Flyinfool

Ummmm Yes we were. I was there from 8:30 to 9:30 central time. I don't know what time the other got there, they were there before me.

I think I see another Venture coming up for sale in the $40K range...............

I would have been the poor guy in the lowly Cessna.................. That reminded me of this old story, Even though this one is not true it is still a good story.

If you are worried about it you can always offer to pull one of your spark plug wires so that the Harley can keep up....... Our carbs being vacuum operated mixture control has the effect of altitude compensation. Unless you have rejetted or made other modifications to get everything possible out of your engine you will be fine.

Those pieces are from the ball retainer, I originally thought you meant the outer ring of the bearing came apart. I have seen a lot of ball retainers fail over the years. I never saw or heard of it in one of our bikes, but I have seen it on a lot of bearings in other applications. The 2 halves of the retainer are usually spot welded together in between each set of balls, it only takes one weak weld to start the failure in progress. Once one weld fails the next ones are under a much higher load and also soon fail, once it starts it all happens pretty quick. I don't know if it can be done, but it almost looks like you could get that bearing out, and a new one in, without pulling the engine or splitting the case. Even if you can get the bearing out, you would need to put the jigsaw puzzle of bearing pieces back together to be sure that all of the parts are accounted for, any one piece that would be left in the transmission and found its way in between 2 gears would be a very bad thing.

Well then Happy Birthday. Hmmmmm A root beer float, I hope you have some to share with the rest of us in chat.............. We wouldn't want to have to send out the to go and investigate the .

I have never heard of this happening, the only thing I can think of is it was a defective bearing. Can you get pictures of the bearing and pieces that came out? Are you sure it is the bearing and not something else coming apart?

I will certainly do that.

You do fill the forks on the bike. BUT! The way I was taught was to have the fork fully compressed, with the spring out, and you fill to a level from the top. Hopefully someone here knows of a volumetric number that you can put in to be close enough. You will probably want to refill both sides just to be sure they both have the same amount of the same oil.

I have that same bleeder, sure make bleeding easier. Glad you got er done.

Looks like we had a party pooper that forgot to show up. We ate all the hot dogs without you. But I'll bet we can find more................ ...............and we will eat those too without you if you fail again.

Careful Puc, you could run into some that has had a burst of ambition AND a shot of cold from those Canuks coming in.

So then in addition to checking the bolt as mentioned, Go back to checking post #2 and #5 . I had this issue when I first got my bike and was able to solve it just by playing with front and rear air pressures in the shocks and tire pressure. Just for giggles, also check to be sure that you have the recommended tire sizes installed.

Is it possible to reroute the cables to allow full steering and full throttle? Not that you would ever need them both at the same time but still. Oh by the way, your 1st gen felt faster cuz it is.......................

That is why I make 2 copies one stored off site. The odds of 2 places both burning or being destroyed is really slim. If one is destroyed it only takes a few minutes to copy the surviving one. A second copy is also a LOT less expensive than a really good fire safe.

What Bob said. and The front springs will die of old age not miles, those springs may well be toast. @cowpuc does a good job of explaining how to check this.

First off, welcome to the forum. It is always helpful to mention the bike that you are working on, Saves us from have to figure it out. As far as being worn out, unless it was abused and not maintained, 91K is no where near worn out for this engine. There are some members here with over 200K and even a few with 300K. The 83,84 and some of the 85s have an issue with 2nd gear going out due to a thrust washer that is not properly hardened. To fix this requires that you split the case. This could be a reason for all of the red sealant that you see. You do not need to pull the top end apart to fix the 2nd gear issue, so if that is what was done then the cams should not have been touched. As long as you have the valve covers off, check the valve clearance to adjust if needed. The way this engine works is the clearance gets tighter with wear until it gets to zero and the valve will no longer close. You mentioned that you had spark only on #3 . I would start looking there. You can disassemble the spark plug caps and inside there is a resistor, this is known to get corroded and block the spark. clean up all the parts and retest for spark. As for your cam timing issue, I have to go back and reread what you wrote a couple more times to fully understand what you are seeing.

Glad you got it fixed. Hands on can do in an hour what would take days of step by step in a forum.

Is that why just to celebrate you sent us another blast of cold air? @cowpuc aint gonna be happy about more cold air, he knows what happens when I get cold.........

So sorry to hear of this, I wish there were something I could do to help out. Eck I have also done that, except that I made 2 copies, one that is in the fire safe at home and another that is stored with someone I trust off site, just incase that tornado or fire happens when I am not home. As a note, most fire safes are rated to keep paper from burning for 20 minutes in a fire. That means that the inside temp will stay under 350°F for 20 minutes in a house fire. Your thumb drive will melt long before paper burns. Here is some good reading on fire safe ratings. http://www.deansafe.com/fire-ratings-in-home-safes-and-gun-safes.html

We need Video......

Interesting. Even the ad says the same issue that everyone has when attempting to run a car carburetor on a venture. The flat spot on acceleration.

Yup, I looked at the diagrams and my poor old brain was all messed up. Ignore what I said about taking it apart. The spline on the front of the shaft still needs to be greased though.

I was sure that the U joint came out with my drive shaft, when I last changed tires. But then it was a few years ago and I do suffer from CRS.

Hmmmmm If the starter spins and NONE of the little gears move, did you put that first one in upside down or switch the two idlers positions. You should be able to look at the pinion on the starter and see if it is engaging the first little gear. It has been don that the flywheel was not lined up on the key way and that will cause it to not seat down fully. Double check that to. It is not good for the gears to spin the starter with the side cover off. They are only supported on one side. You can bump the starter a few times just to be sure it is all moving.