Flyinfool

I wonder if the new manglement will keep the same menu, I was looking forward to trying some of their stupidly hot wings.

If I were doing this at my home I would disassemble the bearing to get the balls and outer race out of the way and then be able take measurements to make on the lathe, a puller cup that would grab the inner race by the ball groove then use a bearing puller to pull it off, this would put zero pressure on any other components. For installing all I can think of is to make a tool that will put equal pressure on both the inner and outer races of the new bearing and then gently tap it on with a hammer. OUCH, did I just say hammer and bearing in the same sentence?????

OK, Just thinking out loud here. Hopefully @ChurchBuilder and @yamagrl with their open parts can answer this. For removal; Loosen the case bolts in the area of the bearing, since the sheet metal ball cage is already broke, rip the rest of it out, slide all of the balls to one side of the bearing, you should then be able to get the outer race and balls out of the bore. Now you will have more access to pull the inner race off the shaft. From the above discussion it is my understanding that it is pressed onto the shaft. The part that worries me. What is taking the thrust load while you are pulling the press fit inner race off the shaft? Same for pressing the new bearing back onto the shaft? Is all of that load on the bearing that is on the other end of the shaft? A high side load can ruin a ball bearing. Is there some other part that will be getting a huge side load that was not designed for a huge side load? Something like a shift linkage, or small aluminum lip on the crankcase? Remember this will be pulling for removal and pushing for install. Not trying to discourage you, but trying to see all of the variables before something else gets broke. You also still need to be sure that there are no bits of the old ball retainer floating around in the trany, any bit of metal that finds its way between 2 gears under load can do a LOT of damage in just a split second.

So did you figure this one out yet?

On our local news it looks like some of the 90,000 displaced people will be coming to the Milwaukee Wisconsin area for temp shelter. We have a large shelter that has been used for other natural disaster escapees. As always seems to be the case after disasters, many decide to stay here permanently. For those that end up here, Welcome to Americas DairyLand.

Careful, You keep talking about 2 tracking and scenic all at the same time, and you are liable to have some @Cowpuc show up in your back yard. Yes I am jealous sitting here chained to my desk all day.

And some of the real Mouthkateer apprentices still have pretty low post counts.

The tach drive is before the coils so it points to something other than the coils. If you do have access to a known good TCI, Then it is easy to swap in the new one for testing. The wires are long enough to put the new one on top of the air cleaner. Getting the old one out is a bear, It is common to relocate the TCI to a more friendly location, The factory was nice enough to make the wires plenty long for a lot of places to put the TCI.

That was gonna be my next question; Is this a realistic project to do at Dons MD? When you did yours at Squidleys, Did you take the whole front end apart in pieces, or pull it as one big assembly?

I have decided it is time. I finally found a smooth enough section of road to be able to feel the notchyness in the bearings. And I did not like it. This is also likely the reason that the bike feels very unstable in a sweeping turn. So my first round of questions are; 1. The service manual says to remove the front wheel, fender, brace and fork tubes. Is this really necessary or can this all be removed as an assembly and reinstalled as an assembly? I realize it will be heavy. 2. I plan to replace the stock springs with progressives at the same time. This will allow the front wheel to be on the ground and the suspension to easily compress to get the head apart, I think? Thoughts? 3. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the head for a grease Zerk while I am in there, Yes it takes a lot of grease the first time to fill the neck, but it will make future greasing a LOT easier. Opinions? 4. I do not have a lift nor do I have room for a lift in my little shed. Is it realistic to do this on the center stand? 5. Does anyone know where that nice safe place is that I put my special spanner for torquing the nuts for the bearing preload...............

I have read a few posts of using 12.5wt oil as the magic bullet. When I do my springs I plan to mix a quart of 15 and 10 together to get the 12.5. I am also planning to install the anti dive block off plates. While you were doing all of this did you also do the steering head bearings? I just decided that I need to add them to my list.

On Saturday May 7th I saw a black RSTD with a female DRIVER, wearing a pink helmet and pink back pack and black jacket. Headed east on Layton Ave going into Cudahy WI. Anyone we know here?

When I needed paint for my 88 I just took a saddle bag lid to the local place that mixes paint for the auto body shops and they color matched it and mixed up a pint. There is a good chance that the original paint may have faded a bit and that getting the "correct" color may not match exactly.

As Yamagrl said, the tach is the giveaway. The tach is driven from the signal that goes to the #2 ignition coil. The act that the tach is not working means that there is no signal being sent to the #2 coil. That is solid proof that you do have a "VOODOO magic" electrical issue. At least is is not fuel and carb, to me that is the VOODOO area. Electrical is easy you can test most things. As mentioned start by making sure all of the connectors in the ignition circuits are clean and free of any corrosion.

I'm already there, All Alone............................. Waiting for my Pizza to show up.

Even if it is welded it is still removable, with the right tools.

2nd gens need more light in the rear so the 1st gens don't run them over. So far i have 538 LEDs and I still have over 1000 more to mount, somewhere. No such thing as too many, UNLESS, you have them arranged or set up in a way that could confuse the driver looking at them. If some one is not sure of what your intentions are they may guess wrong and take you out even though they can see you.

I have never been in there, I was just looking at the pictures posted here. that is why I said I don't know if it can be done. If you start to loosen that nut and retaining clips and the bearing is following them out, STOP, or that big spring is gonna get ya.

I did back of after that one tank at that speed. It was a 35 gusting to 50 head wind that fortunately was exactly straight head on, so at least it was not blowing me all over the road. As for your Daughter learning about DQs............... I can be bribed................

Dang:mo money:

And then there are the MBC riders (Marshmallow Butt Club) like myself that will not do more than 100 miles at a stretch. So 1000 miles will have at least 10 stops almost regardless of speed. 2 years ago I did have one stretch while in a hurry to get home I had the cruise set at 80 on the interstate with a good headwind and was down to 18 MPG for that tank. That tank did not even make my 100 mile limit I NEEDED gas after just 80 miles so add in 3 more gas stops bringing it up to 13 gas stops to go 1000 miles at 80 with a headwind. Even though I slowed down I still stopped about every 100 miles or less. Note in Indiana there is a DQ in every rest stop so I have to stop every 32 miles.........

I did send a note to Freebird that Randys thread on how he fixed his broken frame may a good candidate to get its pictures restored.

Here is another one I see came up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1521-83-Broken-frame Thanks

Silly question time. Do you have a GOOD soft copper crush washer on the bottom middle gear cover bolt? My first step in tracking an oil leak is always to start with a good cleaning. I use Gunk Engine Degreaser, Original, unless it is really bad then I use the Heavy Duty or the Gel. Use a chip brush or old paint brush to work the degreaser in good and loosen the thicker dirt.

So offer him $500 with 5 nice $100 bills in your hand. Depending of course on the condition of the bike. Some times you just never know how bad they want it to go away.