire somewhere between the fuse and the solenoid. If power on neither side of fuse, check the signal fuse for power on both sides. Report back.

Push the buttons and see what happens............

I had a wife that thought I should sell my toys and spend the money on her..........

LED lighting controller?

3 hours is about what it would take to drive that thing from my house to @cowpuc house. The short way

I guess I'm off the hook, I'm allergic to beer, I would make 1/3 less than anyone else.

Yes the clutch lever will go all the way to the grip. Unlike brakes the pressure does not increase as the lever moves farther, it stays pretty constant over the full range of travel. The amount of movement in the clutch is very small and would be hard to see.