Flyinfool

The progressives may look like they are to stiff, but there are many many of us that have put them in and I can not recall anyone saying they were to stiff. The progressives are progressively wound. Progressive means that the coil spacing is tighter on one end than the other and the pitch changes progressively from one end to the other, as in no two coils have the same pitch. The OEM springs are 2 stage, one end is wound tight then makes a sudden chance to a looser wind, so there are only 2 spring rates. Back when our scoots were built, CNC winders to do progressive were just being invented.

As Bob said, it is normal for the 83-85 to read in the red at stops, and close to the red all the time. Its just the way they calibrated the gauge. As long as the fan is cycling on and off while stopped, you are good.

So does that bring back some confidence since it is really not the bikes fault? A little nail in the center of the tire is not cause for a new tire. Unless it tore a bunch of the belting I would put in a T patch and forget about it. It looks like that tire has a lot of miles left on it. FWIW I put a very powerful N52 magnet on the bottom of my bike to help trip a certain traffic light that I frequent. I don't know how many nails I have pulled off that magnet, I figure everyone of them was looking for my back tire.

I think that was in the title. MISSED a golden opportunity.

There was a lot of activity across the street from my office window yesterday. There were barricades all over, police cars all over blocking the road from both ends lots of people milling around, even a concession stand. I found out today that it was a crew from the Harley factory doing a photo shoot of the new yet to be released bikes. They kept the bikes covered with very loose fitting tarps so that you could not even tell it was a bike underneath. They then pushed the tarped bike into position and pulled the tarp, did a quick dusting off, took the pics, and got the tarp back on as quick as possible. Talk about a golden opportunity to get some early spy photos. I wonder what spy photos are worth.........................

The first part is still always to crawl under to take a look and figure out what happened.

I guess you will hae to UPGRADE to a 1st gen to pull them................... Look at all the farkl......I mean safety chrome you would get to do again........................

So then what would it take to be able to pull the wave runners behind the bike. Ya they are a bit heavy, but I have seen some pretty heavy trailers behind bikes.............. Add some trailer brakes so you can stop without getting run over, the power is already there................ Just some more food for thought.................... Now can ride both the bike and runners.......................

Like mini apes..............

At the rate you have been going?........................ :rotf:

The Wing can be stagnant. It really has no competition right now, why pour a bunch of money into a redesign when you already own the market with nothing even close to comparable.

As for putting it on. MAYBE, if you were to screw some threaded rod into the 4 holes that hold those retainer clips, and then get a flat plat of steel with a hole pattern to match and a center hole just big enough for the shaft you could then progressively tighten those 4 nuts on the threaded rods to pull the bearing into place.

The term condenser is the original term from WAY back in the olden days, The modern term for that same component is capacitor. There are some other countries that still use the term condenser. If you go into your local auto parts store, it is usually old folks that would be looking for points and condenser so they still call it that, I guess mostly out of habit.

I wonder if the new manglement will keep the same menu, I was looking forward to trying some of their stupidly hot wings.

If I were doing this at my home I would disassemble the bearing to get the balls and outer race out of the way and then be able take measurements to make on the lathe, a puller cup that would grab the inner race by the ball groove then use a bearing puller to pull it off, this would put zero pressure on any other components. For installing all I can think of is to make a tool that will put equal pressure on both the inner and outer races of the new bearing and then gently tap it on with a hammer. OUCH, did I just say hammer and bearing in the same sentence?????

OK, Just thinking out loud here. Hopefully @ChurchBuilder and @yamagrl with their open parts can answer this. For removal; Loosen the case bolts in the area of the bearing, since the sheet metal ball cage is already broke, rip the rest of it out, slide all of the balls to one side of the bearing, you should then be able to get the outer race and balls out of the bore. Now you will have more access to pull the inner race off the shaft. From the above discussion it is my understanding that it is pressed onto the shaft. The part that worries me. What is taking the thrust load while you are pulling the press fit inner race off the shaft? Same for pressing the new bearing back onto the shaft? Is all of that load on the bearing that is on the other end of the shaft? A high side load can ruin a ball bearing. Is there some other part that will be getting a huge side load that was not designed for a huge side load? Something like a shift linkage, or small aluminum lip on the crankcase? Remember this will be pulling for removal and pushing for install. Not trying to discourage you, but trying to see all of the variables before something else gets broke. You also still need to be sure that there are no bits of the old ball retainer floating around in the trany, any bit of metal that finds its way between 2 gears under load can do a LOT of damage in just a split second.

So did you figure this one out yet?

On our local news it looks like some of the 90,000 displaced people will be coming to the Milwaukee Wisconsin area for temp shelter. We have a large shelter that has been used for other natural disaster escapees. As always seems to be the case after disasters, many decide to stay here permanently. For those that end up here, Welcome to Americas DairyLand.

Careful, You keep talking about 2 tracking and scenic all at the same time, and you are liable to have some @Cowpuc show up in your back yard. Yes I am jealous sitting here chained to my desk all day.

And some of the real Mouthkateer apprentices still have pretty low post counts.

The tach drive is before the coils so it points to something other than the coils. If you do have access to a known good TCI, Then it is easy to swap in the new one for testing. The wires are long enough to put the new one on top of the air cleaner. Getting the old one out is a bear, It is common to relocate the TCI to a more friendly location, The factory was nice enough to make the wires plenty long for a lot of places to put the TCI.

That was gonna be my next question; Is this a realistic project to do at Dons MD? When you did yours at Squidleys, Did you take the whole front end apart in pieces, or pull it as one big assembly?

I have decided it is time. I finally found a smooth enough section of road to be able to feel the notchyness in the bearings. And I did not like it. This is also likely the reason that the bike feels very unstable in a sweeping turn. So my first round of questions are; 1. The service manual says to remove the front wheel, fender, brace and fork tubes. Is this really necessary or can this all be removed as an assembly and reinstalled as an assembly? I realize it will be heavy. 2. I plan to replace the stock springs with progressives at the same time. This will allow the front wheel to be on the ground and the suspension to easily compress to get the head apart, I think? Thoughts? 3. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the head for a grease Zerk while I am in there, Yes it takes a lot of grease the first time to fill the neck, but it will make future greasing a LOT easier. Opinions? 4. I do not have a lift nor do I have room for a lift in my little shed. Is it realistic to do this on the center stand? 5. Does anyone know where that nice safe place is that I put my special spanner for torquing the nuts for the bearing preload...............

I have read a few posts of using 12.5wt oil as the magic bullet. When I do my springs I plan to mix a quart of 15 and 10 together to get the 12.5. I am also planning to install the anti dive block off plates. While you were doing all of this did you also do the steering head bearings? I just decided that I need to add them to my list.

On Saturday May 7th I saw a black RSTD with a female DRIVER, wearing a pink helmet and pink back pack and black jacket. Headed east on Layton Ave going into Cudahy WI. Anyone we know here?