Flyinfool

Any good auto paint supplier can do a color match while you wait. A color match will match also match any fading that has happened over the last 30 years, color rite type places will match the factory spec which may no longer match the rest of the paint.

Did you by chance bump the kill switch, you would not be the first.

My rear is wonderful, pads are good, I aint touching it.I can just barely get it to lock if I really make an effort at it. My front has a single line down from the master, that goes to a V-Max splitter and then 2 lines down from there. A 16mm master is a lot less money than the R1/R6 calipers. Even if I do go with the R1/R6 calipers I still need a new master, I think the badly pitted master is a big part of my issue. It seems that I did get some air into the master while the bars were hanging upside down during the steering bearing job. I bled the system at the master banjo bolt after it sat for 24 hours so all of the air could float up to that point. I then bled the whole system normally. The front brake is at least now back to where it was, not great but rideable. I still want to get it better.

Now that is one of the best epic battle stories yet. Hope you feel better soon.

Maybe we can both head up there and triple team it. I can pack my favorite BFH. I also have a puller that has successfully pulled that flywheel. who knows what some flying ability will add to the conversation..........

Man, If you were just a tad closer and/or I did not have to work all week..................... My first opportunity to get up there will not be until the first weekend in June so if you do not have it solved by then.................

OK I had a thought last night. Yea I know, me having thoughts is usually a dangerous thing.................. While working on the steering bearings I may have had the Master cylinder sitting upside down while draped over the side of the bike. this could have let air into the pump chamber of the master. Tonight when I get home I will bleed the master to see if that may be the case. Even if that is the case and it gets me back to where I was, that is still just ok brakes not great brakes. The stock master on the MKIs is a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) bore, the stock master on a MKII is 14mm (9/16 inch) bore. That 14mm bore was designed to operate just the right caliper. So I am thinking that going to a 16mm (5/8 inch) bore like what is used on some bikes with dual front calipers might just work better.

Also the middle gear cover has to come off first. As Marcarl mentioned make sure you have all the screws out, some are good at hiding and even a bit tricky to get to. And yes, Pictures always help us. Once you get the bike running you will understand why we love them so much and put up their issues. I don't think there is a bike made that does not have its issues.

I agree that the oil and heat are not related.

I have an 88 so it did have that bleed point. But since I have delinked The high point is gone comepleely.

Yup, now you got no excuses for not going to MD. Better get over to the calendar and change to a yes + 1.

How can you be trouble Mama. I already have that name................

I thought of this thread as I was doing my test ride today. went by a semi that was weaving all over and driving 10 under the speed limit. as I went by I could see he had both hands off the wheel with just his wrists resting on the top of the wheel cuz both hands were busy texting away.

Pull your radiator cap and see if the radiator is actually full, A bad cap can have coolant in the overflow bottle and an empty radiator. How old is your antifreeze? Possibly a bad thermostat? Is the radiator clean to allow good airflow? Does a 2nd gen have a drain valve like the first gens?

I definitely need better front brakes. I did the delink and had better braking power before the delink. I have SS lines. Very fresh Dot 4 fluid. HH pads. Stock calipers and Master. I did rebuild the master as best I could but there was some very deep pitting at the bottom of the stroke that I could not hone completely out. I did not rebuild the calipers but they were working perfectly at the time if the delink. It feels to me like there is still some air in the system, but I have bled every which way there is and and then some. I can easily pull the lever all the way to touch the grip and that only gives me moderate stopping power. The bleeding tricks I have tried; normal bleeding with the pump bleed tighten release. vacuum bleeding buy pulling a vacuum at the bleeder. pressure bleeding buy using pressure to force fluid backwards thru the system. bleeding at each banjo bolt. bleeding with the bike almost laying on its left side. bleeding with the bike almost laying on the right side. bleeding on the center stand bleeding on the side stand wheel turned right wheel turned left wheel straight tying the lever back overnight. Dot 3 fluid dot 4 fluid. AND many combinations of the above. I have pumped 3 QUARTS of break fluid thru trying to find that last air bubble. OR what did I miss. I am at a point of starting over? I have tried 2 different masters and they were both just as pitted as my original one. I am thinking of getting a NEW 16mm master and a set of R1 calipers. The new SS lines should be fine. I will try the new 16mm master first. I need to get this figured out before MD. There is no way that these brakes are going to stop in a reasonable distance once I attach the trailer.

Well it is all done and back together. I went for a short test run and ended up visiting a friend 150 miles away..................... I should have done this years ago. The bearing replacement its self was not so bad, it was all of the "as long as I'm in there"s that killed me. The steering has not felt like this since I bought the bike back in 06. I have always felt like I was fighting with it at interstate speeds. Today I hit 90 a few times without even realizing it, and the first clue was that I was wondering why everyone else was going so slow................ There was no wandering, no shimmy, no shaking, and best of all no locking up, just tracked smooth as could be. I will have to attempt to either bend the handlebar back where is belongs or replace them, it feels weird having the bars turned to go straight. I am not even sure which one is straight and which one is bent but there was no combination of splines to get it right. I also changed the front springs to the progressives, I used the full 1.25 inch spacers that came with the springs and put in 7lbs of air. It raised the front of the bike about 1.5 inches. I have 12.5W oil filled to 5.5 inches from the top, measured very accurately. The ride is softer than the stock springs. Stock springs are 18.2 inches long new with a wear limit of 18 inches, mine measured 17.75 inches. I did leave the Anti Dive unhooked, and am going to hook it back up and try it again. I though the front had more dive than I like, and now has a lot more dive than the stock setup did. But the smoothness of the steering is just amazing, the steering has not moved this free in forever. Yet there is zero slop. The next thing is to get some better braking power in the front end. AS is not going to be safe pulling a trailer to MD. But that is another thread.

You must have missed me by seconds, I was there for about an hour and 9:45 is right about the time i gave up and went to take a shower and head for bed. I will be in tonight. Got even more news..........................

Or an old pair of @BigToms underwear. But then it ain't red..................

Where is it leaking from? The common leaks are; 1. Where the wires come out thru the rubber plug. 2. Leaving out the copper crush washer on the bottom bolt of the middle gear cover. 3. Not doing a good job of cleaning all of the old gasket off of all four gasket surfaces before reassembly.

How wide is it? I think it is way to big for you to tow. You should bring it up here and I will trade you for a smaller more appropriate sized trailer. I'll even come down there and pick it up for you and deliver the more appropriate trailer......................

I will be in there fora bit, I even have some news....................

Who would ever say "While you are in there........"

:sign yeah that: There is an upgraded segment available that will not loose its pins.

I would get a real volt meter directly across the battery terminals. Dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate.

Also when you first start it up, check all of the exhaust pipes at the head to see if they are all heating up at the same rate. These bike still run pretty smooth on 3 cylinders.